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Posted: 10/17/2004 4:51:58 PM EDT
Ok, I have a chance to get a rather large Canon Safe for free. It has a digital lock on it and is black in color. It is not fire rated but I don't have a safe now so anything would be good. Is this thing worth a shit, or am I better off with another brand? If its not good I will let someone else have a stab at it.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 4:52:55 PM EDT
How could a FREE safe be bad?
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 4:53:04 PM EDT
If it is free, and you can move it, the take it. Cannon makes a good safe.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 4:55:51 PM EDT
Free is the right price, I know this because my Ft Knox was FREE!!!!!
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 4:57:51 PM EDT
Cannon safes are good ones. Take it and run.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:10:32 PM EDT
Roger!! I will go get some Dowl rod and start moving!
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:14:40 PM EDT
Cannon is good to go,......mine IS fire rated though....
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:15:52 PM EDT
Lucky bastard!!! Grab that sucker!!!!!
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:16:36 PM EDT
Grab it fast. Good safe
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:19:05 PM EDT
Is the dowel rod to beat the people who will be moving the safe for you?

By the way, a safe is easier to move if you take the door off the hinges and move it as two pieces.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:20:41 PM EDT
If you want to firesafe it all you'd need to do is to add 3/4" gypsum drywall "shaft liner" that is used in commercial construction of elevator shafts. Use an intumescent adhesive caulk to seal the seams and your good to go!

Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:22:53 PM EDT
Garbage, just let me know where to pick up this crap and I'll make the drive from Oregon to pick it up and dispose of it properly.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:25:37 PM EDT
That is the true killer- moving a safe anywhere.

I had to pay movers $300 just to move my safe to a new place 10 miles from my old.

I agree with separating the door from the safe. The door is usually made of a much
thicker gauge metal, and has all the locking components. It's a bear lining it back
up and dropping the hinge pins back in though, as the door is so damned heavy. I used
a car jack and boards slid underneath as I jacked it up to it's re-installation height.

I'd take it if I was you.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:51:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/17/2004 6:52:15 PM EDT by LightSpeed2]
Or you could go to Walmart and buy one for 400.00 that is a glorified gym locker.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:59:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/17/2004 7:12:14 PM EDT by 444slayer]
All the fireproofing is is 2 or 3 layers of 1/2" sheet rock under the carpet. You could install that yourself if you wanted. I have moved a safe several times, my bigger one is the 48" wide. Some handy tools are a piece of carpet to slide the safe across linoleum, a piece of linoleum to slide the safe across carpet, a furniture dolly which can be rented, and pieces of PVC pipe to roll the safe on. The furniture dolly is the least help, and can be quite dangreous. I usually take trailer to pick one up, that way it is already at close to floor level. Canon does make nice safes. I would not advis taking the door off, as it is very easy to mess up the paint when removing or replacing it, and also a damn good way to get fingers mashed.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 7:13:56 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 8:43:34 PM EDT
use dowel rods, PVC pipe or golfballs under the safe when moving it... then you roll it along instead of carrying it.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 8:46:10 PM EDT
2" black pipe works the best. I don't think I could trust PVC pipe.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 8:48:12 PM EDT
Id take it for free, I'll take most anything for free.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 8:56:11 PM EDT

Originally Posted By JCKnife:
How could a FREE safe be bad?



Because it has a hawkins hole in it that teleports anything put into it straight into my safe
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