User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 11:39:40 AM EDT
[#1]
I had a cracked basement wall from floor to ceiling.
It started leaking water, I had StayDry fix it. If i remember correctly, it was around $400. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:15:43 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had a cracked basement wall from floor to ceiling. It started leaking water, I had StayDry fix it. If i remember correctly, it was around $400. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:17:03 PM EDT
[#3]
You talking about water reacting urethane grout injection?
How long is the crack? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:19:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You talking about water reacing urethane grout injection? How long is the crack? If I did this myself I would do the entire 9 feet of hairline crack..........I assume a pro would do the same??? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:29:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, it is nine feet long from top to bottom but the leak is at the bottom........not bad yet but there is a leak. If I did this myself I would do the entire 9 feet of hairline crack..........I assume a pro would do the same??? I'm usually around 65-75 dollars per linear foot, unless I get one over 500 linear feet or so, then I can get it lower. I do all commercial/industrial, someone set up for residential may be able to come in a little lower, but that would be a good ballpark to start with. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:31:21 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had a cracked basement wall from floor to ceiling. It started leaking water, I had StayDry fix it. If i remember correctly, it was around $400. OP if you got any other questions about it feel free to ask. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:35:25 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
I have done this myself in my other home but I am not a pro and wasn't very cosmetically acceptable at it. I have a small leak starting in a hairline crack in the basement, poured concrete wall. I know the injection method of filling the crack and it does well but how much would a pro generally charge to repair something fairly simple like that? Thanks for any info. 
I now have a third wall that has a couple tiny leaks that will only get worse. A friend who knows more than me says we also should fix it from the outside and he doesn't think anything we do from the inside will seal it permanently. I'd like to know of an option to fix it on the inside but not sure if that will hold the water from the outside eroding the foundation again. Good luck! |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:37:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, they should. I'm a pro installer, crack injection is the biggest part of my business, sitting at my computer writing quotes for it right now actually. In my experience there is a high chance that the water is gonna chase up the crack once you start injecting it. I'm usually around 65-75 dollars per linear foot, unless I get one over 500 linear feet or so, then I can get it lower. I do all commercial/industrial, someone set up for residential may be able to come in a little lower, but that would be a good ballpark to start with. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:44:01 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a poured foundation and had two walls that were leaking fixed up from the outside for a lot of money.
I now have a third wall that has a couple tiny leaks that will only get worse. A friend who knows more than me says we also should fix it from the outside and he doesn't think anything we do from the inside will seal it permanently. I'd like to know of an option to fix it on the inside but not sure if that will hold the water from the outside eroding the foundation again. Good luck! It cured the problem for about 3 years before we moved out but I don't if it has held up since then........it did work though. I was messy though because I am an amateur. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:44:52 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thats a good price. Looked at their site, they seem to be set up for residential, if you are looking for a pro, someone like that would be the ticket. OP if you got any other questions about it feel free to ask. Should I just do this myself like at the old house? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:46:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So it could be roughly $600? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes, they should. I'm a pro installer, crack injection is the biggest part of my business, sitting at my computer writing quotes for it right now actually. In my experience there is a high chance that the water is gonna chase up the crack once you start injecting it. I'm usually around 65-75 dollars per linear foot, unless I get one over 500 linear feet or so, then I can get it lower. I do all commercial/industrial, someone set up for residential may be able to come in a little lower, but that would be a good ballpark to start with. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:50:57 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks...........what is the shelf of the two part chemical mix? Should I just do this myself like at the old house? How did you do it on your last house, and what product did you use? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:51:05 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Could be, just depends. Like I said though, I do all commercial/industrial, mostly water and wastewater utilities, so I have to use products that can be used in drinking water systems, which cost more. Someone who does residential may not have those requirements, so it could be less, but at least gives you something to start with. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:51:53 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it's a hydrophilic urethane it should just be one part, a hydrophobic will be a one part with an accelerator. It depends on how its stored, unopened they can last a long time, once it's opened and exposed to moisture, probably like a month or two tops. It's pretty humid down in S. Texas, so they don't last long once you open a bucket. How did you do it on your last house, and what product did you use? Ok...........it's "SealBoss Foam and Accelerator,Water Stop Kit". You mix at 5:1 and I bought the chemicals in August, 2011. Standard injection system with those plugs you put into drilled holes, etc. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:53:48 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Let me go look........................ |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:54:06 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
