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Posted: 1/30/2010 12:19:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 12:20:28 PM EDT by FMJshooter]
I have restored a few cars before but this would be my first Mopar. It's a rolling chassis no engine/trans so numbers matching OEM equipment stuff is not important to me.  Just wondering where the sweet spots are to look for hidden rust or damage.


 
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:23:29 PM EDT
It is a mopar , good luck not finding rust.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:27:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 12:27:52 PM EDT by larkinmusic]
Trunk and rear deck. What motor combo are you thinking about?   A 440 4-speed car would be awesome!

Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:31:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 12:34:47 PM EDT by FMJshooter]

Originally Posted By larkinmusic:






Trunk and rear deck. What motor combo are you thinking about?   A 440 4-speed car would be awesome!











That would be it! In high school my buddies dad handed him his 440 4 speed 69 with a pistol grip shifter (Lucky sob). We spent a ton of time in and under that car. That's where my addiction started and was my first experience with a muscle car so this would be a pretty special project for me.




Not looking forward to the cost so I'm going to have to reflect on this a bit. Mopar = $$$$





 
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:34:03 PM EDT
Having owned a 68 440 Charger, a 73 340 Duster and a 77 Coronet, my advice is check the front end carefully.
I never could keep a decent front end under a MOPAR.
Good luck and have fun,
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:37:40 PM EDT


Metal around the back window trim, lower fenders, lower quarters (sides of trunk), the entire floor pan, side rockers under doors.  These are the areas that one usually has to weld in new sheet metal.  The rust will always come back though.  It's impossible.  I spent a small fortune and a lot of time on my '72 chevelle.  Did everything right.  It still comes back.  Just lease a new BMW - its cheaper.  



Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:39:54 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FMJshooter:

I have restored a few cars before but this would be my first Mopar. It's a rolling chassis no engine/trans so numbers matching OEM equipment stuff is not important to me.  Just wondering where the sweet spots are to look for hidden rust or damage.  


Check this vid out. Roadrunner...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UER3T_bKmSA

Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:49:28 PM EDT
What has been said before jives with my experience.  I had a rust free 69 RR with a 4 speed pistol grip, 4.88 locker, and slash cut pipes that set off every car alarm on the block when I opened it up.  It was not a subtle car.

I still miss that beast.  It was only a high 11s car, but damn, it was fun.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 12:54:50 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Sugarfree:


Metal around the back window trim, lower fenders, lower quarters (sides of trunk), the entire floor pan, side rockers under doors.  These are the areas that one usually has to weld in new sheet metal.  The rust will always come back though.  It's impossible.  I spent a small fortune and a lot of time on my '72 chevelle.  Did everything right.  It still comes back.  Just lease a new BMW - its cheaper.  





Doing the work is 90% of the fun.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:09:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 1:09:55 PM EDT by GSAR426]
Originally Posted By Sugarfree:


Metal around the back window trim, lower fenders, lower quarters (sides of trunk), the entire floor pan, side rockers under doors.  These are the areas that one usually has to weld in new sheet metal.  The rust will always come back though.  It's impossible.  I spent a small fortune and a lot of time on my '72 chevelle.  Did everything right.  It still comes back.  Just lease a new BMW - its cheaper.  




The 69 Roadrunner has a lot of new sheet metal and parts available for it now that just five years ago were not around.  Go to Moparts for any questions you have. Moparts is the AR15.com of the Mopar world
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:14:39 PM EDT
im just here to post pics of my 68 383, 4spd pistol grip.



i miss that car

to the OP

do it, do it now
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:18:16 PM EDT



Originally Posted By GSAR426:



Originally Posted By Sugarfree:





Metal around the back window trim, lower fenders, lower quarters (sides of trunk), the entire floor pan, side rockers under doors.  These are the areas that one usually has to weld in new sheet metal.  The rust will always come back though.  It's impossible.  I spent a small fortune and a lot of time on my '72 chevelle.  Did everything right.  It still comes back.  Just lease a new BMW - its cheaper.  









The 69 Roadrunner has a lot of new sheet metal and parts available for it now that just five years ago were not around.  Go to Moparts for any questions you have. Moparts is the AR15.com of the Mopar world





Thanks for the link. I was just checking out Year One they seem to have a decent inventory of replacement sheet metal.



 
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:19:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 1:20:22 PM EDT by EXPcustom]
At the top of the windows where the trim is, I think they call it the rain gutters, that is where I would look for rust.



I had a 69 Charger, had to get rid of it because I was going to college and had no place to park it.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:21:21 PM EDT

Trunk and rear deck.




This.  Check out the area under the corners of the rear window.  Use a magnet.



Personally I don't worry much about the front end.  I just plan on a rebuild using Moog parts.  Stay away from the Polyfuckathane bushings.  I highly recommend the Moog "Problem solver" control arm bushings.  They allow you to dial in more caster for more stability at high speeds.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:22:20 PM EDT
Use AMD for all your sheet metal if they make what you need.  They use a better metal that is the same gauge as the factory stuff and it fits better, for Mopar stay away from goodmark
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:24:43 PM EDT
The area were the torsion bars go into the frame and also the frame areas around where your feet would sit.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:27:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 1:28:57 PM EDT by sgtgrits]
Just here for the pictures of the potential project.............................

