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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:39:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Bleed the cooling system, on those cars there is one on the front valve cover near the passenger side and one on the thermostate housing near the drivers side.
Edit - if you change the thermostat, one side of the housing is slotted to work around the exhaust cross over. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:40:24 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bleed the cooling system, on those cars there is one on the front valve cover near the passenger side and one on the thermostate housing near the drivers side. Did that after flushing, forgot about the one on top of the water pump though. I'll try that again. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:42:34 PM EDT
[#3]
What year is it? I had this issue in a 2007 Grand Prix which was just after Pontiac acknowledged an issue with the plenum gaskets in the years preceding it. On mine, however, it turned out the water pump needed to be replaced.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:42:38 PM EDT
[#4]
I'd replace the thermostat. I had one go bad and act a little like that in a 1995 Grand Prix.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:43:10 PM EDT
[#5]
Does the fan work? Does it have a leak?
If coolant if full and fan works replace thermostat. If it has leak fix leak and refill/remove air. If fan doesnt work fix fan. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:43:25 PM EDT
[#6]
You should have put in a new thermostat when you flushed the system.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:43:48 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What year is it? I had this issue in a 2007 Grand Prix which was just after Pontiac acknowledged an issue with the plenum gaskets in the years preceding it. On mine, however, it turned out the water pump needed to be replaced. EVERY 3100 and 3400 leaks from the lower intake manifolds, who knows what design revision they're on for the gaskets. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:49:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Running a higher ratio of coolant to water will reduce boil-over and might help with overheatting.
I flush mine every 30-40k |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:50:04 PM EDT
[#9]
I had the lower manifold gaskets replaced about 8 years ago because of the known issue. My previous Grand Am with same motor blew the gasket and filled up the engine with coolant.
Bled the system at both points. Got some air out at the thermostat side, immediately had coolant at the pump. The upper radiator hose was almost flat before I opened the bleeder valve. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:51:25 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted: I've had this posted on the Grand Prix forum but they don't get the traffic we do. 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1 Noticed two weeks ago the car was inching up in temp during stop and go traffic (A good distance at 40+mph brings the temp back down.). Time for a coolant flush anyway. Give it a good hose out, don't get any gunk out of the radiator. Temps have since shot up here and now if I get in prolonged stop and go traffic the temp is pushing the red line. Last couple of days when I turn it off it is boiling into the overflow tank. Water pump was replaced three years ago, everything else is original. Another heating/cooling issue that I had forgotten about was during the winter I was not getting hot air when on the interstate, only during stop and go driving. I had planned to swap out the thermostat but then the temp warmed up and I forgot about it. Both fans are running when the AC is on. I'm thinking a corroded radiator that is not moving enough coolant or a thermostat that is not opening all the way. Maybe some junk built up between the radiator and condenser? Any thoughts from the pros? I am good at replacing parts but terrible at diagnosing the issues. It's a GM car. You're thinking too much |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:51:45 PM EDT
[#11]
8 years ago???
I'd say they are leaking again as it was a poor design. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:52:01 PM EDT
[#12]
Recore or new radiator.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:53:20 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Recore or new radiator. That does not look like an exciting swap. 
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:55:00 PM EDT
[#14]
If the heat wasn't working and now its overheating I'd lean towards the thermostat. It's a $10 part and should take less than a half hour to change. I'd start there.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:57:20 PM EDT
[#15]
If you have not done these yet, do them.
