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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 9/7/2010 6:30:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2010 6:32:43 PM EDT by offctr]
Been a loooong time since I had these off. Anyways both drums are rusted cracked and probably OEM(92) did shoes a couple of years ago but still have very little rear brake action. Have a new rear ABS valve on the way too since the one on there now is shot.
anyway once I get the nuts cones and axle shaft out.
this:

then can pull the axle nut and outter bearing etc then this should come off after backing out the adjuster if need be.

after that my question regards the plate and lug studs ––- how does this

attach to this?

does it have to be pressed out ? and back in? or is it floating on its own?
what really sucks about this is this ...


we cant make these in the US anymore???




As I said I had these off a few years ago and did shoes and e-brake issues but dont remember how the lug studs and that plate were attached
Link Posted: 9/7/2010 6:52:02 PM EDT
Is this a single rear wheel truck?

If so, that might just be a spacer to widen the track of your rear wheels.

I think that plate is simple held in place with the pressure from the lug nuts. Once they're torqued, it can't go anywhere. It might appear to be attached because of the rust.
Link Posted: 9/7/2010 6:56:39 PM EDT
Yep single rear ––I guess duallys were an option with 2wd this is a 93 dodge CTD 4wd with the 4500lb front 3500lb rear axle.
Link Posted: 9/8/2010 7:41:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/8/2010 7:55:07 AM EDT by bigrob88]


comes apart similar to a disc brake front
pull the bolts holding that cap
then spindle nut bearings etc. the drum and all should slide off

pull that whole assembly off....good luck im sure the shoes are froze on those drums
the studs are holding the drum to the spindle assembly knock them out and there you go
If it was me I would go ahead and use new studs when putting it back together

in the video just past the minute mark these rednecks show you how its held together lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqr_DnGkFEs&p=2CB1987F06D9487F&playnext=1&index=13
Link Posted: 9/8/2010 7:18:36 PM EDT
I dont think the shoes are frozen from the back they look alot better inside if anything they wernt making any contact at all plus with the radial crack in each drum ...I was able to back out the self adjusters no problem.... anyways I put it off to sat so for now I am gonna soak the studs in penetrating oil and order 16 new studs and nuts if they dont come right out I'll just torch em and save the one plate that sits outside the drum ––-it looks as if the stds are pressed through from the back if it but they gotta come through the drum too or there would be no mechanical connection and the drum and the hub would spin independant of each other.
Link Posted: 9/8/2010 9:24:31 PM EDT
Remove axle shaft... 8 smaller bolts in the center.
use the big socket AKA spindle nut wrench, to remove the lock nuts, and then the drum and hub remove as unit.
clean up and inspect the bearings HAVE a new inner wheel seal ( oil seal) before you begin this job... always replace the wheel seal when servicing the bearings.
Dont know if you had the truck NEW, but it never had much rear brakes, even new and perfect, they where ( and are) the worst brakes on ANY modern vehicle that I am aware of, very nearly 1940's technology, and on a 7000 pound vehicle, capable of 85 miles per hour, it is a wonder that these trucks were even street legal when new.
And yes, I own a 1993 model, with the cummins and dana 70 rear, put a detroit locker in it, and it has 260,000 miles, stock original engine, trans , clutch, and real shitty drum brakes.
... I still love my dodge truck, might even put disc brakes on it one day, probably wait till he body is finished RUSTING off the frame.
Link Posted: 9/9/2010 2:35:48 PM EDT
I have the new seal JIC and I agree with you no matter what it went though pads left and right ––the rears never really seemed to do much. with new lines. cylinders the ABS valve and all new drums and hardware I hope to maybe bring them up to marginal
on mine the body was rotting off the frame I just finished preping a new cab to go on and was trying to find a bed but unless I want to ship one from TX its not going to happen. The transfer case was rebuilt while I am doing the body and the driveshafts got new u-joints. So all the sub systems are being re-newed to get me another year or two out of the truck ––I just dont want to buy a new truck right now witth the economy the way it is and wont give GM/Dodge/UAW any money since the bailout and wont buy another ford after the 550 super duty debacle.
The truck does duty as my plow truck in the winter and hunting camp truck in the fall as well as my heavy transport to shoots and camping trips its pushing 289000miles and still starts at the first crank of the starter AND gets really decent mileage even towing.
this is after I took the 205 out and got it redone (2wd would pop out of gear all the time)

this is the cab after paint and getting the airbox back in

after the Np205 went back in (much easier from above than below! and the frame cleaned up and painted and wiring harness re-done and secured.


If I can get these brakes done and the cab back on this weekend I might make the FALfiles shoot in Somerset on the 25th/26th
Link Posted: 9/9/2010 6:55:45 PM EDT
you will need to use a brass drift and knock all the wheel studs out the back, pull the hub off the front of the drum, and knock the studs back into the rear of the new rotor/old hub assembly, if any studs go in too easy, replace as needed
Link Posted: 9/9/2010 7:28:55 PM EDT
Is it easier if I twist the nuts on almost flush with the end of the stud and use a shop press to push em out ? I suppose it dosent matter with the old ones as long as the spacer and hub are not damaged getting them out––right? The lug studs are probably the cheapest part of this CF so far.
Link Posted: 9/10/2010 9:22:52 AM EDT
you can use a press but will eat up time pressing them out.
smack them with a big hammer and they will come out no problem
Link Posted: 9/12/2010 3:09:41 PM EDT
If your doing the drums just spend the money on new studs.
Link Posted: 9/16/2010 9:20:06 AM EDT
Originally Posted By offctr:
Been a loooong time since I had these off. Anyways both drums are rusted cracked and probably OEM(92) did shoes a couple of years ago but still have very little rear brake action. Have a new rear ABS valve on the way too since the one on there now is shot.
anyway once I get the nuts cones and axle shaft out.
this:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/offctr/Jeep%20pics/IMG_1052.jpg
then can pull the axle nut and outter bearing etc then this should come off after backing out the adjuster if need be.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/offctr/Jeep%20pics/IMG_1053.jpg
after that my question regards the plate and lug studs ––- how does this
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/offctr/Jeep%20pics/IMG_1054.jpg
attach to this?
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/offctr/Jeep%20pics/IMG_1055.jpg
does it have to be pressed out ? and back in? or is it floating on its own?
what really sucks about this is this ...
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/offctr/Jeep%20pics/IMG_1057.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/offctr/Jeep%20pics/IMG_1056.jpg
we cant make these in the US anymore???




As I said I had these off a few years ago and did shoes and e-brake issues but dont remember how the lug studs and that plate were attached


Gotta love the rust associated with vehicles here in PA! As soon as I saw Dana 70, I thought, "probably a 90's CTD", and I was right. Seems like a cool truck. Got any other pictures?

What part of the state you in? I see you mentioned Somerset, I'm about 45-60 minutes east/NE of there.
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