<––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––my '70.

ETA: I gave up on rusty MI cars and went for a CA car for this restoration!

Link Posted: 1/30/2010 1:30:17 PM EDT
Best source of information is going to be finding the ARFCOM of Mopar products as someone already posted.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 2:21:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 2:22:00 PM EDT by FMJshooter]
Well that was much to do about nothing. Car has no vin plate, fender tag or title.

Probably for the best still struggling to get my 65 Mustang finished. Someday i will own one!

 
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 2:30:57 PM EDT



Originally Posted By FMJshooter:


Well that was much to do about nothing. Car has no vin plate, fender tag or title.
Probably for the best still struggling to get my 65 Mustang finished. Someday i will own one!  



 Run away!!!



 
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 2:44:21 PM EDT
Did you check the wall of the radiator support for the vin.  If it has a "R" for the 5th digit, its a hemi car.  "h" 383 or "M" for 440-6bbl.  You can always get Galen Govier to make a new fender tag and do a title search.  Might be worth it if its a hemi car.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 2:53:53 PM EDT
Check the VIN and make for sure it's a Road Runner, and not a rebadged Satelite. The VIN will also give up the original powertrain info.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 2:57:25 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 17Z:
Check the VIN and make for sure it's a Road Runner, and not a rebadged Satelite. The VIN will also give up the original powertrain info.


OP said the VIN is missing.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 3:05:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 3:07:51 PM EDT by sgtgrits]
Originally Posted By Archtaan:
Did you check the wall of the radiator support for the vin.  If it has a "R" for the 5th digit, its a hemi car.  "h" 383 or "M" for 440-6bbl.  You can always get Galen Govier to make a new fender tag and do a title search.  Might be worth it if its a hemi car.


You can also look for a partial vin under the trunk lid rubber gasket if I recall it would be on the left side? Just make sure it doesn't have the front mount for the rear leaf springs boxed out into what is called a "torque box."  Hate to walk away from a HEMI car....for sure!!

ETA: just a production number without the letter codes but it would be something Galen could help with after that.



Link Posted: 1/30/2010 3:09:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2010 3:17:10 PM EDT by FMJshooter]

Originally Posted By Archtaan:
Did you check the wall of the radiator support for the vin.  If it has a "R" for the 5th digit, its a hemi car.  "h" 383 or "M" for 440-6bbl.  You can always get Galen Govier to make a new fender tag and do a title search.  Might be worth it if its a hemi car.








Definitelynot a Hemi most likely a 383 from the looks of it. Guy says he has a bill of sale and it was a 383 car. I'll give this Govier fella a holler if i can get the vin from the radiator, i thought the radiator was a partial too. If i could get it tagged i could potentially buy this thing for a song so it would be worth it.
 
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 3:30:00 PM EDT
Galen won't touch most stuff unless it's a Hemi, 440+6, 340+6, or some ultra rare Mopar; He's very difficult to reach.  Without a VIN your pretty much stuck with getting a new one issued by the state,  It will just be some random number, unless you live in one of the few states that will let you have a new tag made from original documents, after they run the numbers for an existing or stolen car
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 3:35:17 PM EDT
My dream car is a '70 GTX.



Some day....some day.
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 4:08:08 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FMJshooter:

Originally Posted By Archtaan:
Did you check the wall of the radiator support for the vin.  If it has a "R" for the 5th digit, its a hemi car.  "h" 383 or "M" for 440-6bbl.  You can always get Galen Govier to make a new fender tag and do a title search.  Might be worth it if its a hemi car.

Definitelynot a Hemi most likely a 383 from the looks of it. Guy says he has a bill of sale and it was a 383 car. I'll give this Govier fella a holler if i can get the vin from the radiator, i thought the radiator was a partial too. If i could get it tagged i could potentially buy this thing for a song so it would be worth it.
 


Yea sorry withput a VIN you will not be able to tell if it is a RR or not. Still a 69 satellite is still a cool car and plenty of replacement sheet metal available and parts also.

Even if aint a RR get it and slap a 440 in it and have fun, you still will have a cool looking car and will not have to worry about driving it since it is not an ultra rare RR that allot of guys will restore and trailer it around to car shows collecting trophies but never driving it ever.

A cool looking 69 SAT is a great car to restore and have fun with.

That's why I have a 73 Charger, they made allot of them so I am not worried about driving it, once it's finished.

And yes MOPARTS is the place to be, I am a member there


73
Link Posted: 1/30/2010 4:26:04 PM EDT
Originally Posted By sgtgrits:
Just here for the pictures of the potential project.............................

<––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––my '70.

ETA: I gave up on rusty MI cars and went for a CA car for this restoration!


+1, and nice avatar.   I don't really have much to add, but like was said, Moparts is the shit when it comes to Mopar info.  68-70 B bodies.....
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