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Posted: 1/8/2015 8:26:11 PM EDT
Has anyone that ordered one received theirs yet?  I ordered mine on 1 Dec 14 and still have yet to see a shipping notice.
 



ETA: I changed the title to suit the way this thread has gone.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 8:36:35 PM EDT
How much coin are those?
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 8:52:00 PM EDT
$150 on the Black Friday sale which is when I ordered mine. Regular price is $189.99 I believe. Still haven't received mine yet.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 8:53:41 PM EDT
Hmmm I want one

It would go good with my others 8)
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 10:30:35 PM EDT
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Quoted:
$150 on the Black Friday sale which is when I ordered mine. Regular price is $189.99 I believe. Still haven't received mine yet.
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Their site says its a 2 week wait or so. You should have gotten it by now if you ordered on Black Friday.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 10:37:25 PM EDT
I cancelled my black Friday order when they moved the shipping date past Jan 1st.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 10:50:29 PM EDT
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Their site says its a 2 week wait or so. You should have gotten it by now if you ordered on Black Friday.
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$150 on the Black Friday sale which is when I ordered mine. Regular price is $189.99 I believe. Still haven't received mine yet.


Their site says its a 2 week wait or so. You should have gotten it by now if you ordered on Black Friday.


It said 30 business days when I ordered, then everybody (I assume) got an email saying it might be even longer, and they'll give us the newer, updated model (bigger screen and I forget what else). It'll be 30 business days next Wed (which I'll email and/or call at that point in time).
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 10:39:26 AM EDT
To speak of the devil, VaporShark just sent me a tracking number this morning. I've had nickel wire of various gauges on hand for a month now just waiting to be built on!

We want to aim for .1 ohm on the nickel wire, right? So if I'm doing a dual coil build for a dripper, I'll build two .2 ohm coils.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 1:16:06 PM EDT

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To speak of the devil, VaporShark just sent me a tracking number this morning. I've had nickel wire of various gauges on hand for a month now just waiting to be built on!



We want to aim for .1 ohm on the nickel wire, right? So if I'm doing a dual coil build for a dripper, I'll build two .2 ohm coils.
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I got my email as well.  I think evolve originally said 1.5 ish.  From what I've seen most people are doing single coil builds.

 
Link Posted: 1/10/2015 4:41:38 PM EDT
I've been thinking about picking one of these up for awhile. It's a toss up between the RDNA and IPV3 (possibly the IPV4, now).

I'd love to hear what everyone thinks of theirs when they get them in.
Link Posted: 1/10/2015 5:29:12 PM EDT

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Quoted:


I've been thinking about picking one of these up for awhile. It's a toss up between the RDNA and IPV3 (possibly the IPV4, now).



I'd love to hear what everyone thinks of theirs when they get them in.
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I think the only answer is get both.  

 
Link Posted: 1/10/2015 5:44:31 PM EDT
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I got my email as well.  I think evolve originally said 1.5 ish.  From what I've seen most people are doing single coil builds.  
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You might be thinking of regular Kanthal wire which you can build to whatever ohm you normally do. Nickel wire (which you get temperature control on) has near zero resistance when it's not heated up, so people are aiming for around point-1-ohm (0.1 ohm) on Nickel wire, then it'll give you regular resistance when it's heated up. I'll have to do some research on what to do when I normally run 0.3 to 0.4 ohm dual coil drippers - to what resistance I should build the nickel wire on.
Link Posted: 1/10/2015 5:59:40 PM EDT

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Quoted:
You might be thinking of regular Kanthal wire which you can build to whatever ohm you normally do. Nickel wire (which you get temperature control on) has near zero resistance when it's not heated up, so people are aiming for around point-1-ohm (0.1 ohm) on Nickel wire, then it'll give you regular resistance when it's heated up. I'll have to do some research on what to do when I normally run 0.3 to 0.4 ohm dual coil drippers - to what resistance I should build the nickel wire on.
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Quoted:

I got my email as well.  I think evolve originally said 1.5 ish.  From what I've seen most people are doing single coil builds.  




