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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 5/20/2003 1:16:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/20/2003 5:30:12 PM EST by Boomholzer]
I bought a Savage short-action lightweight .308 in a factory assembled package ($370). I wanted a cheap .308 lightweight woods/beater bolt for hunting. I removed the factory-installed Simmons 8-point 3-9x40mm and weaver rings and put them on a new 10/22 I had purchased as a Christmas gift for the significant other. I replaced the weaver mounts with a Leupold rotary base and medium rings. I purchased a cheap Simmons 44Mag 6.5-20x44 ($144 from SWFA) to replace the even cheaper 8-point Simmons. [url]http://www.jobrelatedstuff.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=185015&page=1[/url] Here is the test subject for my first camo job. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=10607[/img] Materials purchased were: -Krylon Camo paint system -Acetone -Alcohol (Beer & Denatured) -Primer -220 and 330 sandpaper -3M masking tape -Pinstriping tape -razor blade Stuff I used but is optional: -2-component Epoxy -Great Stuff, Urethane in a can. -Lauer Weaponry DuraCoat Clear -Disposable airbrush & propellant [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12288[/img] The first step is to disassemble and clean everything. I used Acetone, a little Berryman’s (DON’T get that near your scope!) pressurized carb cleaner around the trigger group and scope mounts, and denatured alcohol for final whiping and between overnight primer coats. I spent by far the most time on prepping the stock. Everyone knows that Savage stocks are pieces of shit and this one was no different. There were many mold seams to remove, curves to clean up, dimples, etc. Besides that, the stock was just plain flimsy. I laid 2-component epoxy into the forearm all the way up the receiver bed. I was careful not to build up too much epoxy to interfere with the floated barrel. With the stock made substantially more rigid, I noticed that the hollow stock cavity had a cheesy piece of bead-foam shoved in it. I removed the piece of white bead foam and filled the cavity with urethane foam. Mask off any area of the stock bed that will contact the receiver. Do not build up to much paint/primer in the forearm to also interfere with the barrel. I also masked off the inside diameter of the forearm. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12289[/img] Once the rifle stock was adequately sanded and prepped, it was time to prime it. By now almost a week has passed so, so don't rush. It is easy but, it is better to break the parts up into small bits each evening. I used a sandable “automotive” primer in a spray bomb. I chose this because it was also dark grey instead of light grey. I figured any future chips in the finish would epose the "darker underside" and be less noticeable. The actual dark color of the primer is shown in the next pic. Yep, that is with the primer. Now in retrospect, I wished I would have used a REAL automotive primer…..like URO. I really feel that the weakness in the end finish is the primer’s adhesion to the metal and stock…….especially to that stock. That goofy graphite plastic has some strange properties. With any future applications of Lauer DuraCoat, I will probably skip the primer all together (although it did do a nice job of evening out the crappy stock). [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12290[/img] I applied and sanded about 7-8 coats to the rifle stock. Now, I am sure a higher quality stock (like Remington) will not require this amount of preparation. The Savage rifle stock has checkering by the grip and forearm, I was careful not to flood these areas with primer and not to leave primer dust from sanding in the divots before the next coat. Well laying on primer coats kind of avoid this area if your stock is checkered. While the stock was drying in-between coats, I took the time to prep the riflescope. You may [b]not[/b] want to leave so much of the scope exposed with the original finish (as I did in the end). I think it be nicer totally sprayed. Owning several AO scopes, I never use the markings anyway. In any case, be super careful in masking the lenses. I used automotive striping tape and quality 3M masking tape to acquire clean edges and no “leaking”. I went over each lens area 2x with masking tape also trying to keep the tape adhesive off of the lenses. If you spray the lens you'll damage the coating removing the paint. While the scope was drying with a light coat of primer (only a single coat), I went and degreased the barrel and action again. Be careful in the rags you choose to use. Terry-cloth towels or rags will leave allot of fibers behind. I used old cotton boxer underwear! You can see the leaves I was looking at while some paint dried. Watching paint dry is boring. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12292[/img] Once the action was clean and thoroughly free of oil and grease, I totally masked off the action. I needed a way to fasten the clean and taped action and barrel to the ceiling of my garage. Thanks to Skullboy (Ed), he had tipped me on using a 1” dowel through the scope mounts. Per his idea, I added handles to be able to move the barrel around if needed. Note that I wiped everything down with alcohol again once I got it hanging. Use a foam ear plug to plug the muzzle. Not shown is the masked bolt for I also camo'ed the bolt handle. I failed to figure out something to cover the shiney bolt. I will write Savage to inquire on buying a matte one. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12295[/img] Now you may not agree with the following procedure and that is fine. My method was to mask the receiver and use a grey Rust-Oleam “Hardhat” primer to prime the barrel. I did not metal prime the receiver. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12294[/img] My reasoning was that the bulk of the oils will reside around the receiver bolt. I planned on camo’ing this area however I planned to flash the colors in directly onto the clean metal. Again if it does chip, it won't expose that bright ugly light grey! This is the time where I am lacking in pictures and I am sure any readers have the most questions. Once the primer had all dried, the next day I “went to town” and was having so much fun I never took any pics in the process. I will start with the only template or stencil I used: the pieces of leaves in the following pic. As you can see, I already went and put a base coat of OD green on the masked scope. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12291[/img] Here is the process I used in creating the leafy pattern: I first added spots (like a Guernsey cow) of black, tan, and brown in small areas all over the green. I now had a green stock with crappy looking blobs on it. I tried to made the ratio of colors to area about 40% OD green, and 20% each for the remainder of the colors. Now this ratio will not apply to the end result…….this is just the first stage. I went over the colored blobs masking some of that color with the various leaves shown in the previous pic. For the first stage, I sprayed OD green while each differ color remained when I removed the leaf used as a mask. I repeated the addition of smaller blobs of various colors where I felt they fit in. Each time I went over the color with a different color while masking some of it with the leaves. I just kept doing this……..until the finished got a complicated layered look of different colors and leaf outlines. The leaves are all different colors and seem to blend nicely. NOTE: One has to be cautious not to flash to much overspray over other parts, this not only ruins patterns you already finished but the dry paint creates a rough crappy looking texture where it flashed.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:17:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/20/2003 5:45:44 PM EST by Boomholzer]
