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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:20:00 PM EDT
Sheared a lug on the barrel nut...used a torch to burn off any Loctite that might be on it. Put the torch on it for a good minute and a half. You could see and smell smoke as if Loctite was being burnt off. Damn thing still wouldn't budge. Now I have it in a deep freezer that is about 0 degrees, I'm going to leave it in there for 7 hours and try again. If that doesn't do it then maybe it has rockset?
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:21:58 PM EDT
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:24:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/2/2015 9:31:26 PM EDT by FLchuck8]
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Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.
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This. As far as I know DPMS just torques on the barrel nut. Freeze/Thaw will likely solve it when you hit the nut again with heat.

Edit - when you say you sheared it, do you have the correct tool?
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:25:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/2/2015 9:26:45 PM EDT by Target556x45mm]
Do what I did when I couldn't get a stubborn barrel nut off my RRA.



























Take it to someone who knows WTF their doing.
Seriously, torquing on an upper is bag juju.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:25:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/2/2015 9:26:48 PM EDT by leatherface_y2k]
Good taps around the circumference with a ball peen hammer.

Eta.. and Kroil
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:36:55 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By FLchuck8:


This. As far as I know DPMS just torques on the barrel nut. Freeze/Thaw will likely solve it when you hit the nut again with heat.

Edit - when you say you sheared it, do you have the correct tool?
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Originally Posted By FLchuck8:
Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.


This. As far as I know DPMS just torques on the barrel nut. Freeze/Thaw will likely solve it when you hit the nut again with heat.

Edit - when you say you sheared it, do you have the correct tool?



Yes, I have the correct barrel nut wrench. I will try again about 0400, by then it will be in the deep freezer for 7 hours. I have never had a barrel nut this damn hard to get loose. No wonder I hate DPMS....
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:47:43 PM EDT
Get your nut off yet OP?
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:47:58 PM EDT
Righty tighty lefty loosey?
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:50:16 PM EDT
If you torch on it too long you will melt the upper.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:52:38 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By KaiK:
If you torch on it too long you will melt the upper.
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That too. I would use a heat gun, not a torch.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 9:55:27 PM EDT
Freeze it, then hit barrel but with torch.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 10:06:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/2/2015 10:06:37 PM EDT by rabidus]
50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Soak it. Wait a day.

If that does not work.

I had my neighbor help get mine off last month. He took a dremel, cut slots into the barrel nut. Did not hit the upper receiver threads!

Impressive Marine.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 10:13:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/2/2015 10:14:08 PM EDT by anesvick]
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Originally Posted By rabidus:
50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Soak it. Wait a day.

If that does not work.

I had my neighbor help get mine off last month. He took a dremel, cut slots into the barrel nut. Did not hit the upper receiver threads!

Impressive Marine.
View Quote
The cool thing about this method is that you don't even have to get near the threads. If you cut about 3/4 through the nut and then hit it with a hammer and chisel in the cut, the shock will usually break the barrel nut. Once cracked, it should spin off.

I've had to do this to a few DPMS uppers. Same method works on pressed on wheel bearings.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 10:17:38 PM EDT
When it doubt, get this out



Link Posted: 5/2/2015 10:21:26 PM EDT
That doesn't sounds good, 30lbs of torque shouldn't be anymore then a slight bump.

I'd say heat it up, and use a 36" pipe wrench, no way its going to hold with that. You're going to chew the barrel nut up but it will be covered regardless or you can simply buy another.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 10:24:33 PM EDT
At least it wasn't hand tight. I sold a friend an upper that I bought 7 years ago or so (before PSA was on the scene, lol) because I didn't shoot it much. He brought it to me with one of those punisher dust covers and asked me to help him install it. I took the gas tube out of the upper and noticed the barrel nut turn as I was slipping the USGI barrel nut wrench in place!

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 10:36:29 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.
View Quote


Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice.

Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 11:10:14 PM EDT
Dremel that 10 buck nut, what's you're time worth
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 11:11:00 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By BigJayA:
Get your nut off yet OP?
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Giggity
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 11:16:30 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By saigamanTX:
Giggity
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Originally Posted By saigamanTX:
Originally Posted By BigJayA:
Get your nut off yet OP?
Giggity

It does suck when you can't bust a nut.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:27:44 AM EDT
I should have said the upper was in a action block and vice. That damn thing is on there good! I have a few hours more in the freezer and if that doesn't work I will soak it in acetone and tranny fluid.Did I mention that I hate DPMS? I would have told the friend not to buy it had he told me he was getting one...
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:35:10 AM EDT
If I recall correctly 60-90 pounds is standard torque value for installing one. Did you measure how much you were applying?
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:38:49 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Tech-Com:
If I recall correctly 60-90 pounds is standard torque value for installing one. Did you measure how much you were applying?
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30-80 ft lbs


Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:44:44 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By leatherface_y2k:
Good taps around the circumference with a ball peen hammer.

Eta.. and Kroil
View Quote


Coming here to say Kroil it too.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:57:21 AM EDT
Did you take off your gas tube yet?
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 1:03:22 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By AllserviceBilliards:


Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice.

Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat.
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Originally Posted By AllserviceBilliards:
Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.


Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice.

Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat.


Lol. Not sure if serious...
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 5:15:35 AM EDT
Freezing it worked, it didn't take much to get it off. Lesson learned. ...
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 5:29:19 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By AllserviceBilliards:


Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice.

Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat.
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Originally Posted By AllserviceBilliards:
Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.


Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice.

Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat.



This.

Clamshell receiver block is far more stable and less likely to damage the components.

As the nut is toast anyway, just get a pipe wrench and use your man hands to crank the nut off. Use a cheater bar if you need to.

Easy.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 5:48:13 AM EDT
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.

A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 6:59:33 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By snaggletoof:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.

A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod.
View Quote

Reaction Rod is for muzzle device installation.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 7:08:34 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By snaggletoof:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.

A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod.
View Quote

Barrel vise is the proper way, I've had more then one build where the barrel nut needed 70+ ft/lbs for the nut to index properly.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 8:35:58 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By snaggletoof:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.

A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod.
View Quote



Reaction rods only exist because of muzzle device installs on guns with rails that cover the barrel.

The technical answer is a barrel vice.

The next best solution is a clamshell for the receiver.

The worst solution is a reaction rod that transfers 100% of the stress to the index pin. There are examples of that pin breaking, shifting, or otherwise allowing the barrel extension to move.

Reaction rods are a bad piece of kit.

Link Posted: 5/3/2015 8:46:41 AM EDT
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 8:52:12 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By snaggletoof:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.

A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod.
View Quote


there are a few professional builders on this site who say exactly what everyone else is saying.

a block for barrels, reaction rods for muzzle devices.

Yes, I have both
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 8:59:28 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By katrina24:
Dremel that 10 buck nut, what's you're time worth
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This.

Cut groves In it, split it with chisel.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 9:24:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/3/2015 9:27:30 AM EDT by brifol6111]
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Originally Posted By Sylvan:


there are a few professional builders on this site who say exactly what everyone else is saying.

a block for barrels, reaction rods for muzzle devices.

Yes, I have both
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Originally Posted By Sylvan:
Originally Posted By snaggletoof:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.

A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod.


there are a few professional builders on this site who say exactly what everyone else is saying.

a block for barrels, reaction rods for muzzle devices.

Yes, I have both


MAGPUL's BEV Block is the best of both worlds, locks the barrel extension while also locking in on the receiver's front lug and uses a Bolt Carrier to stabilize it all. I have started using one and havent had any issues.

I will also add that I have sheared 1 indexing pin off a barrel and displaced a second with the use of a Reaction rod. I have learned my lesson
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:41:31 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By dogbert4-1:
Did you take off your gas tube yet?
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Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:50:07 AM EDT
Geissele reaction rod will fuck up a upper and barrel if the nut is over torqued.

That's why they modified it to dig into the inside of the upper to hold it if the nut is stuck.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:06:56 PM EDT
The Geissele reaction rod or it's new variant the Super Reaction Rod are acceptable for barrel nuts.

Just make sure to aeroshell/anti-seize the threads and if you're removing the barrel nut, your barrel nut wrench should contact as much surface area of that barrel nut as possible. Distribution of torque to that barrel nut is key. I don't want to transfer torque to the upper receiver's lugs so get something which grabs the barrel extension. They're torqued to 150ft-lbs +/- 5lbs.
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