You might be thinking of regular Kanthal wire which you can build to whatever ohm you normally do. Nickel wire (which you get temperature control on) has near zero resistance when it's not heated up, so people are aiming for around point-1-ohm (0.1 ohm) on Nickel wire, then it'll give you regular resistance when it's heated up. I'll have to do some research on what to do when I normally run 0.3 to 0.4 ohm dual coil drippers - to what resistance I should build the nickel wire on.
Sorry I meant .15.  That's what Brandon from evolve said on pbusardos vid.

 
Link Posted: 1/10/2015 8:05:42 PM EDT
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Quoted:
I've been thinking about picking one of these up for awhile. It's a toss up between the RDNA and IPV3 (possibly the IPV4, now).

I'd love to hear what everyone thinks of theirs when they get them in.
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I'm having a hard time scraping together funds for something from Mouse so getting both isn't in the cards. I wish I had a shelf full of mods.
That's also why I'm so torn between the two. I think the RDNA is better innovation but I'm worried I may need those 90 more amps the IPV3 offers
Link Posted: 1/12/2015 6:19:06 PM EDT
Got my cyber Monday order Saturday.  Jumped right in with twisted 30/30 nickel/kanthal builds.  Temp set at 370f and loving it on my Lemo and 454 big block.  To verify the temp I wanted to use I inserted dry cotton into the coil and slowly raised the temp until it barely started to burn, then I backed off the temp 10 degrees.  Works like a charm.
Link Posted: 1/13/2015 9:41:19 PM EDT
Got my VaporShark tonight and it's friggin awesome! (only time will tell if the bugs have been worked out of the Evolve board though).

Took about 3 or 4 tries to get a dual-coil setup in the correct ohm range, but what I ended up with was two coils of 13 wraps of 32 gauge Nickel wire, on a 3/32" drillbit. Gives me 0.17 ohms, and I'm running it at 33-36 watts (just like my 0.3 dual coil kanthal builds). I'll probably try 12 wraps next time to get it down a little lower.

Really wanted to get the 28 gauge nickel wire to work, but even with 15 wraps it was still 0.07 ohms for the dual coil which was just too low (which the DNA 40 gave me the "too low resistance" error).

Temperature is set at 420º and I haven't been able to get a dry hit either (I swear at 450º I was just starting to taste something a little burnt).

One tip for the thinner wire on the coil (as in super duper thin and flimsy): pull off your desired thickness of cotton for your wick, then split it in half. Start to run one piece from the left side to the right side (just get it started), They take the other piece and run it in from the right side to the left side. Once both are through grab the ends and pull them through at the same time. This makes it so the coil is barely disturbed, since the two wicks are pulling against each other and equalizing the pressure on the coil. Otherwise the coil is more than likely going to deform as you pull it through (and or the most part you don't want ANY wraps of the coil touching on this nickel builds).
Link Posted: 1/13/2015 10:40:39 PM EDT
I'm pissed.  Mine was shipped on picked up by the post office on Friday and was supposed to be delivered yesterday.  My tracking says that it left Opa Locka at 6am on Saturday to come up here.  Nothing has arrived nor has the tracking been updated.  I'm thinking its time to call USPS and say WTF.
Link Posted: 1/13/2015 11:23:06 PM EDT
Yeah, USPS can suck sometimes. I'm sure you'll get it though.

Here's a size comparison between the Sigelei 150W, and the VaporShark (both have Hobo v2's on them). I'm going to change batteries tomorrow and see if the VaporShark will last 2 days without recharging like the 2x18650 Sigelei does (DNA 40 is supposed to be extremely energy effecient).

