brake clean, it leaves no residue, and is basically the same thing as gun scrubber only you can find it on sale for $.99 a can at auto zone, or the like

[b]thedave1164[/b] is absolutly correct!

Be sure and get the tall cans. More spray per pay.

Denatured alcohol. Buy it by the gallon.

In addition to Brake Kleen and Denatured Alcohol, I've used the following...

MEK.
[b]M[/b]ethyl [b]E[/b]thyl [b]K[/b]etone

DMSO

[b]D[/b]i-[b]M[/b]ethyl [b]S[/b]ulf [b]O[/b]xide was originally used as a degreasing agent.

Also, watch what types of brake cleaner you choose. I've found some labeled []ubrake and electric motor cleaner[/u] that was the [b]sh*t[/b] (and was plastic-safe), and other brands that left a whitish haze after drying.

I know the local Wal-Mart has acetone (labeled as such) in the paint-thinner/solvent section.  Home Depot, too, of course.

I like it because it dries [b]fast[/b].  Unfortunately, that means it makes whatever you're cleaning get cold.  If you want to paint with Gun-Kote or the like, you should warm the parts up again before doing so.

If you’re talking about painting metal, acetone works great.  However, use it carefully. It is extremely flammable and can cause flash fires.  Also try to minimize breathing its fumes or getting it on your skin.

If you’re talking about rebluing something (obviously not aluminum), you might want to look at Brownells Dicro-Clean.  Even the slightest residue can ruin a reblue job.

If it is metal or plastic and can get wet, "Simple Green" works great and is bio-degradable and water based.  If it is something you want to repaint,like a Permasilk mag you want to sell as new, then heat it in the over at 150 or so to dry.

MEK and 1-1-1 Tric are great but nasty and unhealthy to breathe.

I always just use dish soap.  All my home anodizing and park jobs turn out fine.

If you are talking about aluminum, nitric acid does a dandy job.  Of course, you have to find a source.

I hose off most of the grease with brake cleaner, then boil the parts in a pot of water with a tablespoon or two of TSP.  Be sure to rinse well.

brake clean leaves nothing to rinse or dry off.

I agree with most of the methods listed.

I use a 2 step process for dirty parts.

[b]First: [u]Test[/u] all items to be cleaned to be sure they are not attacked by any of your cleaning agents.[/b] Find an area that won't exposed for testing [i]on each different type of material[/i]. Apply a spot of each agent with a Q-tip and wait an hour. Inspect for discoloration or melting, better safe than sorry later. [i]Edit: Note - this step should be done anytime you switch brands of cleaners, likewise I have found that not all AR pistol grips/handguards are made from the same material - so test any new cleaning juice on each to be sure![/i]

[b]Second:[/b] Use [u]Carburetor cleaner[/u] to remove oil based buildup - Spray liberally using it as a rinse - scrub as needed with tooth or brass bristle brush. - this can be rinsed off with WD40 then parts blown off with shop air. The WD40 is not required - but tends to eliminate smudge marks from where the Carb clear was drying.

[b]Third:[/b] [u]Brake cleaner[/u] - spray liberally again, to hose off any traces of oil. - hang parts or blow with shop air. - [b][i]From this point on you must be careful - those parts are naked! - handle with clean gloves and begin your finishing operations. - In some areas of the country surface rust can start forming in only 30 minutes!

If you must stop (more than an hour) - use WD40 to coat parts, then degrease with brake cleaner when ready to resume. - If parts won't be finished for for more than a week - wrap in paper towels lightly soaked in WD40.

[size=4][blue]Good Luck![/blue][/size=4]

I use purple power to remove cosmoline from wood. I wear gloves and rinse it off with windex

The ARMY forbids simply green for use on its rifles.
It leaves the metal bare and unprotected.
TXL

MEK, IIRC, that is some really nasty stuff, may want to see a MSDS on that one first.

MM419

Suggest using a multi step process.  

Use Isopropyl Alcohol last.

Work with small quantities outdoors.

and, uh, don't smoke or work near any another ignition source while doing the cleaning.

If you're planning on using a degreasing, water-based detergent such as Simple Green or something comparable, be sure to read the label before you buy it.

Many of these should not be used on aluminum. They will say so, if that's the case.

It should be noted that DMSO will penetrate the skin and take anything it is mixed with directly into the body. Therefore, I don't know if I would recommend that anyone use it as a cleaner. You could wind up with a good bit of your lead and gunpowder residue flowing through your bloodstream. It is, however, a great therapeutic agent, good for all sorts of traumatic injuries -- but that's because it penetrates the skin.

I have seen it do some miraculous things with healing injuries. Anyone interested should do a little research on the net before they try it.

Keep in mind that DMSO is a universal solvent(as stated by wolfman97), and ANY virus, toxin, bacteria, etc on your skin where the DMSO is applied will get a free ride into your body.
I'll personally stick to a sports cream. I agree with the brake cleaner...wear protective gloves using solvents.

More important than just wearing "gloves" is the need to wear the right gloves.  Some solvents pass through some glove materials like they weren't even there. Latex is almost useless.  Even thick latex.  Nitrile seems to be a bit better.  You should probably buy the thick black gloves specifically made for working with strippers.  They are clumsy and more expensive, but they won't dissolve on your hands or allow stuff to pass right through them either.

Also important (EYE protection and a good respirator rated for Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC's)  You'll need to change the cartridges on these things fairly regularly as they absorb stuff out of the air while in unsealed storage.