Car Mechanics in the House Cooling Issue

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Car Mechanics in the House Cooling Issue

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:34:28 PM EDT

I have a cooling problem with a 2001 Chevy Impala.

The temp gauge in the car reads around 140 deg

The resevoir was low so I added anti freeze, the temp did not come up.

The high radiator hose is warm...not hot.

The low radiator hose is cold.

This is after driving the car for some time...any quick diagnosis?

Thanks!!

edoted to add the fan is kicking on as well? still a stuck thermostat?

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:35:51 PM EDT

[#1]

whats the temp there?

Reason I ask is because it was -30 here a few days ago and we were having all sorts of heating problems.

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:36:35 PM EDT

[#2]

your thermostat is probably stuck open by the way...

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:37:26 PM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:
your thermostat is probably stuck open by the way...

That seems to be the issue.

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:39:15 PM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:
your thermostat is probably stuck open by the way...

Ding ding ding!

I concurr....

Pop a new one in there, it'll be all better.

Erik Johnson

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:40:09 PM EDT

[#5]

There ya go

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:40:19 PM EDT

[#6]

Thermostat stuck open?
What is the temp after a few miles at highway speed?

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:42:07 PM EDT

[#7]

probably less than when your sitting still

With a stuck thermo the car wont heat up.

Run cold air over the radiator (driving down the road) will probably cool it off even more

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:42:38 PM EDT

[#8]

CM...it was 140 after driving to the Home Depot and back a 2 mile trip each way. The fan is kicking on as well.

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:44:39 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:

edoted to add the fan is kicking on as well? still a stuck thermostat?

Especially so.

Once the fan kicks on it defeats any heat it has managed to build up.

Trust me, a 7 dollar thermo and 10 minutes of work will solve this issue.

Dont forget to get a thermostat housing gasket if your new thermo doesnt come with one.

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:48:43 PM EDT

[#10]

Is it OK to drive until I can pick up a thermo tomorrow after work?

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:50:26 PM EDT

[#11]

sure. It will be cold though.

With a sticking thermo be conscious that if it sticks open, it can stick closed and cause over heating.

Be wary and watch the temp gauge.

Quoted:
Is it OK to drive until I can pick up a thermo tomorrow after work?

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:52:41 PM EDT

[#12]

Thanx Gigs!!...Thanx all!

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:56:05 PM EDT

[#13]

How many miles? does it have "DexCool" in it? Have you ever had the cooling system flushed?

If it has Dex in it for more than about 80,000, you may be screwed, because the stuff, if it gets oxyen in it(ie:exposed to air for long periods of time, alot like brake fluid and moisture) the stuff will oxidise aluminum. That will eat away at the radiator, intake manifold, heater core, thermostat, ect. and can jel and plug passages. The catch is if you flush it, it may disolve the buildup pluging the intake gasget from where it ate away aluminum and having a shitty gasget. This will cause a sudden and possibly severe coolant leak at the intake manifold.

If you flush it with that Prestone stuff that will work with anything, you will prevent further problems.

P.S. Any spelling errors, I didn't see, so go easy.

Posted: 2/22/2006 5:57:28 PM EDT

[#14]

by dex cool he means if its orange and not green

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:03:54 PM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
by dex cool he means if its orange and not green

Actually, it's pink. The Ford stuff is orange.

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:04:53 PM EDT

[#16]

The fan should NOT be kicking on if the thermostat is stuck open. It is a temp controlled unit and if it does not get up to 200 or so It should not kick. The antifreeze being low is a bit suspicious, unless it stuck closed at some point. You could also have a blockage or the water pump could have worn fins. How many miles is on the car? Have you owned it from new? How much anti did you add? If it was REALLY low you might need to bleed the system. There is a bleeder screw that you need to loosen to get any air bubbles out of the system. Is the car running OK? What kind of milage are you getting? Did it drop? Does the car idle OK or does it miss a bit? When is the last time, if ever that you checked the antifreeze?

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:11:30 PM EDT

[#17]

Whoa...The car has about 50,000 on it. Last time I checked the anti freeze was last summer and I added to it. We have owned it since new. I added about 1/2 gallon the resevoir but it did not get drawn into the system. It was really low I did not see any anti freeze in the res. Where is this bleeder screw located? The car idles fine and I don't know about mileage as my wife drives it.

It's confusing,,,I thought it might be the pump but it is not overheating....

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:26:01 PM EDT

[#18]

..

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:32:37 PM EDT

[#19]

The Bleeder should be located somewhere along the upper hose area. It's usually by the temp sensor or fan switch. It will be a high point in the cooling system. You should not be losing antifreeze and a 1/2 gallon is a lot to add. especially when it sounds as if all you did was fill the overflow. Does this car even have a radiator cap? It could very well be an air pocket causing problems.l

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:39:05 PM EDT

[#20]

OK...found it...should the car be running while bleeding?

It has a rad cap.

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:41:52 PM EDT

[#21]

I just thout of something. If it does have Dex, and it should unless you changed it, did you add more DexCool, or the green stuff? They DO NOT MIX!!! If you added green, the two may have seperated like oil and water, and have prevented normal circulation. Also the Dex may have eaten away the water pump fins, as they can be aluminum. Also, often the coolant temp sensor for the PCM(Powertrain Control Module/Fan) and the sensor for the gauge can be in seperate spots, and can cause inaccurate readings. It isn't out of the question that your gauge could just be wrong. Does it have heat?

Also, though it may seem overwhealming, all the questions have a reason, and often ansuring to the best of your knoledge, can rule out most causes.

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:48:36 PM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:
OK...found it...should the car be running while bleeding?

It has a rad cap.

You need to check your owners manual. I always bled mine [think brake bleeders] with the engine running. You can cheat by putting the front of the car up on high ramps. BLOCKING the rear tires and taking the cap off when cold and refilling it. It HAS to be at a pretty good angle t work tho.

Probably, how you bleed it would be to Fill the resevoir and radiator, make sure screw can be turned, start car, let warm up, open bleeder and let bleed until only anti comes out. You might need to do it at least several times. It can take some time. Don't let a pet lick or drink the spilled anti, it'll kill them horribly, Make sure res. and rad. are filled thruout doing it.

I hate doing this as it is so damn slow but it needs to be done on many cars if changing anti or if it was down a lot.

Posted: 2/22/2006 6:57:42 PM EDT

[#23]

here is a stupid question...I can't get the friggin rad cap off..what gives...there seems to be some kind of stop

Posted: 2/22/2006 7:03:15 PM EDT

[#24]

2 lock down notches on the cap. 1 to release pressure, then a second to keep it on the radiator. Bleed the system with the engine running and hot. You have to push down hard while turning to get it off too.