Link Posted: 1/14/2015 3:48:36 PM EDT
I really wanna order one but I hate waiting. They say that 10 business days
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 4:09:39 PM EDT
Got mine after about a month. Ordered it on the black friday sale at 20% off. I got the wireless charger and it works ok but it's not as cool as I thought. The shark skin is totally worth it for some protection. Temperature control is awesome.  All in all I love this thing and it was totally worth the wait.
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 4:11:49 PM EDT
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I really wanna order one but I hate waiting. They say that 10 business days
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So that means 20 days most likely...sorry to say.



If anybody has any dual-coil dripper setups they want to share I'm all ears. To get mine to hit like the Sigelei did I have to turn up the temperature to 460 to 500 degrees, and I will get slightly burned tasting hits towards the end (not burned as in scorched like a non-temperature sensing box or mech mod will give you, but the type of flavor that tells you you better refill the dripper right now because the next hit won't be pretty).

Think I'm running 9 wraps now at .13 ohms. Might rebuild it tonight to hit 1.0 ohms right on the dot and see how that does (I don't know what ohm to build a dual coil to in order to get the most out of the 40 watts...only post I found said each coil should be .14, but that would be 0.07 ohms which is too low for the device).
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 4:16:47 PM EDT
can you buy thinner gauge wire for it to increase the resistance?
Link Posted: 1/14/2015 4:43:14 PM EDT
I'm at 32 gauge already, and it's thin as hell. Like so thin that I'm afraid if I drip from too high above the dripper the pressure of the water falling is going to deform the coil when it hits. No shit. It's that flimsy. Nothing like Kanthal wire at all.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 1:22:51 PM EDT
Mine finally came in!  I am really impressed with the build quality.  Cant wait for my frustration tonight building some nickel coils. lol
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 1:33:57 PM EDT
I'll be feeling your pain! The nickel wire is really touchy stuff. Even with pulling 2 wicks into a coil from opposite directions super delicately, I still get a little pinching of the coils so they touch. I've been using a REALLY small screwdriver to move those little 32 gauge coils over so they're not touching.

Oh, and battery life sucks on the DNA 40 I think. I was at work yesterday (which means I took maybe 2 vape breaks in 8 hours), and the battery still died at around 8pm. My Sigelei 150w, with dual 18650's, even on weekends when I vape pretty much non-stop lasts for 2 full days. Don't know if it's because draining 2 batteries at once makes it more efficient or what, but I'm going to be sure to carry an extra 18650 with me at all times.

I'm at 0.11 ohms now. 3/32" drill bit, 32 gauge wire, 6 wraps, 440º. Ugly coils, but here it is in a Hobo v2:


Link Posted: 1/15/2015 1:52:43 PM EDT
In addition to twisting your nickel with kanthal, you can also twist single strands of nickel to work harden it.  Makes it stiffer and easier to work with.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 2:03:46 PM EDT
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In addition to twisting your nickel with kanthal, you can also twist single strands of nickel to work harden it.  Makes it stiffer and easier to work with.
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How does that work though (when you mix kanthal with nickel)? How do you know what numbers to combine for the resistance? What if your wraps of nickel around the kanthal are more or less for one build vs. the other (what happens to the ohm calculation then)?

And you wouldn't want to twist multiple strands of nickel together I wouldn't think. If I aim for that same .11 dual coil I'm using, it's 6 wraps of 32 gauge wire. With 28 gauge wire (don't have any 30 gauge to mess with), I gave up after trying a coil with 17 wraps! - and it still wasn't low enough, and I was out of room in my RDA to even fit the coil! If I try to twist 2x 32 gauge wires together i don't even want to think about how many wraps I'll need to get a proper coil made.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 5:49:20 PM EDT
Not sure if it will help, but here's a nickel wire build by Rip.


