The risks, though small, are real. And so is the desolation. But the aftermath
of the accident has created a misleading stereotype of the zone as a toxic
wasteland, a nuclear desert devoid of life, and certainly not a place a sane
person would want to visit.
In fact, by ending industrialization, deforestation, cultivation and other human
intrusions, radiation has transformed the zone into one of Europe's largest
wildlife habitats, a fascinating and at times beautiful wildness teeming with
large animals such as moose, wolves, boar and deer. It now is home to 270 bird
species, 31 of them endangered--making the zone one of the few places in Europe
to spot rarities such as black storks and booted eagles.
And traveling to Chernobyl may qualify as a kind of adventure tourism. The very
knowledge of the buzzing background of radiation imbues even the prosaic act of
walking down the street with an aura of excitement. It isn't the same adrenalin
punch as bungee jumping in the Andes, but it is a palpable sensation--like being
surrounded by ghosts.
By law, no one can enter the zone without permission. But except for children
under 17, the administration may give permission to pretty much anyone. The vast
majority of the nearly 1,000 annual visitors are scientists, journalists,
politicians and international nuclear officials, but the zone has hosted a
handful of what Dmytruk calls "pure" tourists--including three Japanese in
2000--and it can put together customized programs, such as safaris in search of
Przewalski horses, which some experts believe are the ancestors of all domestic
horses but far more aggressive..
"If a group of Californians want to go bird-watching, we can organize that,"
Dmytruk said, adding, "so long as they know the difference between plutonium and
potatoes."
Of course, Chernobyl isn't Club Med. But 16 years after the fourth reactor bloc
spewed radiation around the globe, the risks are mostly manageable. About a
quarter of the cesium and strontium have already decayed, and 95% of the
remaining radioactive molecules are no longer in fallout that can get on or
inside a visitor, but have sunk to a depth of about 5 inches in the soil.
From there, they have insinuated themselves into the food chain, making the
zone's diverse and abundant flora and fauna radioactive indeed. An antler shed
recently by a Chernobyl elk was stuffed with so much strontium that it cannot be
allowed out of the zone. But three Przewalski foals born in the wild, though
radioactive, have grown to adolescence with no visible effects.
Such radioactivity now has receded to the background. On an average day, a
visitor might receive an extra radiation dose about equivalent to taking a
two-hour plane trip, zone officials say.
That is, if the visitor follows the strict but simple safety rules: "Don't eat
local food, stay on the pavement, and go only where your guide takes you,"
Dmytruk said.
It is almost impossible to smell fresher air in an urban setting than here in
the town of Chernobyl, where the number of cars seen on a warm April day could
be counted on one hand and songbirds frequently provide the only sound.
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