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Posted: 10/25/2013 5:49:27 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 5:55:54 PM EST by Chromekilla]
Wondering about if something is feasible.

Basically I need a 4 inch total length shaft.

One end needs to be .685 OD, on the other end I need it to have internal threads of something like 5/16. If possible I would like this to be in the middle of of a .626 ID section (od of this does not matter).

Basically I am attempting to use it as a step up to a pulley. The one end needs to thread into another shaft. But I am thinking that if I make the ID of this side the same as the od of the .626 shaft and about an inch long, the threads will not be an issue in terms of shearing.

Is something like this even possible?

If that is not possible, what about if I need one end to be .685 and then the other end needs to be female thread 5/8 with a slip fit over a 5/8 shaft?
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 5:55:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 5:58:34 PM EST by LvFreeRDie]
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Wondering about if something is feasible.

Basically I need a 4 inch total length shaft.

One end needs to be .685 OD, on the other end I need it to have internal threads of something like 5/16. If possible I would like this to be in the middle of of a .626 ID section (od of this does not matter).

Basically I am attempting to use it as a step up to a pulley. The one end needs to thread into another shaft. But I am thinking that if I make the ID of this side the same as the od of the .626 shaft and about an inch long, the threads will not be an issue in terms of shearing.

Is something like this even possible?
View Quote


Provide a drawing, even if it's MS paint. I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you want. Also, what material and tolerances?

My knee jerk reaction is you have a part that is nearly 6:1 length to diameter. That will make it a little more tricky than usual, but certainly not impossible to make. Tolerances will play an important role on how difficult it is to make.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:00:26 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:02:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:02:48 PM EST by Chromekilla]
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Originally Posted By LvFreeRDie:


Provide a drawing, even if it's MS paint. I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you want. Also, what material and tolerances?

My knee jerk reaction is you have a part that is nearly 6:1 length to diameter. That will make it a little more tricky than usual, but certainly not impossible to make. Tolerances will play an important role on how difficult it is to make.
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Originally Posted By LvFreeRDie:
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Wondering about if something is feasible.

Basically I need a 4 inch total length shaft.

One end needs to be .685 OD, on the other end I need it to have internal threads of something like 5/16. If possible I would like this to be in the middle of of a .626 ID section (od of this does not matter).

Basically I am attempting to use it as a step up to a pulley. The one end needs to thread into another shaft. But I am thinking that if I make the ID of this side the same as the od of the .626 shaft and about an inch long, the threads will not be an issue in terms of shearing.

Is something like this even possible?


Provide a drawing, even if it's MS paint. I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you want. Also, what material and tolerances?

My knee jerk reaction is you have a part that is nearly 6:1 length to diameter. That will make it a little more tricky than usual, but certainly not impossible to make. Tolerances will play an important role on how difficult it is to make.

Yeah basically what I am trying to do is figure out how to join a factory pulley (.685 bore) to a powersteering pump (.626 shaft OD) that it was never designed for. I also need the additional length on the shaft to ensure that my pulleys are inline.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:02:43 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
<a href="http://s453.photobucket.com/user/glover2010/media/shaftdrawing_zps5defd05b.png.html" target="_blank">http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq253/glover2010/shaftdrawing_zps5defd05b.png</a>
View Quote


Don't know if it's my ipad, but I can't read that. Res is too low.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:04:29 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:08:55 PM EST by Shooter62]
female 5/8 threads have a smaller hole than 5/8. It wouldn't slip over a 5/8 shaft. ETA2: NM, I misunderstood this part.

It doesn't sound like a big deal otherwise. Why not just get a couple of lovejoy (spelling?) couplings?

ETA: These couplings don't need to be exactly in line either.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:05:14 PM EST
See if this is better
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:07:16 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Shooter62:

female 5/8 threads have a smaller hole than 5/8. It wouldn't slip over a 5/8 shaft.

It doesn't sound like a big deal otherwise. Why not just get a couple of lovejoy (spelling?) couplings?
View Quote

I need the additional link as the powersteering pump will not mount in the factory cast bracket because it is bigger in terms of reservoir. It is set back approximately 1-1/8". I need the additional inches on the new shaft to mount this pump where I need it (without modifying factory bracket), and to ensure that my pulley can be mounted in line with the current other serpentine pulleys.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:07:19 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:08:00 PM EST by Gun_Crank]
Can you enlarge your drawing?
ETA: Beat me to it.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:08:45 PM EST
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.

Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:08:59 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:10:33 PM EST by Chromekilla]
You can see what I am getting at on this shaft here



This extension is .685 OD, and the pump side is .626 OD.
The pump sticks into the new shaft about 1 inch. The shaft adapter is internally threaded female 5/8, the ps pump is 5/8 threaded male.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:10:00 PM EST
How deep do you need the 5/16 threads to go?
What are the lengths of each individual diameter?

It doesn't look to hard at first sight.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:11:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:12:04 PM EST by CouncilOfDave]
NVM, saw the pump in question.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:11:27 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
How deep do you need the 5/16 threads to go?
What are the lengths of each individual diameter?

It doesn't look to hard at first sight.
View Quote

In terms of that bud I don't exactly now, just have rough guesses. I am just kicking this idea around.

Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:11:59 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:13:08 PM EST by LvFreeRDie]
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View Quote


Ok, that makes more sense.

I'm thinking you will want to make the shaft two pieces. I don't know of an easy way to put the male threaded section inside a hole on the one end. What I would do is make a shaft that has two sets of male threads on one end, then thread a "pipe" over the one end that encloses the 5/16 male threads into that end. Hope that makes sense, it's a little hard to word.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:12:43 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:

In terms of that bud I don't exactly now, just have rough guesses. I am just kicking this idea around.

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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
How deep do you need the 5/16 threads to go?
What are the lengths of each individual diameter?

It doesn't look to hard at first sight.

In terms of that bud I don't exactly now, just have rough guesses. I am just kicking this idea around.


That's OK your drawing still has me a little confused.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:13:34 PM EST
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Originally Posted By bgenlvtex:
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.

View Quote


Kind of what I was thinking...
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:14:44 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Sixpack595:


Kind of what I was thinking...
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Originally Posted By Sixpack595:
Originally Posted By bgenlvtex:
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.



Kind of what I was thinking...

That's a risk I'm willing to take.

I like the coupling idea posted earlier.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:16:43 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

That's OK your drawing still has me a little confused.
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
How deep do you need the 5/16 threads to go?
What are the lengths of each individual diameter?

It doesn't look to hard at first sight.

In terms of that bud I don't exactly now, just have rough guesses. I am just kicking this idea around.


That's OK your drawing still has me a little confused.

Ok I will revise it for my second idea.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:17:19 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Sixpack595:

Kind of what I was thinking...
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Originally Posted By Sixpack595:
Originally Posted By bgenlvtex:
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.


Kind of what I was thinking...

I was going to agree, but it looks like he's only making a replacement shaft that is a little longer.

The OD is probably specified because it goes into some sort of bearing to stabilize it.

I'm just guessing, since I don't know what pump the vehicle is going on.


Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:17:51 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:18:59 PM EST by Chromekilla]
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

That's a risk I'm willing to take.

I like the coupling idea posted earlier.
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By Sixpack595:
Originally Posted By bgenlvtex:
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.



Kind of what I was thinking...

That's a risk I'm willing to take.

I like the coupling idea posted earlier.

That would workout great, but I still need a .685 shaft to press a PS pulley on.

Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:27:24 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:

That would workout great, but I still need a .685 shaft to press a PS pulley on.

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq253/glover2010/shaftdrawing_zpsfc6d1d52.png~original
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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By Sixpack595:
Originally Posted By bgenlvtex:
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.



Kind of what I was thinking...

That's a risk I'm willing to take.

I like the coupling idea posted earlier.

That would workout great, but I still need a .685 shaft to press a PS pulley on.

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq253/glover2010/shaftdrawing_zpsfc6d1d52.png~original


Ok, I think I misunderstood earlier. A section view might be helpful just to make sure, but I don't see why that wouldn't be too hard to make. What material and tolerances are you looking for?
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:30:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 6:35:16 PM EST by Chromekilla]
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Originally Posted By LvFreeRDie:


Ok, I think I misunderstood earlier. A section view might be helpful just to make sure, but I don't see why that wouldn't be too hard to make. What material and tolerances are you looking for?
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Originally Posted By LvFreeRDie:
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By Sixpack595:
Originally Posted By bgenlvtex:
I predict it would break off pretty quick and/or eat the seal in the pump while tensioned.



Kind of what I was thinking...

That's a risk I'm willing to take.

I like the coupling idea posted earlier.

That would workout great, but I still need a .685 shaft to press a PS pulley on.

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq253/glover2010/shaftdrawing_zpsfc6d1d52.png~original


Ok, I think I misunderstood earlier. A section view might be helpful just to make sure, but I don't see why that wouldn't be too hard to make. What material and tolerances are you looking for?

Yeah I had two different ideas. I think you understood correctly. As I was explaining my first idea I thought of the second idea lol.

In terms of materials and tolerances I don't know. I'd like it to be strong and be a pretty tight fit.