On my old house a few years back I did it myself, in fact I still have a lot of the ingredients at home, don't know how long the shelf life is though. It cured the problem for about 3 years before we moved out but I don't if it has held up since then........it did work though. I was messy though because I am an amateur. I'm going to be moving next year but want to take care of this now while it's still a small problem and I don't want to sink thousands into the project as I'll never get that back. I have one hairline crack that originates by the basement glass block window and the other near the gutter drain pipe that empties into the y-pipe that my backyard sewer drains into and goes into the drain tile pipe out to the street. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 12:56:45 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When you get a chance if you could let me know that name of what you used that would help out a lot. I'm going to be moving next year but want to take care of this now while it's still a small problem and I don't want to sink thousands into the project as I'll never get that back. I have one hairline crack that originates by the basement glass block window and the other near the gutter drain pipe that empties into the y-pipe that my backyard sewer drains into and goes into the drain tile pipe out to the street. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 1:00:54 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
I have done this myself in my other home but I am not a pro and wasn't very cosmetically acceptable at it. I have a small leak starting in a hairline crack in the basement, poured concrete wall. I know the injection method of filling the crack and it does well but how much would a pro generally charge to repair something fairly simple like that? Thanks for any info. If you have water behind the wall, fixing a crack isn't going to do anything to solve your issue. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 1:01:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just as a quick way to tell, if you can shake the bucket and it's still liquid, it's fine to use. If you're unsure, mix a small amount with a few drops of water and see if it foams up. Thanks for the water test!! |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 1:09:29 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Let me go look........................ Ok...........it's "SealBoss Foam and Accelerator,Water Stop Kit". You mix at 5:1 and I bought the chemicals in August, 2011. Standard injection system with those plugs you put into drilled holes, etc. Would it be possible to take a pic of the label and the packers you have? I just want to see what you're working with. Also, how did you inject it last time? Did you have an airless pump or did you use one of the manual grease gun type? Sorry I have a lot of questions, I know you said standard injection system but there are a ton of different types of packers and injection methods. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 1:27:41 PM EDT
[#21]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2017 1:57:20 PM EDT
[#22]
99% of the time, basement water comes from surface runoff of stormwater
when they back-filled your basement walls with dirt, they dumped in badly compacted fill. over the years, the fill settles and creates a depression water ponds in the depression and soaks down through that shitty fill the height of the water in the fill makes a high pressure on the back of the wall, which forces the water through the wall the way to fix the problem is to build up a soil berm called a soil curb that keeps the water away from the fill and add extensions to your downspouts and regrade your lawn or add French drains to direct water away from the house all reinforced concrete has hairline cracks and it's porous anyway trying to block the water from inside is a losing game, especially since it will have 8 or so feet of pressure head on it |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:33:13 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know SealBoss pretty well. 2011 is pretty old, all of the formulas have changed since then. It's definitely hydrophobic if it has an accelerator, likely their 1510 grout. Has it been opened? You can try mixing a little bit in a cup with a small amount of water and see if it foams up. If it's unopened, then leave it that way, just shake it and see if it's still liquid. Would it be possible to take a pic of the label and the packers you have? I just want to see what you're working with. Also, how did you inject it last time? Did you have an airless pump or did you use one of the manual grease gun type? Sorry I have a lot of questions, I know you said standard injection system but there are a ton of different types of packers and injection methods. 
Yes, I am an old guy. It was opened and used back in 2011 when I repaired the crack in our old house we moved out of. I used a manual grease pump and am thinking I'll just have to buy all new stuff if I do it again myself. How much do you need to do a standard 9 foot (maybe 10 foot considering curving of the crack) chemical wise. I wasted A LOT of that gallon mixture kit I purchased back in 2011. Plus, how do I get rid of the old stuff? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:33:50 AM EDT
[#24]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:35:43 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
99% of the time, basement water comes from surface runoff of stormwater when they back-filled your basement walls with dirt, they dumped in badly compacted fill. over the years, the fill settles and creates a depression water ponds in the depression and soaks down through that shitty fill the height of the water in the fill makes a high pressure on the back of the wall, which forces the water through the wall the way to fix the problem is to build up a soil berm called a soil curb that keeps the water away from the fill and add extensions to your downspouts and regrade your lawn or add French drains to direct water away from the house all reinforced concrete has hairline cracks and it's porous anyway trying to block the water from inside is a losing game, especially since it will have 8 or so feet of pressure head on it But this hairline crack has developed a leak when it rains heavily in spring thaw time. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:42:51 AM EDT
[#26]
If you have water coming in you need to address the drainage problem, all poured walls crack, but the membrane along with a good footer drain should make it so no water gets in.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:44:35 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
99% of the time, basement water comes from surface runoff of stormwater when they back-filled your basement walls with dirt, they dumped in badly compacted fill. over the years, the fill settles and creates a depression water ponds in the depression and soaks down through that shitty fill the height of the water in the fill makes a high pressure on the back of the wall, which forces the water through the wall the way to fix the problem is to build up a soil berm called a soil curb that keeps the water away from the fill and add extensions to your downspouts and regrade your lawn or add French drains to direct water away from the house all reinforced concrete has hairline cracks and it's porous anyway trying to block the water from inside is a losing game, especially since it will have 8 or so feet of pressure head on it Ain't nobody got time for digging up 40 year old footer drains. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:55:34 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't even have a cell phone to take pictures.
