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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/25/2005 4:13:53 AM EDT
I know it is always best to buy a car near the end of the month. But is there a generally accepted best day (weekday or weekend) and time (during the day or evening, maybe an hour before they close) to buy one?
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:24:35 AM EDT
tag
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:27:55 AM EDT
I found it best to drive by at night and find the car you want. Then watch it and see how long it has been sitting there. The longer it sits, the better the deal you get. I did this on a 96 dakota years ago. Sticker was 14,900. I watched it for a while (45 days or so) walked in and offered them 11k cash. Done deal in 30 minutes.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:34:11 AM EDT
where's LordTrader when you need him?

he posted a sorta 'how to' article about buying cars a while back.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:34:59 AM EDT
Dude. I've worked at dealerships for years. There is no good time of day, month, or year. The desk managers have the same cocky attitude all the time.

Your negotiating skills are the only variable.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:44:23 AM EDT
I have read to go in, find a car you would take for the right price, but don't want. Low ball an offer, work with them for a few hours, when they won't take your lowball, walk out.

Come back a cpl days later for the car you want.

Start working it, keep them on it for hours. Come in a little later in the evening, about an hour before close. Keep them past close.

For me, the last 2 cars I bought. Each took about 10 minutes. My BMW, I knew what I would pay for it. I told the sales guy. He said, my manager will say no. I said go ask him. He wouldn't. I told him there was now way I was paying what they were asking and to tell the manager my offer. AFter about 6 times of telling him, he went and got the manager. We got done in 3 minutes.

When I bought my wifes ford explorer, I had access to the dallas auction info. Went to the dealership, looked at a gold one. Nice, but a little more miles than I wanted for the price. Went backa month later, car was still there. Drove it again, just as a test vehicle. Before I left, the manager came up to me and told me he had the car for 45 days, and it was going to auction. He said I could have it for what he would sell it to his sales guy, $550 over what he paid. He pulled out his invoice from auction. It was the same price I knew he paid from seeing that car on the auction wire. He sold it to me as a certified vehicle. We got done in about 10 minutes.

TXL
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:47:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/25/2005 4:49:03 AM EDT by TomJefferson]
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 5:34:56 AM EDT
You might try this too
1800vehicles.com/
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 5:46:49 AM EDT
tag
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 5:50:12 AM EDT
Definitely just before close, anyday. Dealers are always looking to add one more to the board.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 5:54:55 AM EDT
You can usually get the best deals by dealing with the dealerships internet or fleet sales departments. These guys seem to get the most leeway with making deals without all the BS of having to talk to their managers. I got my current truck this way, I found one I liked online and made contact thru email, about 20 minutes later the salesman called me back and I set up an appointment for the next morning. I went in and he gave me a price of 17k on a truck that was stickered as 21k without me even having to try and deal, when we couldn't get the payments right where I wanted them he showed me a used truck that was identical to the one I wanted and knocked it from 15800 to 13k without me saying a word. I will definately go that route again next time I look for a vehicle.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 5:57:15 AM EDT
Someone ought to put a "how to buy a car" thread in the Cars forum and get a tack on it.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 5:58:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/25/2005 6:00:02 AM EDT by HELOBRAVO]
In '97 I bought a truck. I did the research using a book (iforgot the name) which the same info is probably free online somewhere
It told how to figure their cost, offer 500 more than they paid, walk if they don't agree, go another dealer.
Now I'm shopping again and EBAY has some big dealers with killer prices and guarantees that you don't buy if you don't like. Very high sales and close to 100% feedback.

EAT: 99.99999999% of car salesmen are scum of the earth.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 6:11:55 AM EDT
With the family price plan the time is NOW.

I just bought an 06 F250 crew cab, King Ranch, sticker price almost $52,000.
I gave $42,300, and got 2.9% financing.

No haggle, no bs, this is the price.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 7:34:39 AM EDT
My Dad has been known to contact every dealer within 100 miles and ask them to submit a fax bid. he claims the best time to buy is the week after Christmas. And pay in full for the car (no loan).

GunLvr
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 7:39:26 AM EDT
tag

what we have learned is to go, look at a few things, then leave and come back another day--the more you come look, the more willing they are to deal
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 7:40:38 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 2:47:47 PM EDT
tag
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 2:55:59 PM EDT
TRUST ME, The time is NOW.

It will not get any better than this family plan that ALL of the big three are offering.