On the .685 side. It would need to be good tolerance since the pulley has a .685 bore and relies on a press fit for tension.

Here is that pump with the shaft extender removed.



I believe those threads are 5/8. The shaft extender screws onto that and transitions to .685 on the other side.



ETA: These pics are not mine I am looking to do a similar thing this guy did but this pump setup off the shelf like I want is no longer made.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 6:47:34 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:

Yeah I had two different ideas. I think you understood correctly. As I was explaining my first idea I thought of the second idea lol.

In terms of materials and tolerances I don't know. I'd like it to be strong and be a pretty tight fit.

On the .685 side. It would need to be good tolerance since the pulley has a .685 bore and relies on a press fit for tension.

Here is that pump with the shaft extender removed.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q269/jeepstuff/broncobrando%20foxbravo%201994%20Ford%20Bronc­o/saginaw/DSCN3188.jpg

I believe those threads are 5/8. The shaft extender screws onto that and transitions to .685 on the other side. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q269/jeepstuff/broncobrando%20foxbravo%201994%20Ford%20Bronc­o/saginaw/DSCN3190.jpg



ETA: These pics are not mine I am looking to do a similar thing this guy did but this pump setup off the shelf like I want is no longer made.
View Quote


Is that second pic the shaft sticking out of the pulley? If so, I would try and leave that shaft in the pulley and build the extension off of that. Your biggest challenge is if you want a press fit of the pulley on the shaft you are talking very tight tolerances, maybe even ground. That means you need to be really sure of the pulley ID. If you can just use the existing shaft in the pulley ID and extend off of that to the pump then you don't need to worry about that anymore.

Hopefully that makes sense. It's still hard to be 100% sure without actually seeing it in person.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:05:37 PM EST
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Originally Posted By LvFreeRDie:


Is that second pic the shaft sticking out of the pulley? If so, I would try and leave that shaft in the pulley and build the extension off of that. Your biggest challenge is if you want a press fit of the pulley on the shaft you are talking very tight tolerances, maybe even ground. That means you need to be really sure of the pulley ID. If you can just use the existing shaft in the pulley ID and extend off of that to the pump then you don't need to worry about that anymore.

Hopefully that makes sense. It's still hard to be 100% sure without actually seeing it in person.
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Originally Posted By LvFreeRDie:
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:

Yeah I had two different ideas. I think you understood correctly. As I was explaining my first idea I thought of the second idea lol.

In terms of materials and tolerances I don't know. I'd like it to be strong and be a pretty tight fit.

On the .685 side. It would need to be good tolerance since the pulley has a .685 bore and relies on a press fit for tension.

Here is that pump with the shaft extender removed.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q269/jeepstuff/broncobrando%20foxbravo%201994%20Ford%20Bronc­o/saginaw/DSCN3188.jpg

I believe those threads are 5/8. The shaft extender screws onto that and transitions to .685 on the other side. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q269/jeepstuff/broncobrando%20foxbravo%201994%20Ford%20Bronc­o/saginaw/DSCN3190.jpg



ETA: These pics are not mine I am looking to do a similar thing this guy did but this pump setup off the shelf like I want is no longer made.


Is that second pic the shaft sticking out of the pulley? If so, I would try and leave that shaft in the pulley and build the extension off of that. Your biggest challenge is if you want a press fit of the pulley on the shaft you are talking very tight tolerances, maybe even ground. That means you need to be really sure of the pulley ID. If you can just use the existing shaft in the pulley ID and extend off of that to the pump then you don't need to worry about that anymore.

Hopefully that makes sense. It's still hard to be 100% sure without actually seeing it in person.

In the second pic all you see is the shaft sticking out of the power steering pump it self. The extension piece that screws on to the pump shaft, and bumps up the shaft to .685 is not pictures. The extension piece is what I am looking at getting made.

I
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:38:24 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 7:38:36 PM EST by OSUBeaver]
If you want something like this:



Yes it is possible..685 OD on the left diameter, whatever on the right. ID detail is .626 bore and 5/8-18 threads. The threads would need to be cut since you're not going to run a 5/8 tap through a .626 hole. So drill it, bore it, cut threads with an ID thread cutting tool. It is possible since the OD of your male 5/8 threads should only be about .615 or so.

I'm not looking at how it all fits together or assemble it, or if it will work, but the part is able to be made.

I was confused as hell there for a while 5/16 to 5/8, male.....female
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:45:26 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 7:46:17 PM EST by Gun_Crank]
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Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
If you want something like this:

Yes it is possible..685 OD on the left diameter, whatever on the right. ID detail is .626 bore and 5/8-18 threads. The threads would need to be cut since you're not going to run a 5/8 tap through a .626 hole. So drill it, bore it, cut threads with an ID thread cutting tool. It is possible since the OD of your male 5/8 threads should only be about .615 or so.