Link Posted: 1/15/2015 5:52:28 PM EDT
i think a dna40 would be really cool to have, i just cant bite the bullet on one yet, i will wait for clones or find someone to put a dna40 chip in my dna30 clone
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 3:40:47 AM EDT
Just bought one 8)
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 7:35:12 AM EDT
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i think a dna40 would be really cool to have, i just cant bite the bullet on one yet, i will wait for clones or find someone to put a dna40 chip in my dna30 clone
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Same here.  Looks awesome and I'm sure the fire button on that one wont stick like mine does sometimes. But i cant shell out almost 2 bills for a mod.
Link Posted: 1/16/2015 10:08:22 AM EDT
So for those of you who use these, have you had any problem with a single wrap of a coil heating up, glowing red, and giving you a burnt hit?

Seems to be on the edges of the coil the most, like where the wick drops down below so the wick won't be touching the top part of the wick there completely. But I've had it right in the middle of the wick as well (and it'll be on the top of the wick only, or the bottom only, side, etc...just a single hot spot which is hot enough to burn the cotton). No coils are touching at all.

I believe the DNA 40 averages the temperature, so if the entire coil is touching the wick (which helps keep the temperature down since the wick is wet), then it reads correctly, but if a small piece of wire isn't touching the wick, that little part of the wire heats up, turns red, and could give you a burnt taste (while the coil is still averaging the temperature as not being hot enough to burn the cotton). ...can't find much about this online (or I'm searching for the wrong keywords).
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 2:30:36 PM EDT
What's battery life like on this thing. Getting a little sick of going through a battery every 4 or 5 hours in my Hana clone.
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 2:37:58 PM EDT
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What's battery life like on this thing. Getting a little sick of going through a battery every 4 or 5 hours in my Hana clone.
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what clone do you have?
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 2:38:00 PM EDT
Pretty crappy. My 2x 18650 Sigelei always lasted me two full days (and that includes weekends where I vape a shitton). I would expect the single 18650 in a DNA 40 to last at least a full day...mine always dies right at around 8pm (with no warning either - full battery icon, then 5 minutes later it says "low battery").

...that's running a dual coil 0.11 nickel build at 37 watts though (which I assume would be comparable to my 0.3-0.4 ohm kanthal builds). My mech mods always lasted me all day long too (although if I wanted a hotter vape I would switch in a new battery).
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 2:39:53 PM EDT
hana has a dual 18650 dna40

https://www.hanamodz.com/dna40dualbattery
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 2:41:30 PM EDT
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what clone do you have?
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What's battery life like on this thing. Getting a little sick of going through a battery every 4 or 5 hours in my Hana clone.



what clone do you have?

Clouper

Atlantis at 17 watts. If the rdna 40 is gonna get shitty life then it will be sold when I get it.
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 2:41:55 PM EDT
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Clouper

Atlantis at 17 watts. If the rdna 40 is gonna get shitty life then it will be sold when I get it.
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What's battery life like on this thing. Getting a little sick of going through a battery every 4 or 5 hours in my Hana clone.



what clone do you have?

Clouper

Atlantis at 17 watts. If the rdna 40 is gonna get shitty life then it will be sold when I get it.



dna30?
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 3:07:26 PM EDT
One positive, is for the last day and a half at least, I have the hotspot issue under control. I bought some Cellucotton (rayon) and this new dual coil is kicking ass! We'll see if it continues to be good.
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 3:07:45 PM EDT
Yeah
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 3:26:03 PM EDT
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Yeah
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what battery?
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 3:26:35 PM EDT
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One positive, is for the last day and a half at least, I have the hotspot issue under control. I bought some Cellucotton (rayon) and this new dual coil is kicking ass! We'll see if it continues to be good.
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thats good news!
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 3:33:25 PM EDT
The 2600 purple efest
Link Posted: 1/18/2015 3:34:56 PM EDT
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The 2600 purple efest
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every try the 3100mAh one? thats what i use in mine
Link Posted: 1/19/2015 1:05:49 PM EDT
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What do your customers want? DNA 40, IMO, is only for those who want to try temperature control. Otherwise there's like 1,265 other mods which are cheaper and have a ton more power (watts) in them.

