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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 4/4/2006 7:36:51 PM EST
Specifically MDF with an automotive grade Base / Clear paint? What should i prime with to seal the wood? I'm trying to make cabinet doors, and I need a high mirror gloss black and silver. This is about the only way I can think of getting what I want. Any other ideas are welcome also.

Link Posted: 4/4/2006 7:37:58 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/4/2006 7:38:38 PM EST by FieroLoki]
You can................ Why not cover them in formica (sp?) and paint that?
Link Posted: 4/4/2006 7:38:49 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/4/2006 7:39:42 PM EST by shop_rat45]

Originally Posted By FieroLoki:
You can................ Why not cover them in formica (sp?) and paint that?

Ehh you beat me with the edit.

Anyways, I don't think the Formica would conform to the curves.
Link Posted: 4/4/2006 7:41:44 PM EST
I'd imagine you could if you put on a layer of primer, but i'm no expert.
Link Posted: 4/4/2006 7:48:23 PM EST
Bondo sand and paint!! Just like a speaker box!!
Link Posted: 4/4/2006 8:01:06 PM EST
If it's the gloss that you need, use an oil-based paint on the wood, then coat with automotive clearcoat. My 10/22 was done this way on a laminated wood stock. Paint was hand rubbed on (and excess removed, then recoated) then had several coats of automotive clear put on. Followed up with 600 and 1000 grit wet sanding. Smooooooooooooooooth and glossy.

Link Posted: 4/4/2006 8:16:21 PM EST
Some of the harder less pores woods you can but it needs a primer. Soft woods like pine are awful hard to do.
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 11:26:50 AM EST
I wonder how well it will hold up though.
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 11:37:58 AM EST
MDF, being a man made product has a uniform density and porosity. It is smooth and an excellent surface to paint.

That said, you will definitely need to prime the surface. I would give it one coat of alkyd or oil based primer, then sand it and give it another coat. After the primer has cured, lightly sand and apply two or three coats of automotive paint. For this you want to apply it within the specified so the paint isn't dry yet and the coats have a mechanical and chemical bond. After the paint is dry, scuff the surface and follow with at least two coats of clear coat. Color sand after the clear is cured, then buff with a quality wax. (Or follow the manufacturer's directions exactly on how and when to apply the paint/clear.)

That is a hell of a lot of work, but if you want the finish you described, and want it to last, there really isn't any other way to do it. As the saying goes, preparation is everything and if you half ass that, your finish job will look like shit.

Automotive paint is actually some of the toughest paint out there. As long as it isn't abused it will last a long time and still look great. Use PPG or DuPont.
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 11:45:05 AM EST
A good primer that's compatible with the topcoat is no problem, I'd recommend you look toward marine finishes. More specialized products, unless you need some wild custom color. Check out West Marine website. www.westmarine.com/
Link Posted: 4/5/2006 12:03:48 PM EST
I had an 'antique' aged hardwood door coated with auto clearcoat. It was put on with a spray gun and had many coats. No primer. It looks like a glossy polyurethane finish.
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