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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 4/25/2001 8:55:58 AM EST
I bought a Pre-ban Olympic arms Ar-15 from a dealer about 6 months ago and finally got out to shoot it the other day. Well to my surprise it wont fire a single shot.....it fires three at a time. So now I have this tri burst Ar-15 with no knowledge on what to do. Should i convert it back to semiauto? If so what parts are needed? Is there anyway I can legally keep it tri burst? Is there anyway to tell if it was made that way or if it was converted by a previous owner? Any help or input is greatly appreciated.
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 9:44:00 AM EST
Take it back to the dealer and bitch. Tell him you want it repaired or your money back, otherwise you are in posession of an illegal, unregistered machine gun. No way you can legally keep it unless it is just malfunctioning and you repair it. Look at the parts. Is there an autosear? Are they M16 parts? Where is your selector positioned when you are firing. Is it always 3 rounds, or does it varry. I need more info to determine why it is doing that.
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 9:47:56 AM EST
Sell it to me! [beer]
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 9:48:28 AM EST
Does it have a little hole drilled above the safety selector, with a small pin holding in a little chunk of metal and spring called an auto sear? If so, it's an illegal, unregistered machinegun receiver conversion. There's no way to make it a legal semi-auto, and it must be destroyed or surrendered to the police or ATF. If it's got a drop-in auto sear, but is otherwise an unmodified semi-auto receiver, you can remove and destroy or surrender the drop-in sear to make it a legal semi-auto. The full auto parts must come out. You can't keep it tri-burst or auto legally. If it's not an illegal receiver, then depending on what parts are installed, you'll need to grind down the existing parts to semi-auto specs, or replace them with semi-auto parts. The parts to be modified or replaced are: selector, hammer, trigger, disconnector and bolt carrier. The tri-burst has a second "burst" disconnector which must be modified as well.
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 10:31:28 AM EST
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 5:50:11 PM EST
I think it's probably a bad trigger. I had the same problem with my M1 Garand. It would shoot 2 rounds with one trigger pull. I had it refinished and the gunsmith who did the job didn't assemble it correctly. Took it to a different smith and he fixed it for free.
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 7:25:00 PM EST
i had the same thihng happed with a friends 1911 to light of a trigger job eneded up gpin ziiiiit instead of bang .... bang ... bang i dont know how he fixed it probly just added a new sear if u want to keep it u have to be a LEA or a class 2 manufacutore or a class 3 dealer and have to reg it as a post 89 MG dealer sample
Link Posted: 4/25/2001 7:38:55 PM EST
Hugger, Make sure you don't have m16 parts in it first, and the other recommended visual checks. But also try this. Separate your lower from your upper. Take your lower and hold it in your hands and pull the trigger(do not release it) now manually cock your hammer, pull it all the way back. (remember don't release the trigger yet) When you hear the hammer click you know its locked back. Now, release the trigger you were pulling, the hammer should jump slightly but be caught and stopped from jumping foward. If it fails this test, with ar15 parts, then you probably have bad internal part(s) or a receiver that is out of speck. Paul
Link Posted: 4/26/2001 6:21:46 AM EST
Here's the link to the M16/AR15 parts in the legal forum at the Old AR15.com. [url]http://old.ar15.com/docs/AR15-M16Parts/[/url] It has good pictures to compare to. I too, think your the victom of a butchered trigger job. But, just in case, see above link.
Link Posted: 4/26/2001 1:21:27 PM EST
I pulled the rifle apart and checked for any m16 parts and found none. Then i did the test that PJ suggested and it failed, when i manually cocked the hammer and released the trigger it did not catch the hammer. So it seems I may have some bad internal parts or it is a bad trigger job. I am going to talk to the dealer i bought it from and see if he is willing to pay for any repair's it may need. I thank you all that responded
Link Posted: 4/26/2001 5:52:21 PM EST
SWEET JESUS MAN! What ever you do, do not take that AR15 to the ATF and have it destroyed. There are plenty of shady characters like me that would take it off your hands for a reasonable price. DON'T EVER GIVE THE GOVERNMENT YOUR GUNS![spank]
Link Posted: 4/26/2001 8:41:03 PM EST
I would also recommend against firing the firearm until the issue is resolved. The hammer may be following the carrier forward on lockup resulting in a slamfire. Make sure you don't have a cheap stamped disconnector in your receiver or any parts that look like they may have been filed on. [:|]
Link Posted: 4/26/2001 9:48:05 PM EST
Had same problem a few year ago with a Bushmaster.Took it back to to them ,(2yrs after buying it) and they replaced the disconnector.Free of charge. Nice folks.
Link Posted: 4/27/2001 8:33:53 PM EST
I had an OLY preban that did the same thing except it didn't stop at two or three, it stopped when the mag was empty! There were some supprised people at the range the first time I let that happen. I did it about 5 or 6 more times until someone explained about slamfires. I bought a complete trigger set from OLY, and it stopped the auto-fire. I was glad that I didn't use a full Beta-C Mag to test it that day!
Link Posted: 4/29/2001 11:46:45 AM EST
Replace the disconnector. If you have a hammer, replace that while you're at it, too. 90% of the time this is caused by the hook on the disconnector being worn. 9% it's the hook on the hammer, and the other 1% it's the back of the hammer hitting the tail of the disconnector.
Link Posted: 4/30/2001 1:53:58 PM EST
About 2 years ago, a local gun store purchased a used semi HK91 and then re-sold it. When the new owner fired the rifle for the first time, it went full auto. To make the long story short, the rifle got confiscated by the local authorities and there was a huge BATF investigation.
Link Posted: 5/20/2001 7:09:29 PM EST
If there are no M-16 parts, then it probably has a defective hammer or disconnector causing it to slam fire. Changing these parts out should fix the problem. I'd have the dealer fix this if he will, since you bought a gun in good faith. I defiently wouldn't shoot the gun anymore until it's repaired as this is a dangerous situation.
Link Posted: 6/7/2001 6:38:03 PM EST
You need to determine if this gun is doing a consistent three-shot-burst or if it's just firing three shots more or less. Does it stop shooting with the trigger depressed? Don't drag the BATF into the pix. Start by working with your dealer. Most dealers will back up their sales of used guns if there's a mechanical problem.
Link Posted: 6/7/2001 7:37:22 PM EST
If PJ's hand cyceling test failed just go buy you a new hammer, disconnector, & trigger. The parts are not that expensive and believe me you cant afford the hammer following the carrier forward on lockup resulting in a slamfire. That can cost you even more money and even turn you into a fatality.
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