http://amzn.com/B000CSC5MG The supercharged version radiator fits the 3.1 cars and has 2 rows vs 1. Put one in my 2000 GP 3.1 car, fit no problem. No more overheat problems. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-99-BUICK-REGAL-97-2003-GRAND-PRIX-3-8-V6-RADIATOR-W-SUPERCHARGE-AUTO-AT-NEW-/360666986720?fits=Year%3A2001|Model%3AGrand+Prix&hash=item53f96d78e0&vxp=mtr |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:58:59 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have not done these yet, do them. http://amzn.com/B000CSC5MG The supercharged version radiator fits the 3.1 cars and has 2 rows vs 1. Put one in my 2000 GP 3.1 car, fit no problem. No more overheat problems. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-99-BUICK-REGAL-97-2003-GRAND-PRIX-3-8-V6-RADIATOR-W-SUPERCHARGE-AUTO-AT-NEW-/360666986720?fits=Year%3A2001|Model%3AGrand+Prix&hash=item53f96d78e0&vxp=mtr I was looking at those on eBay. Just doesn't look fun to replace. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:59:13 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That does not look like an exciting swap. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Recore or new radiator. That does not look like an exciting swap. It's actually not too bad, took about 2hr with my very non mechanically inclined son doing the work while I supervised from a comfy chair 
The trans cooler lines are snap-in, remove the clip and they pull right out, no need to unscrew fitting. Bolt on either side of radiator, it just tilts twoard engine and lifts out of the rubber grommets on bottom. Check the trans cooler fittings on the new rad, mine were loose, and since the lines snap in I didn't catch it before install, had to fight with a wrench to tighten them up in the car. Would have saved a mess if I'd checked them. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:59:51 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If the heat wasn't working and now its overheating I'd lean towards the thermostat. It's a $10 part and should take less than a half hour to change. I'd start there. I am thinking I'll give that a go early Thursday before it gets hot outside. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 7:59:54 PM EDT
[#19]
In the mean time dont use your AC
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:00:41 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In the mean time dont use your AC
It stays a little cooler with the AC on. Fans don't seem to come on unless the AC is running. I'm afraid this car is about to start nickel and diming me. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:07:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Your plugged heater core is telling you you're radiators plugged also
That red coolant is notorious for it .... you can blow it out of the heater core but you probably need a new radiator unless a shop will clean it for cheap. They don't cost much if you know someone that can get the shop price at NAPA .... probably under 100.00 bucks. Don't scrimp on this shit ... the bill for blow head gasket - cracked head - or new motor will have you wishing you didn't cheap out. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:08:48 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It stays a little cooler with the AC on. Fans don't seem to come on unless the AC is running. I'm afraid this car is about to start nickel and diming me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
In the mean time dont use your AC
It stays a little cooler with the AC on. Fans don't seem to come on unless the AC is running. I'm afraid this car is about to start nickel and diming me. Normally the opisite happens. When was the last time the thermostat was replaced? |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:11:37 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Normally the opisite happens. When was the last time the therostat was replaced? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
In the mean time dont use your AC
It stays a little cooler with the AC on. Fans don't seem to come on unless the AC is running. I'm afraid this car is about to start nickel and diming me. Normally the opisite happens. When was the last time the therostat was replaced? Never |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:12:23 PM EDT
[#24]
My son bought a 95 Grand Am 3.1 for collage back in 2005.
