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Posted: 9/30/2012 7:37:21 PM EDT
I've got a dent on my drivers door of my 71 challenger. It is right on the crash bar. It is the only dent on my car so I really don't want to buy one. I was hoping someone would rent it to me.

Link Posted: 9/30/2012 8:00:42 PM EDT
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PO_3pKXYMk[/youtube]

When seeing this topic my first thought was WTF could possibly be an automotive application for stud welding?

See video
Link Posted: 9/30/2012 8:24:31 PM EDT
Take a pic of it and post it for me.
Link Posted: 9/30/2012 8:33:45 PM EDT
Quoted:
Take a pic of it and post it for me.




Its in/under the red area under the door handle. The crash bar is directly behind it.
Link Posted: 9/30/2012 9:27:35 PM EDT
I can't see damage very well.


Build your own. Take 2" wide metal strips and tack them to the damage area. Then pull the dent out. You can use a vice grip adapter to slide hammer to do this.

It could easily run $50-100 bucks for shipping both ways to borrow a stud gun. Your about 1/3rd the way of buying one at that point.

Or take it to a local shop and pay them to pull it for you. If they just pull it, no finish work, it might not run that much.

Is the crash bar bent? If it is, that's major. You may think about replacing the door if so.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 9/30/2012 9:41:56 PM EDT
Quoted:
I can't see damage very well.


Build your own. Take 2" wide metal strips and tack them to the damage area. Then pull the dent out. You can use a vice grip adapter to slide hammer to do this.

It could easily run $50-100 bucks for shipping both ways to borrow a stud gun. Your about 1/3rd the way of buying one at that point.

Or take it to a local shop and pay them to pull it for you. If they just pull it, no finish work, it might not run that much.

Is the crash bar bent? If it is, that's major. You may think about replacing the door if so.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


I paid $100 for the door and it came with everything. A brand new door skin (what you weld to the frame) is like $350. So if I have to I will plasma out the crash bar section and weld something else in there. I'll probably do it myself since I hate paying people to do anything for me.
Link Posted: 10/1/2012 4:15:15 AM EDT
Harbor Freight has a stud welder kit with the gun, studs, and slide hammer for about $100

http://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-98357.html
Link Posted: 10/1/2012 9:46:41 AM EDT
Thats not a bad deal. I've got a mig and a slidehammer, but my worry is that my mig even on the lowest heat setting would burn through. I'd assume a spot gun can get lower temps?
Link Posted: 10/1/2012 12:20:10 PM EDT
A stud gun has only 1 setting. When you press the trigger it turns on for about half a second to weld the stud to the metal.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 10/6/2012 7:56:20 PM EDT
Got the dent pulled pulled and a pretty good body line, which I didn't think I was going to get. Door is blasted and found a few pinholes that I will weld and grind. Previous owner bondoed over them it appears. Overall a rust free solid door. Will require a bit of bondo, but nothing major.
Link Posted: 10/6/2012 8:14:20 PM EDT
Did you buy the HF stud gun?

If you don't know, they have a skim coat for finishing over bondo before you prime.
Link Posted: 10/6/2012 10:24:48 PM EDT
Quoted:
Did you buy the HF stud gun?

If you don't know, they have a skim coat for finishing over bondo before you prime.


No we actually had a slide hammer that was modified to pull bearings. It had a flat foot which we tack welded to the door about every 2 inches and pulled the dent out with a bit of heat. I do plan on using skin coat over bondo, before I block it out.
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