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Posted: 11/19/2011 12:30:50 PM EDT
So I am trying to figure out what size copper lug I need to solder on the end of some cables I can't take out of where they are at. Im not a electrician so pardon my ignorance. I measured the strands of the cables with a caliper and they are about .310 inches in diameter. Am I correct in saying I need a size 0 lug? Something like this.



Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:34:39 PM EDT
Yep,

Easy way to solder them is place the jug in a vise with the cup facing up. Heat with a propane or mapp gas torch and drop in solder. With solder in cup melted place in wire that has been preheated.

Let cool and place a crimp it a very important or strong connection is needed. Clean and heat shrink as needed.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:37:54 PM EDT
This would be on a vehicle so I will have my brother in law hold the lug with a pair of vice grips while I heat it and the solder inside it. Then I will put a couple drops of flux on the cable strands and slowly put them inside the lug so the solder will get wicked up into the strands. Finish off with some heat shrink.

Guess i will have to go to a electrical supply place for some size 0 lugs.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:38:12 PM EDT
I would recommend crimp FIRST, and then solder and heat shrink.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:40:20 PM EDT
I tin the wire, tin the lug, crimp the wire, and reflow.

That shit will only come apart if abused.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:42:39 PM EDT
I dont have a crimper and don;t want to shell out the cash being how its a 1 time use. Vehicle doesn;t get abused so I would think it should be OK with just solder.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:43:34 PM EDT
Crimping the connector will make for a more durable connection as there would not be the tendency for the strands to break at the end of the solider joint. The trick is you must crimp it correctly with the right tool
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:46:31 PM EDT
As long as you have a good solder joint I don't see an issue with not having a crimp. Make sure the wire is secured when finished so that there is not a lot of vibration at the joint.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 12:52:48 PM EDT
Solder is NOT structural. Crimp that bitch.
Link Posted: 11/19/2011 1:00:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/19/2011 1:00:49 PM EDT by BadLuther]

Originally Posted By Chuy123:
I dont have a crimper and don;t want to shell out the cash being how its a 1 time use. Vehicle doesn;t get abused so I would think it should be OK with just solder.

Find a commercial/industrial store locally that sells batteries. Often they crimp it
for free or for next to nothing. You want them crimped first, then solder.
Link Posted: 11/20/2011 12:44:56 AM EDT
Definitely crimp first. A welding supply store would be one option for getting that done.
Link Posted: 11/20/2011 1:06:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/20/2011 1:09:38 AM EDT by junkxp]
I ran out of higher silver i've used for years but 62/36/2 is easy to come by. Either before or after crimping will work with rosen core and a torch or big iron.

Just don't use any of that rohs shit. Plumbing flux is a little corosive but shouldn't have a problem here.
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