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Posted: 10/6/2004 5:15:22 PM EST
As the saying goes...

"No good deed goes unpunished"

I decided to change my tranny fluid tonight. I had order a deep tranny pan to replace the stock model (460 C6 Transmission)

Some of the bolts came out real easy. 5 did not, and the heads snapped off.

I guess I have a few choices, try to drill out, easy out, or heli coil. Reccomendations?

Also, when I got the tranny pan off, this was sitting in the bottom of it:



After doing some research, it turns out that is a plug from the Ford factory, used in the assembly process.

It's a 1989, with 43000 on it, I got it in February, I guess it's time to change the fluid!
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:20:32 PM EST
I think that might be a bad thing. But then again what do I know, I'm just a kid. Sorry I can't help you. I would drill out and buy new bolts though.

Wolfe
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:23:34 PM EST
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................

shit if i know what that plunger type thing is though, i don't do fords.......................
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:25:06 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:26:11 PM EST
That's original fluid? From 1989, or did that plug recently wiggle out?
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:26:27 PM EST
How in the hell did you scrape up the funds to buy a "Broken Tranny"??

I've seen tranny's before... but a broken one is quite a catch!

NOTE: Stay away from the corner of 55th and Main
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:26:56 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:32:49 PM EST
There is another post on tonight about broken bolts and I'll tell you what I told him. Pay someone to TIG a nut to the broken bolt, then back it out. The heat will loosen the bolt. If the bolt is not too deep below the surface any good welder can build it up high enough to put a nut on it. While your at it get your welder to put a pipe nipple and cap on the pan so you wont have to do this again. That way you can change the oil without pulling the pan unless your going to change the filter too.
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:34:13 PM EST
That plug has scared many shade tree mechanics


Bobwrench
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:50:48 PM EST

Originally Posted By bobwrench:
That plug has scared many shade tree mechanics


Bobwrench



It sure got me!
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:52:46 PM EST

Originally Posted By NightWatchman:
That's original fluid? From 1989, or did that plug recently wiggle out?



Best I can tell, the pan has never been dropped. I think some of the Jiffy lube type places can change the fluid with some machine that hooks to the cooling lines.

Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:53:37 PM EST
Left handed drill bits. If the bolts werent mangled going in it'll help. Home Depot has a pretty cheap set of easy-outs. Just in case the drill bit trick doesnt work.
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:58:17 PM EST
If you managed to break 5, I'd suggest having someone else finish the repair.

Link Posted: 10/6/2004 5:58:24 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pangea:
There is another post on tonight about broken bolts and I'll tell you what I told him. Pay someone to TIG a nut to the broken bolt, then back it out. The heat will loosen the bolt. If the bolt is not too deep below the surface any good welder can build it up high enough to put a nut on it. While your at it get your welder to put a pipe nipple and cap on the pan so you wont have to do this again. That way you can change the oil without pulling the pan unless your going to change the filter too.



Looks like they are a bit too recessed, plus I would have to get a welder here, cause I can't get the vehicle there.

The deep tranny pan I ordered has a drain plug! Whoopee! I can't beleive that the mfg don't put one in. It sure is a mess getting that pan off. I'm also putting in an in line filter that I can change as well.


PS This is the vehicle.

20,000 pounds of gas guzzling heaven!



Link Posted: 10/6/2004 6:01:49 PM EST

Originally Posted By wkenneth1:
Left handed drill bits. If the bolts werent mangled going in it'll help. Home Depot has a pretty cheap set of easy-outs. Just in case the drill bit trick doesnt work.



I saw this on another site. Can you get these at home depot type stores?
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 6:03:15 PM EST
Here's a suggestion. Bolt the pan back on without the gasket. Move over about a half an inch and drill a fresh hole and tap new threads. Fill the old holes with gorilla snot. Cut new holes in the gasket and put it back on.
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 6:07:02 PM EST

Originally Posted By entropy:
I saw this on another site. Can you get these at home depot type stores?



I'd most likely try the 'wholesale tool warehouses' first.
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 6:15:03 PM EST

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................
.......................



heli-coils are after the other options don't work. You still have to get the broken bolts out.



bullshit, depends on your level of patience

me, i'd drill the fuckers to the heli-coil size straight off and be done with it...........................
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 6:18:57 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/6/2004 6:20:43 PM EST by AUT_BELLUM]
use craftsman reverse drill bit extractors, 4 in a box. DO NOT use cheap ez-outs, they are a BITCH to remove when they snap off inside your broken stud, and they will, trust me. don't forget to centerpunch or the bit will walk, and jack up the threads.
Link Posted: 10/6/2004 6:26:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/6/2004 6:28:08 PM EST by Garand_Shooter]

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:
drill, easy out, and chase threads.

upon reassembly use some never seeze.