My buddy bought one today, my other buddy has them looking for him one.

THEY ARE PRICED CHEAP.

My bank showed me GMAC rate sheet.......they have 0% on some models up to 60 months.

Low prices and cheap money.........what else could you want?

Link Posted: 8/25/2005 7:11:55 PM EDT

Originally Posted By krpind:
TRUST ME, The time is NOW.

It will not get any better than this family plan that ALL of the big three are offering.

My buddy bought one today, my other buddy has them looking for him one.

THEY ARE PRICED CHEAP.

My bank showed me GMAC rate sheet.......they have 0% on some models up to 60 months.

Low prices and cheap money.........what else could you want?




A car that won't fall apart after 3 years.

I will never again buy a car from the Big 3 - every time I've done it I've been burned. Plus my money goes to support anti-freedom union thugs.

Link Posted: 8/25/2005 7:13:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Greywolf2112:

Originally Posted By krpind:
TRUST ME, The time is NOW.

It will not get any better than this family plan that ALL of the big three are offering.

My buddy bought one today, my other buddy has them looking for him one.

THEY ARE PRICED CHEAP.

My bank showed me GMAC rate sheet.......they have 0% on some models up to 60 months.

Low prices and cheap money.........what else could you want?




A car that won't fall apart after 3 years.

I will never again buy a car from the Big 3 - every time I've done it I've been burned. Plus my money goes to support anti-freedom union thugs.




+1

I love the Japanese and the Swedes
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 10:49:36 PM EDT
My last three personal trucks not counting the one I just bought, never had to go to the shop even ONE TIME.

98 Dodge one ton......225000 miles, the only problem was a fuel solenoid.(we fixed it)

00 F350 Crew cab Lariat.....55000 miles not even a brake pad change.

03 F250.....Crew cab Lariat 35000 miles and not even a brake pad on this one either.

I buy a new truck every 3 years and have had GREAT luck.

06 F250.....400 miles....time will tell.

Link Posted: 8/25/2005 11:24:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Greywolf2112:

Originally Posted By krpind:
TRUST ME, The time is NOW.

It will not get any better than this family plan that ALL of the big three are offering.

My buddy bought one today, my other buddy has them looking for him one.

THEY ARE PRICED CHEAP.

My bank showed me GMAC rate sheet.......they have 0% on some models up to 60 months.

Low prices and cheap money.........what else could you want?




A car that won't fall apart after 3 years.

I will never again buy a car from the Big 3 - every time I've done it I've been burned. Plus my money goes to support anti-freedom union thugs.




Although I don't like union thugs either, my 94 S-10 Blazer has done pretty well for being the piece of crap people say they are. Only major failures so far are the alternator, the ignition coil and the heater core. I drive it like a maniac, off road in the desert, slam on the gas and the brakes, and generally beat the shit out of it. 140,000 miles and still going strong. I think I need to get the transmission rebuilt.
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 11:34:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/25/2005 11:35:53 PM EDT by warlord]
Go during a period when the dealer traffic is light, during the weekdays in the mornings. Or during or after some really nasty weather, when you're the only one going thru the dealership doors. Avoid nice sunny days, because the dealer will have plenty of other people to sell their cars to.

And also bring your girlfriend/wife, and a friend, mom, etc. It makes it doubly hard for a salesman to sell to you because (s)he, has to be talking to all of those people, and not just you by your lonesome-self.
Link Posted: 8/26/2005 1:02:44 PM EDT
www.carbuyingtips.com nuff said. Great website with tons of information about the other side of the table.

e.g. $300 for $20 worth of Scotch Guard
$150 for $20 window etching
$150 for $30 worth of pin striping.


The internet has changed car buying forever, just like the travel industry. You can get a car at invoice. Dealers actually pay less than invoice for a car. The manufacturers deducts delaer prep from the invoice.

Link Posted: 8/26/2005 1:11:40 PM EDT
Not Saturday, that's for sure. Probably not Monday, either, since the hacks have been getting their asses chewed all morning in the "sales meeting" and are all pissed and bitter. I would surmise that during regular business hours on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday is the best time. I bought my '98 F150 new in under an hour on a Tuesday evening. However, I bought our '94 Eagle Vision in 45 minutes, with a trade-in, on a Saturday afternoon!

Rule #1 of negotiating a deal on a new car (or anything else, for that matter): Don't be afraid to say "No" and walk out. You are in control. They want your money WAY more than you think you want their car.
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