Bought very cheap with known Overheating issues. Head gasket is what we figured and were right. They were know for this in addition to the Lower Plenum on the Intake Manifolds. However if it cools down after being driven then Radiator and Cooling fans are the most logical places to start. One thing on the 95 I remember reading is that unlike a lot of cars a plugged heater core can cause overheating issues as well, the engine uses the heater core as a bypass as part of the cooling system. Its kind of an unusual set up as I recall. Simple way to check since it is summer and you don't need heat, disconnect the heater hoses and run a hose between the connections on the engine, this takes the core out of the loop. Also if I remember correctly that engine is very sensitive to proper bleeding of the cooling system or you can have a pocket of trapped air in the core and cooling system which can also cause overheating. There are bleeder screws 3 total if I remember on that engine. You will want them open when adding coolant, keep adding until no more air bubbles out. Good luck and let us know. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:12:44 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Your plugged heater core is telling you you're radiators plugged also That red coolant is notorious for it .... you can blow it out of the heater core but you probably need a new radiator unless a shop will clean it for cheap. They don't cost much if you know someone that can get the shop price at NAPA .... probably under 100.00 bucks. Don't scrimp on this shit ... the bill for blow head gasket - cracked head - or new motor will have you wishing you didn't cheap out. I only ran the red stuff in there for the first 75K miles. First coolant change went to the green. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:13:46 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd replace the thermostat. I had one go bad and act a little like that in a 1995 Grand Prix. Yes, start with the cheapest things first. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:14:03 PM EDT
[#27]
Simple and likely fixes first........replace that thermostat.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:16:13 PM EDT
[#28]
Could it be the infamous GM Dex Cool coolant sludge syndrome? I think that was during the late 90s early 2000s.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:22:58 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Could it be the infamous GM Dex Cool coolant sludge syndrome? I think that was during the late 90s early 2000s. I haven't run the red coolant in this since 75K miles so I hope not. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:23:42 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I only ran the red stuff in there for the first 75K miles. First coolant change went to the green. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Your plugged heater core is telling you you're radiators plugged also That red coolant is notorious for it .... you can blow it out of the heater core but you probably need a new radiator unless a shop will clean it for cheap. They don't cost much if you know someone that can get the shop price at NAPA .... probably under 100.00 bucks. Don't scrimp on this shit ... the bill for blow head gasket - cracked head - or new motor will have you wishing you didn't cheap out. I only ran the red stuff in there for the first 75K miles. First coolant change went to the green. Did you get all the Dex-Cool out of the system? If not when you add green to Dex-Cool it will turn into sludge and clog the radiator and heater core. GM was fuking retarded going to Dex-Cool. Also if you replace the thermastat drill 2 3/16" holes in the sides that way if it ever gets stuck shut you will still be moving coolant. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:24:36 PM EDT
[#31]
Id start with the Thermostat.
Have you checked your fan clutch? |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:26:12 PM EDT
[#32]
I'd be leaning towards an air pocket on the thermostat from leaky intake manifold gaskets.
Yes, they will continue to blow out every 4 years or so, as long as the car lives. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:26:24 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Id start with the Thermostat. Have you checked your fan clutch? Both fans are electric. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:26:51 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Your plugged heater core is telling you you're radiators plugged also That red coolant is notorious for it . Toyota Red OTOH is awesome. I was shocked when I saw the inside of my thermostat housing when I replaced the thermostat over a month ago on my 2003 Tacoma. I do a coolant flush every 4 years  |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:27:05 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you get all the Dex-Cool out of the system? If not when you add green to Dex-Cool it will turn into sludge and clog the radiator and heater core. GM was fuking retarded going to Dex-Cool. Also if you replace the thermastat drill 2 3/16" holes in the sides that way if it ever gets stuck shut you will still be moving coolant. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your plugged heater core is telling you you're radiators plugged also That red coolant is notorious for it .... you can blow it out of the heater core but you probably need a new radiator unless a shop will clean it for cheap. They don't cost much if you know someone that can get the shop price at NAPA .... probably under 100.00 bucks. Don't scrimp on this shit ... the bill for blow head gasket - cracked head - or new motor will have you wishing you didn't cheap out. I only ran the red stuff in there for the first 75K miles. First coolant change went to the green. Did you get all the Dex-Cool out of the system? If not when you add green to Dex-Cool it will turn into sludge and clog the radiator and heater core. GM was fuking retarded going to Dex-Cool. Also if you replace the thermastat drill 2 3/16" holes in the sides that way if it ever gets stuck shut you will still be moving coolant. I think/hope so. It was flushed at the dealer the first time, I have done the rest of them. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:27:59 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Both fans are electric. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Id start with the Thermostat. Have you checked your fan clutch? Both fans are electric. So its voltage that tells the fans to spin faster to pull more air through the radiator? Has that been checked? |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:29:41 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So its voltage that tells the fans to spin faster to pull more air through the radiator? Has that been checked? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Id start with the Thermostat. Have you checked your fan clutch? Both fans are electric. So its voltage that tells the fans to spin faster to pull more air through the radiator? Has that been checked? Nope. Both fans run with the AC on. It didn't cross my mind that they would be variable speed. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:31:15 PM EDT
[#38]
OP have you pressure tested the cooling system? You can rent the tools from your local parts store to do this and find a video on youtube on how to do it. That and the thermastat would be the first things I would do. It runs cooler with the AC on because the fans run all the time when it is on. They are not variable speed either on or off.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:35:45 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nope. Both fans run with the AC on. It didn't cross my mind that they would be variable speed. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Quoted:
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Id start with the Thermostat. Have you checked your fan clutch? Both fans are electric. So its voltage that tells the fans to spin faster to pull more air through the radiator? Has that been checked? Nope. Both fans run with the AC on. It didn't cross my mind that they would be variable speed. There are 3 fan relays IIRC. They are set up to allow the fans to run in series on 6V each for a low speed and in parallel on 12v for high speed. The only electric fan problems I have seem on GM cars is cop cars that idle all day with the A/C on tend to overheat the relays and fan motors tend to crap out every 200,000 miles or so on all of them. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:37:12 PM EDT
[#40]
Yes thermostat first .... but if no and its holding pressure a rad shop will check the flow of you're radiator.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:40:22 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There are 3 fan relays IIRC. They are set up to allow the fans to run in series on 6V each for a low speed and in parallel on 12v for high speed. The only electric fan problems I have seem on GM cars is cop cars that idle all day with the A/C on tend to overheat the relays and fan motors tend to crap out every 200,000 miles or so on all of them. They only seem to run with the AC on, regardless of engine temp. I can think of one relay in the main box for the fans, I'll have to look closer. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:43:43 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nope. Both fans run with the AC on. It didn't cross my mind that they would be variable speed. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Id start with the Thermostat. Have you checked your fan clutch? Both fans are electric. So its voltage that tells the fans to spin faster to pull more air through the radiator? Has that been checked? Nope. Both fans run with the AC on. It didn't cross my mind that they would be variable speed. When the car heats up, what tells those fans to pull more air through the radiator? If youve just replaced water pump, and dont suspect the radiator or the thermostat, thats what Id look at, especially the way you describe it heating up. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:44:03 PM EDT
[#43]
on rock auto a thermostat is $4 and a radiator is $80. i would try the thermostat first and them try a radiator.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:44:18 PM EDT
[#44]
If its boiling when you stop you need to change the radiator cap. Had the same issue on a Camaro a few years ago. Figured it out after changing hoses, thermostat and water pump.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 8:45:38 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They only seem to run with the AC on, regardless of engine temp. I can think of one relay in the main box for the fans, I'll have to look closer. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
There are 3 fan relays IIRC. They are set up to allow the fans to run in series on 6V each for a low speed and in parallel on 12v for high speed. The only electric fan problems I have seem on GM cars is cop cars that idle all day with the A/C on tend to overheat the relays and fan motors tend to crap out every 200,000 miles or so on all of them. They only seem to run with the AC on, regardless of engine temp. I can think of one relay in the main box for the fans, I'll have to look closer. I have a rusty recollection of low coming on at 214 and high at 231 without the A/C on. I don't remember if your car has a separate fan switch in the head or it is ECM controlled off of the fuel injection coolant temp sensor. You may have to monitor with a scan tool to check proper function. A/C will override and turn the fans on to cool the condenser. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 9:23:56 PM EDT
[#46]
My has a 07 Pontiac that would burp out the coolant after you shut it off. It was a bad radiator cap it would not hold any pressure.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 9:27:17 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My has a 07 Pontiac that would burp out the coolant after you shut it off. It was a bad radiator cap it would not hold any pressure. I tried a different radiator cap from Autozone and had the same symptoms. Swapped back to the stock one yesterday. |
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