+1

Read the instructions on the e-z outs and use the proper size, and buy good ones not chinese crap.
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 4:55:26 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 4:57:24 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 5:05:55 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:29:33 AM EST

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

A TIG welder is gonna charge you an arm and a leg to come lay under a rig and try to weld on 5 nuts overhead.

There is no sense in changing the oil if you are not gonna change the filter



I am adding an external filter, that hopefully will minimize future dropping of the pan.

See: www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page25.html
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:38:23 AM EST

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

Originally Posted By Pangea:
Here's a suggestion. Bolt the pan back on without the gasket. Move over about a half an inch and drill a fresh hole and tap new threads. Fill the old holes with gorilla snot. Cut new holes in the gasket and put it back on.






x2!
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:39:41 AM EST

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................
.......................



heli-coils are after the other options don't work. You still have to get the broken bolts out.



bullshit, depends on your level of patience

me, i'd drill the fuckers to the heli-coil size straight off and be done with it...........................



+1
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:39:59 AM EST

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................
.......................



heli-coils are after the other options don't work. You still have to get the broken bolts out.



bullshit, depends on your level of patience

me, i'd drill the fuckers to the heli-coil size straight off and be done with it...........................



Isn't drilling the broken bolts out just another method of removing them? Or are you having difficulty agreeing with 1GR?
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:42:30 AM EST

Originally Posted By wkenneth1:
Left handed drill bits. If the bolts werent mangled going in it'll help. Home Depot has a pretty cheap set of easy-outs. Just in case the drill bit trick doesnt work.




+1 the drill bits usually will get a bite and unscrew them while drilling. Smack the broken bolts with a punch to indent them in the center and it also will help shock them and make loosening them a tad easier.
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:44:31 AM EST
PB BLASTER
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 10:07:57 AM EST
Remember when drilling the bolts out keep the drill straight or square to the broken bolt. Use a center punch and get the hole started correctly in the center of the bolt. If the bolt is too jaggered to get the hole started straight then clean the bolt up as best you can us a stone to dress it flat or a larger size drill bit to take the high spots off. When drilling a broken bolt 75 % of the work comes before the drill bit gets hit the metal first time. TAKE YOUR TIME because you only get one chance to do it right then its move on to Helicoils.

Link Posted: 10/7/2004 10:11:53 AM EST

Originally Posted By Boomer:

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................
.......................



heli-coils are after the other options don't work. You still have to get the broken bolts out.



bullshit, depends on your level of patience

me, i'd drill the fuckers to the heli-coil size straight off and be done with it...........................



Isn't drilling the broken bolts out just another method of removing them? Or are you having difficulty agreeing with 1GR?



Drilling the bolt out and maybe having to retap the hole takes more time and skill.

When you install Helicoils you use a OVERSIZE drill bit right off the bat. You destory the old threads and bolt.
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 11:48:28 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 3:01:03 PM EST

Originally Posted By CAMPYBOB:
Left handed drill bits.

available at mscsupply.com or mcmaster-carr.com

do NOT buy cheap easy-outs. use a quality tap, too. if you manage to snap the tap off you'll REALLY be in a world of hurt! trust me, tap removers never work well for me (but, edm does!!!).

as gunrunner said, heilcoil or keensert as a last resort....and use kantseize or some similar anti-seize coating.



+2 (or three)

Left handed drill bits work on about 90% of broken bolts. On something easy onad coarse threaded like tranny bolts in aluminum, I'd expect closer to 100%.

The old bolts probably corroded due to dissimilar metals. Use a little anti-seize, and all new bolts.
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 6:04:05 PM EST

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:

Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER:

Originally Posted By TexRdnec:
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................
.......................



heli-coils are after the other options don't work. You still have to get the broken bolts out.



bullshit, depends on your level of patience

me, i'd drill the fuckers to the heli-coil size straight off and be done with it...........................



+1

Tx, my small sample size of problems concurs. I tired to drill the first one out. Center puch, used a craftsman drill-out bit. (Left Hended) Started a nice hole (used a transfer punch) Started the extractor portion, andi it just dug in and stalled the Makita drill.

Well, I decide to try a left handed bit. It, or I got off center. I am going to JB Weld this hole and redrill and install a heli coil

Try 2

Got the 5/16-18 heli coils, and ther was a misprint on the front of the package where it said to use a certain drill size. It had 8.3 mm on it. My MSC chart had drill size Q for the proper size. Well, it now looks like 21/64 was the right one, so the hole is a tiny bit to big, and doesn't tape soe good.

I'm thinkning JB weld and a Heli-COil for this as well. Degrease hole. Coat the coil with JB, and install.

Geez, thrity minute project has turned into a few days!!!!!
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