Here is what the scope looked like after the fist stage of adding colors: [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12293[/img] I repeated this process both on the primered stock and the primered rcvr/barrel until I achieved the pattern you see on the complete rifle. The camo paint dries very fast; I completed all of the camo pattern in one evening. I recommend you give the primer at least 12hrs to dry. [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12297[/img] I let the gun sit in the form you see about for a week. I then disassembled the pieces and hung them back up like they were during the paint and primer process. I again wiped everything down with alcohol (not acetone!) to put a layer of DuraCoat clear on the stock, barrel, receiver, and scope. The clear can be obtained from www.lauerweaponry.com and it would cost about $12-24 to clean a single weapon depending on the spray method and desired coating thickness. Read the Lauer Weaponry’s instructions for the application of the clear. If you do not have any spray equipment, pick up a hobbyist air brush kit (Tester’s) for about $20 from any hobby store. You only can spray about 1 oz at a crack but that is plenty to put a coat on the entire rifle. I was very happy with the addition of the clear. It gave more definition o the pattern and filled in any rough areas from excessive paint flash that I described earlier. It made the stock look and feel much more professional. The rule to applying the clear: Use minimal harder or catalyst. Apply in very light coats at least a foot away from the object. You should not be able to see any build up or even if the product is on the rifle. Keep moving and fanning. I put on about 15 light coats, most of the product was wasted as mist but I guess that about 2.5oz actually made it on the rifle. I let some of the clear flash into the receiver to completely “seal” the camo coating around the action. I will snap a pic post clear coat. The rifle is now fully reassembled. What would I do different if I re-did a Krylon camo-job? (well the next job will be 100% DuraCoat). -Use automotive primer or DuraCoat OD green as a primer. -Mask a minimal amount of the scope, probably over the rings with the scope mounted in proper position. -Spray the inside of the sun-shade Here is it all finished with the Duracoat clear outside: [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12310[/img] [img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/IG_LoadImage.asp?iImageUnq=12311[/img] Thanks again to Skullboy, Brasseater, and Mike from Lauer Weaponry Hope this was useful.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:18:04 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:18:33 PM EST
Sorry but red Xs on a white background isnt very tactical.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:27:50 PM EST
Camoflage is a relative term. Red Xs are excellent camoflage here but in a different enviroment would stick out kinda bad.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:29:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/20/2003 1:36:18 PM EST by Boomholzer]
sorry I think I fixed the red X's. Im also still fixing grammer errors.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:36:37 PM EST
All pics work except the last one[;)]
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 4:07:27 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 4:20:04 PM EST
Looks excellent Boom, those colors are a nice configuration. [beer]
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 4:37:37 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/20/2003 5:09:59 PM EST by Boomholzer]
Originally Posted By brasspile: Excellent job documenting your method! The closest I have done is "before", and "way after" photos. :) The foresight to use dark primer to avoid ugly chips is an Amazing Insight. My only question (in three parts): What brand of primer did you find that is so nicely charcoal? Why did you use the 'standard grey' primer on the barrel instead of the dark grey primer used on the stock? Do they make automotive primer in the dark charcoal grey shade? I bet if you lean that against the trunk of a tree, it would be a bit hard to see at a distance of 20 feet! (Photo Hint) This was great info, please post your next project using the DuraCoat system!
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[:D] The charcoal primer is rust-oleum automobile primer, it is advertised as sandable and I wanted that in order to fix the blemishes in the rifle stock. It comes in either light grey or dark grey. I used the standard grey primer on the action and bore because it was the rust-oleum "hard-hat" professional and is supposidly designed for bare metal (and my gun was blued, not parkerized). I would have preferred a darker primer but I thought this would adhere better. I could not find the same product in a darker color. I used it back in my roofing days for industrial venting and as far as spray-bombs go, its good shit. I did'nt trust the dark sandable stuff on the bare metal. With a parkerized finish it probably would not have mattered as much in the primer one used. All the automotive primers I ever sprayed are either creme colored or a soft pinkish color. I don't know of any darker brands. Usually car painters will mist on some black over the creme to look for variations in build so light colors are adventagious. The URO brand is a very light creme color. Even though these are lighter, I was experienced with them and know they have excellent adhesion qualities and will spray over almost anything without reacting. I'll try a tree photo whenn i get out to the woods next, all the trees on my property are tiny things. The best I could do was that faded electrical box! Thanks! I am anxious to try the DuraCoat camo. Ill email ya when I start. I would also like to OD green one of my parkerized .45s. Skullboy has a excellent documentary on his work. I should see if he will provide a link. He helped me out alot.
Link Posted: 6/29/2003 1:06:20 PM EST
Boom, Great job, thanks for the info!!!!!
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