Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 8/7/2001 4:03:20 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 4:14:02 PM EST
If that's the case, someone went to a lot of trouble to re-route the wires. I've worked on quite a few S-10s and I don't recall removing anything other than the wires and looms. Sometimes the wires will be routed under/through various components and brackets, but, with rare exception, can be wormed out. Take a hard look and you should be able to replace them without removing anything major. Good luck, Eddie
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 4:19:21 PM EST
Try these two sites: [url]http://s10-4x4.com[/url] [url]http://www.s-seriesforum.com/[/url] Hope this helps, -David
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 4:36:41 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 5:23:54 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 5:34:21 PM EST
Originally Posted By raf: I have horrible memories of some GM cars where you had to jack up the engine to access the back plugs. Unbelievable. IDIOTS!
View Quote
reminds me of a friend of a friend who had to pay $900 just in labor to change the alternator. he owned a saturn and the engine bay is so small that the engineering (if that's what you want to call it) to get it all in there requires the entire engine to be lifted and rocked just to access the alternator. horror! one of the MANY reasons i'll never own a saturn.
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 5:38:27 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 8:57:05 PM EST
I've had two small blazers, one with a 4 cyl and another with a 2.8 V6. The 4 cyl was no problem to work on. With the 2.8 V6, you had to remove part of the fender above the front wheel and reach through the wheelwell to get to the oil filter. Also, you had to turn the wheel all of the way to the right. As if that wasn't enough hassle, you also had to jack-up the body to get the wheel and suspension to drop enough so that you could reach your arm into the well. Then, you had to wrestle blindly to get the filter off. The spark plugs were an 8 hour hassle. From what I remember (only did it once), I did have to remove about a dozen minor parts to get to the wires (nothing like the intake manifold). As much of a pain as the 2.8 was, the 4 cylinder wasn't bad at all. It almost made up completely for the poor gas mileage and poor acceleration of the 4 cylinder. brouhaha, make sure you replace the wires one at a time. That's a good idea to keep from mixing them up (talk about a rough idle!), and if there's one wire you simply can't replace, then you might can live with that, if you have to. Despite the GM S-10/Blazer's poor design, the new Corvette has to take the prize. You have to jack-up the back higher than the front to completely drain-out the oil pan. Think about that. You drive the front up onto ramps, and then somehow, you have to get the back higher. He has ended-up going to Jiffy Lube, and having them drive over their grease pit then back-up onto a set of ramps under the rear wheels. GM could have easily put the plug on the rear of the pan, and then when the front was on ramps, the oil would drain. Wouldn't that have been a good idea?
Link Posted: 8/7/2001 9:00:13 PM EST
I have a 2.5liter s-10 and the plug wires on the distributor are behind the motor above the transmission. They are accessible but it's a little difficult with my big hands. It is do-able though. The 2.8 liter is a totally different type motor than 4 cyl. because it's a larger 6 cylinder.
Link Posted: 8/8/2001 6:39:57 AM EST
Link Posted: 8/8/2001 9:02:03 AM EST
brou- get up here and go to the mall o america -eat some chicken wings at hooters drink beer
Link Posted: 8/8/2001 6:00:55 PM EST
I have a 95 s10 with a 2.2 and just did a valve job on it, you can change the wires with no problem, just take them though the intake one at a time, there is no distributor just coils make sure to do them one at a time and put the wire loom back on the new wires, piece of cake, dont have to remove anything but the wire holder near the coils, you'll see what I mean.I'd say good luck but you wont need it, really not much to it.
Top Top