Yes, I am an old guy. It was opened and used back in 2011 when I repaired the crack in our old house we moved out of. I used a manual grease pump and am thinking I'll just have to buy all new stuff if I do it again myself. How much do you need to do a standard 9 foot (maybe 10 foot considering curving of the crack) chemical wise. I wasted A LOT of that gallon mixture kit I purchased back in 2011. Plus, how do I get rid of the old stuff? Shouldn't take much for one 9 ft crack, assuming it's no bigger than 1/16" wide. 1/2 gallon should more than cover it, but it may not hurt to have a gallon to cover for waste, as I'm sure you already know there will be some. It's messy work even for me and I'm a professional. Sometimes for hairlines I like to take a grinder with a segmented diamond wheel and route out the crack a little bit, and then smear some hydraulic cement over it to help hold the grout in better, you can pick up hydraulic cement at home depot. Be wary, mix it in small batches, it cures fast. You don't have to do this, but it can help make it a little less messy sometimes. To get rid of the old stuff, pour what you have left into a 5 gallon bucket, set it outside on a piece of plastic, mix in some accelerator, and a little water, and let it foam up and cure. Do this somewhere outside, it is gonna foam up a lot, this stuff can expand up to 20-25 times its original liquid volume uninhibited. Once it's cured, it's inert and can be put in the dumpster. If you want to do it yourself and have any other questions, feel free to PM or update the thread, I'm subscribed to it. Call up SealBoss using their 1-800 number on their site, or just order directly from the link I posted if you know what you need. They're good people and will help you out, just know hey are in Southern Cali, pacific time zone, so don't call too early. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:55:54 AM EDT
[#29]
This is embarrassing...............just got a call from my builder and he said to stop what I am thinking of doing and this is covered under warranty.........he gave me the name and number of the subcontractor to set up a repair appointment.
I had no idea this was under warranty and had casually mentioned it to my builder............he lives in my subdivision. So, all this thinking on my part was stupid............appears a pro will fix it under warranty.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 8:57:32 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No problem, if that kit I linked is what you have then I know what it is. Shouldn't take much for one 9 ft crack, assuming it's no bigger than 1/16" wide. 1/2 gallon should more than cover it, but it may not hurt to have a gallon to cover for waste, as I'm sure you already know there will be some. It's messy work even for me and I'm a professional. Sometimes for hairlines I like to take a grinder with a segmented diamond wheel and route out the crack a little bit, and then smear some hydraulic cement over it to help hold the grout in better, you can pick up hydraulic cement at home depot. Be wary, mix it in small batches, it cures fast. You don't have to do this, but it can help make it a little less messy sometimes. To get rid of the old stuff, pour what you have left into a 5 gallon bucket, set it outside on a piece of plastic, mix in some accelerator, and a little water, and let it foam up and cure. Do this somewhere outside, it is gonna foam up a lot, this stuff can expand up to 20-25 times its original liquid volume uninhibited. Once it's cured, it's inert and can be put in the dumpster. If you want to do it yourself and have any other questions, feel free to PM or update the thread, I'm subscribed to it. Call up SealBoss using their 1-800 number on their site, or just order directly from the link I posted if you know what you need. They're good people and will help you out, just know hey are in Southern Cali, pacific time zone, so don't call too early. I am going to print this out for future reference down the road. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 9:00:54 AM EDT
[#31]
If you have water leaking into your basement, fix it from the outside. Filling the crack isn't going to resolve the water problem.
The fix is usually simple. Check out where your gutters are draining the water, and keep the water away from your house. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 9:13:26 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have water leaking into your basement, fix it from the outside. Filling the crack isn't going to resolve the water problem. The fix is usually simple. Check out where your gutters are draining the water, and keep the water away from your house. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2017 12:39:29 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is embarrassing...............just got a call from my builder and he said to stop what I am thinking of doing and this is covered under warranty.........he gave me the name and number of the subcontractor to set up a repair appointment. I had no idea this was under warranty and had casually mentioned it to my builder............he lives in my subdivision. So, all this thinking on my part was stupid............appears a pro will fix it under warranty. 
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