Besides that, my VaporShark DNA 40 is working perfect a week in (besides the battery meter seeming to only have two modes: at 95% capacity, and a "battery low" warning).
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Im having the same issue as well.    

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Took his quote from another topic...but is anybody else having this same issue on their VaporShark? That the battery meter isn't working at all?

I emailed both Evolv and VaporShark. Evolv told me it'll only give you a battery reading as you're taking a drag...but mine doesn't even do this (as in I've never, ever, seen the battery meter with any graphic other than 100% full, and completely empty, even when I hold the fire button down.). Still waiting on VaporShark to write me back...
Link Posted: 1/19/2015 10:25:58 PM EDT

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Took his quote from another topic...but is anybody else having this same issue on their VaporShark? That the battery meter isn't working at all?



I emailed both Evolv and VaporShark. Evolv told me it'll only give you a battery reading as you're taking a drag...but mine doesn't even do this (as in I've never, ever, seen the battery meter with any graphic other than 100% full, and completely empty, even when I hold the fire button down.). Still waiting on VaporShark to write me back...
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Quoted:


Quoted:

What do your customers want? DNA 40, IMO, is only for those who want to try temperature control. Otherwise there's like 1,265 other mods which are cheaper and have a ton more power (watts) in them.



Besides that, my VaporShark DNA 40 is working perfect a week in (besides the battery meter seeming to only have two modes: at 95% capacity, and a "battery low" warning).
Im having the same issue as well.    







Took his quote from another topic...but is anybody else having this same issue on their VaporShark? That the battery meter isn't working at all?



I emailed both Evolv and VaporShark. Evolv told me it'll only give you a battery reading as you're taking a drag...but mine doesn't even do this (as in I've never, ever, seen the battery meter with any graphic other than 100% full, and completely empty, even when I hold the fire button down.). Still waiting on VaporShark to write me back...
Very interested what they have to say back.  Its getting very annoying.

 
Link Posted: 1/19/2015 10:26:11 PM EDT



double tap
Link Posted: 1/21/2015 11:58:58 AM EDT
any one using the wireless charging?

how does it work? (i don't mean like the science behind it, but i mean like do you plug the base into the wall charger and just set the mod on it to charge?)
Link Posted: 1/21/2015 12:48:59 PM EDT
Essentially, yes.

And has anybody tried to charge theirs on another charging pad (or whatever the correct name is for these thingamabobs)? I thought they should all be universal, but I just set mine on my computer mouse's charging pad, and it seems to be charging for a minute or two, then charging turns off (and the battery certainly wasn't recharged in that short period of time). I set it down again, and it's been going for about 5 minutes so far...but that's certainly weird.




Also, for my last post about fixing the coils' hotspot problem, I fear I spoke too soon. The last coil was fine for a day or two, then started getting hotspots on random parts of the coil again (only when it gets very low on juice in the wick of course...but there goes the promise of "no dry hits, ever"). Maybe the wick just doesn't last as long? Or the slight breakdown of the wicking material as you use it makes the wick shrink away from the coil, so when a small part of the coil doesn't make contact anymore, you'll get a hotspot there? ...I really can't figure it out.

Here's the newest coil though. My most recent hotspots have most frequently been near the ends of the coil, so if you look at the top coil you can see where I bent the wire on the last coil inwards some, so it's pressing harder against the wick. Couldn't get it as drastic on the bottom coil but there's a good piece of wick there and hopefully it'll be fine. Switched to Rayon wick as well. Bought some Japanese cotton, but that stuff is pretty stiff so I don't see how that would work on the super-thin and flimsy nickel wire.



Link Posted: 1/21/2015 1:09:01 PM EDT
one more question about the rdna40

it says it has magnets to hold battery door on, does it need to unscrew also?
Link Posted: 1/21/2015 1:13:29 PM EDT
No, the door is held on only by magnets, no tools needed to change the battery.
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