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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:21:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper.
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:24:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper. This. As far as I know DPMS just torques on the barrel nut. Freeze/Thaw will likely solve it when you hit the nut again with heat. Edit - when you say you sheared it, do you have the correct tool? |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:25:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Do what I did when I couldn't get a stubborn barrel nut off my RRA.
Take it to someone who knows WTF their doing. Seriously, torquing on an upper is bag juju. |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:25:55 PM EDT
[#4]
Good taps around the circumference with a ball peen hammer.
Eta.. and Kroil |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:36:55 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This. As far as I know DPMS just torques on the barrel nut. Freeze/Thaw will likely solve it when you hit the nut again with heat. Edit - when you say you sheared it, do you have the correct tool? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper. This. As far as I know DPMS just torques on the barrel nut. Freeze/Thaw will likely solve it when you hit the nut again with heat. Edit - when you say you sheared it, do you have the correct tool? Yes, I have the correct barrel nut wrench. I will try again about 0400, by then it will be in the deep freezer for 7 hours. I have never had a barrel nut this damn hard to get loose. No wonder I hate DPMS.... 
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:47:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Get your nut off yet OP?
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:47:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Righty tighty lefty loosey?
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:50:16 PM EDT
[#8]
If you torch on it too long you will melt the upper.
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:52:38 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you torch on it too long you will melt the upper. |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 9:55:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Freeze it, then hit barrel but with torch.
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:06:03 PM EDT
[#11]
50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Soak it. Wait a day.
If that does not work. I had my neighbor help get mine off last month. He took a dremel, cut slots into the barrel nut. Did not hit the upper receiver threads! 
Impressive Marine. |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:13:25 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Soak it. Wait a day. If that does not work. I had my neighbor help get mine off last month. He took a dremel, cut slots into the barrel nut. Did not hit the upper receiver threads! Impressive Marine. I've had to do this to a few DPMS uppers. Same method works on pressed on wheel bearings. |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:17:38 PM EDT
[#13]
When it doubt, get this out
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:21:26 PM EDT
[#14]
That doesn't sounds good, 30lbs of torque shouldn't be anymore then a slight bump.
I'd say heat it up, and use a 36" pipe wrench, no way its going to hold with that. You're going to chew the barrel nut up but it will be covered regardless or you can simply buy another. |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:24:33 PM EDT
[#15]
At least it wasn't hand tight. I sold a friend an upper that I bought 7 years ago or so (before PSA was on the scene, lol) because I didn't shoot it much. He brought it to me with one of those punisher dust covers and asked me to help him install it. I took the gas tube out of the upper and noticed the barrel nut turn as I was slipping the USGI barrel nut wrench in place!
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 10:36:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper. Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice. Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat. |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 11:10:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Dremel that 10 buck nut, what's you're time worth
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Posted: 5/2/2015 11:11:00 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Get your nut off yet OP? |
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Posted: 5/2/2015 11:16:30 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Giggity Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Get your nut off yet OP? It does suck when you can't bust a nut. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:27:44 AM EDT
[#20]
I should have said the upper was in a action block and vice. That damn thing is on there good! I have a few hours more in the freezer and if that doesn't work I will soak it in acetone and tranny fluid.Did I mention that I hate DPMS? I would have told the friend not to buy it had he told me he was getting one...
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:35:10 AM EDT
[#21]
If I recall correctly 60-90 pounds is standard torque value for installing one. Did you measure how much you were applying?
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:38:49 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If I recall correctly 60-90 pounds is standard torque value for installing one. Did you measure how much you were applying? 30-80 ft lbs |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:44:44 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good taps around the circumference with a ball peen hammer. Eta.. and Kroil Coming here to say Kroil it too. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:57:21 AM EDT
[#24]
Did you take off your gas tube yet?
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Posted: 5/3/2015 1:03:22 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice. Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper. Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice. Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat. Lol. Not sure if serious... 
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Posted: 5/3/2015 5:15:35 AM EDT
[#26]
Freezing it worked, it didn't take much to get it off. Lesson learned. ...
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Posted: 5/3/2015 5:29:19 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice. Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper. Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice. Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat. This. Clamshell receiver block is far more stable and less likely to damage the components. As the nut is toast anyway, just get a pipe wrench and use your man hands to crank the nut off. Use a cheater bar if you need to. Easy. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 5:48:13 AM EDT
[#28]
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit.
A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 6:59:33 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit. A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod. Reaction Rod is for muzzle device installation. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 7:08:34 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit. A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod. Barrel vise is the proper way, I've had more then one build where the barrel nut needed 70+ ft/lbs for the nut to index properly. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 8:35:58 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit. A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod. Reaction rods only exist because of muzzle device installs on guns with rails that cover the barrel. The technical answer is a barrel vice. The next best solution is a clamshell for the receiver. The worst solution is a reaction rod that transfers 100% of the stress to the index pin. There are examples of that pin breaking, shifting, or otherwise allowing the barrel extension to move. Reaction rods are a bad piece of kit. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 8:46:41 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lol. Not sure if serious... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Reaction rod before you jack up the upper. Do not do this. Use a proper action block and insert or a barrel vice. Put the barreled upper in the freezer for 60 min, then fixture it, then apply heat to the barrel nut - remove the nut while applying heat. Lol. Not sure if serious... Serious Either the index pin will shear/damage the threads or you could end up undoing the barrel extn |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 8:52:12 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit. A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod. there are a few professional builders on this site who say exactly what everyone else is saying. a block for barrels, reaction rods for muzzle devices. Yes, I have both |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 8:59:28 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dremel that 10 buck nut, what's you're time worth This. Cut groves In it, split it with chisel. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 9:24:29 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
there are a few professional builders on this site who say exactly what everyone else is saying. a block for barrels, reaction rods for muzzle devices. Yes, I have both Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anyone saying to not use a reaction rod does not know their shit. A reaction rod keeps the torsion of the upper. If you're putting more than 40-50 ft/lbs on the upper, you're doing it wrong. All barrel work I do is with the upper in the reaction rod. there are a few professional builders on this site who say exactly what everyone else is saying. a block for barrels, reaction rods for muzzle devices. Yes, I have both MAGPUL's BEV Block is the best of both worlds, locks the barrel extension while also locking in on the receiver's front lug and uses a Bolt Carrier to stabilize it all. I have started using one and havent had any issues. I will also add that I have sheared 1 indexing pin off a barrel and displaced a second with the use of a Reaction rod. I have learned my lesson |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 11:41:31 AM EDT
[#36]
 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you take off your gas tube yet? |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 11:50:07 AM EDT
[#37]
Geissele reaction rod will fuck up a upper and barrel if the nut is over torqued.
That's why they modified it to dig into the inside of the upper to hold it if the nut is stuck. |
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Posted: 5/3/2015 12:06:56 PM EDT
[#38]
The Geissele reaction rod or it's new variant the Super Reaction Rod are acceptable for barrel nuts.
Just make sure to aeroshell/anti-seize the threads and if you're removing the barrel nut, your barrel nut wrench should contact as much surface area of that barrel nut as possible. Distribution of torque to that barrel nut is key. I don't want to transfer torque to the upper receiver's lugs so get something which grabs the barrel extension. They're torqued to 150ft-lbs +/- 5lbs. |
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