I have a Del-Ton 20" upper on an Ameetec lower. The Del-Ton LPK I installed has a monstrous trigger pull. I'm not sure of the weight, but it's HEAVY.

What's a good way to fix this short of buying new parts or a match grade trigger pack? Any sanding or adjusting I can do?

Thanks.

I remember this one.

gun-talk.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=57;t=000269

Get a man to shoot it for you.

Buy an AK, then your AR trigger won't feel so bad.hippie.gif

Quoted: I remember this one. gun-talk.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=57;t=000269

Ok, I understand about bending the legs of the hammer spring, but why does he tell you to clip the right leg of the spring down to 1/4"?

...and would Brasso work as a polishing agent?

I just installed the Chip McCormick trigger module and tho I have not fired it yet it seems to be a huge improvement over the stock trigger. The module is a drop in affair, the pins are tight, you have to hammer them in, I used a small gunsmith hammer with a brass or plastic face. Not a ball peen hammer. Also the rear of the module that the safety bears on did come into contact with the side of the lower so I had to remove some metal there but not a problem. Could be my lower is tigher than most, Mega Machine marked Dalphon. The trigger is light and crisp enough for precision work but not too much so for hunting. I am very pleased. Problem is two things, the triggers are not cheap and for the moment there don't seem to be many available. I have the single stage curved trigger in part because that is what was available. http://www.chipmccormickcorp.com/merchant2/merchant.mv

Send it to a gunsmith and have him throw a trigger job on it...

Quoted: I remember this one. gun-talk.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=57;t=000269

+1

I did that on a couple of my AR's. Noticible difference.

Quoted: Send it to a gunsmith and have him throw a trigger job on it...

Be very careful doing that. Unless the guy has a very good understanding of the AR trigger, he could end up ruining it for you. AR triggers much unlike other sporting type triggers do NOT need to be stoned. The surface hardening on the AR trigger is very thin, stoning will go right through that and in the end it will either go full auto or just crap out. When tuning a factory AR trigger all you want to do is to *polish* the surfaces, not stone them. Not every gunsmith knows this.

The best trigger job you can do for an AR is to just simply replace the trigger altogether with a good aftermarket trigger. There are MANY available now.

Quoted: Quoted: I remember this one. gun-talk.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=57;t=000269 +1 I did that on a couple of my AR's. Noticible difference.

if only the millitary knew of this.

Shoot the piss out of it.

After a few thousand rounds it will smooth out nicely

what is the name of the yellow painted spring sets you can buy off brownell's?  That's what I used, it greatly lightens the trigger pull.

Quoted: what is the name of the yellow painted spring sets you can buy off brownell's?  That's what I used, it greatly lightens the trigger pull.

JP trigger springs


some problems with light primer strikes



easier to simply install a new trigger

+1 on the CMC single stage...I love mine

RRA two stage is good for the budget minded.

Quoted: Quoted: I remember this one. gun-talk.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=57;t=000269 Ok, I understand about bending the legs of the hammer spring, but why does he tell you to clip the right leg of the spring down to 1/4"?

You bend the legs of the trigger spring, and clip one leg of the hammer spring.
I had an excessively heavy M1Sales hammer spring on my last build. After following these instructions,and using forward pressure on the cocked hammer to manually wear its contact with the trigger,I now have a pretty good,reasonably light trigger. It fires my reloads reliably even with the hardest CCI primers,and still reliably ignites Wolf,Remington and Winchester factory ammo.

im sent.