I bought a Storm Lake threaded barrel for my G21 Gen4 and tried it with my non-piston suppressor (Gemtech Blackside .45) but it kept stove piping.  You'd have to rack the slide after each shot to eject the stovepipe and chamber the next round.  However, every fourth or fifth shot, it would cycle completely but actually eject the brass up and over the gun to the left very weakly.  The recoil seems a bit sharper as well with the suppressor installed vs. unsuppressed.

Obviously the weight of the can is not allowing the barrel to tip up fast enough to allow the slide to cycle and a piston, LID, Nielsen device, etc. is needed to assist the Glock.  But I'd like to get this one running without a booster (saves length and weight).  My Sig P220 runs great with the can in its current form.
 
I'm thinking if I keep shooting it and allowing it to break in, maybe it will start running good.  Is this a lost cause?  Will it tear up my gun?

Any recoil operated gun you're going to need a booster. Sorry.

My P220 combat (which the can was specifically made for) runs all day long without a booster.

It's a pretty lightweight/short can.

im new to suppressors..... but if the gun is not recoiling fast enough, due to the weight of the suppressor...... would a lighter weight recoil spring help speed it up and function better with the suppressor?  

I've heard that suggestion as well (albeit you have to remember to swap back to the normal spring for unsuppressed firing or else it will beat up the gun).   Even if that works, having to swap springs when going back and forth suppressed/unsuppressed doesn't seem like fun.

Either the can has to be lightweight or the action has to be like that of a Beretta. Any JMB tilt barrel type action with any signifigant weight on the end of it (typical suppressor) will need a booster.

N/m -- I see what you're saying.

Swapping an RSA on a glock wouldn't take any longer than threading the can on.

 

screwing the can on a pistol already takes way too long