I'm not looking at how it all fits together or assemble it, or if it will work, but the part is able to be made.

I was confused as hell there for a while 5/16 to 5/8, male.....female
View Quote

Why not?

I was confused too. I think you've got it.

Easy part to make.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:46:34 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 7:46:57 PM EST by WilliamGray]
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

Why not?

I was confused too. I think you've got it. Easy part to make.
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
If you want something like this:

Yes it is possible..685 OD on the left diameter, whatever on the right. ID detail is .626 bore and 5/8-18 threads. The threads would need to be cut since you're not going to run a 5/8 tap through a .626 hole. So drill it, bore it, cut threads with an ID thread cutting tool. It is possible since the OD of your male 5/8 threads should only be about .615 or so.

I'm not looking at how it all fits together or assemble it, or if it will work, but the part is able to be made.

I was confused as hell there for a while 5/16 to 5/8, male.....female

Why not?

I was confused too. I think you've got it. Easy part to make.

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:52:33 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
If you want something like this:

Yes it is possible..685 OD on the left diameter, whatever on the right. ID detail is .626 bore and 5/8-18 threads. The threads would need to be cut since you're not going to run a 5/8 tap through a .626 hole. So drill it, bore it, cut threads with an ID thread cutting tool. It is possible since the OD of your male 5/8 threads should only be about .615 or so.

I'm not looking at how it all fits together or assemble it, or if it will work, but the part is able to be made.

Why not?

.



You're right, you can do it. But with a potential of .001 clearance total between the bore and the tap, in my opinion, cutting would be a better solution. I'm sure a tap would work, just might scratch the hole up a little. I didn't mean it can't be done. As a machinist, you know that usually the way we pick
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:55:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 7:56:22 PM EST by Gun_Crank]
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Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.
View Quote

Ha, you got me looking at my Kennemetal catalog to see if they make one that will do it.

TNMA43NV
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:56:12 PM EST
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Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:


You're right, you can do it. But with a potential of .001 clearance total between the bore and the tap, in my opinion, cutting would be a better solution. I'm sure a tap would work, just might scratch the hole up a little. I didn't mean it can't be done. As a machinist, you know that usually the way we pick
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Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
If you want something like this:

Yes it is possible..685 OD on the left diameter, whatever on the right. ID detail is .626 bore and 5/8-18 threads. The threads would need to be cut since you're not going to run a 5/8 tap through a .626 hole. So drill it, bore it, cut threads with an ID thread cutting tool. It is possible since the OD of your male 5/8 threads should only be about .615 or so.

I'm not looking at how it all fits together or assemble it, or if it will work, but the part is able to be made.

Why not?

.



You're right, you can do it. But with a potential of .001 clearance total between the bore and the tap, in my opinion, cutting would be a better solution. I'm sure a tap would work, just might scratch the hole up a little. I didn't mean it can't be done. As a machinist, you know that usually the way we pick


A blind hole that small is going to be a bitch to thread on a lathe. What size bar are you going to use? Your thread depth is ~1/32"
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:56:53 PM EST
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Originally Posted By WilliamGray:
Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.
View Quote



It's done all the time. 5/8" isn't small
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 7:59:08 PM EST
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Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:


You're right, you can do it. But with a potential of .001 clearance total between the bore and the tap, in my opinion, cutting would be a better solution. I'm sure a tap would work, just might scratch the hole up a little. I didn't mean it can't be done. As a machinist, you know that usually the way we pick
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Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By OSUBeaver:
If you want something like this:

Yes it is possible..685 OD on the left diameter, whatever on the right. ID detail is .626 bore and 5/8-18 threads. The threads would need to be cut since you're not going to run a 5/8 tap through a .626 hole. So drill it, bore it, cut threads with an ID thread cutting tool. It is possible since the OD of your male 5/8 threads should only be about .615 or so.

I'm not looking at how it all fits together or assemble it, or if it will work, but the part is able to be made.

Why not?

.



You're right, you can do it. But with a potential of .001 clearance total between the bore and the tap, in my opinion, cutting would be a better solution. I'm sure a tap would work, just might scratch the hole up a little. I didn't mean it can't be done. As a machinist, you know that usually the way we pick

We are not concerned about scratches on this project. Most likely it will get stuck on the install, and have to torqued on really hard messing up our nice bore anyway.
We better add some wrench flats.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:00:41 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

Ha, you got me looking at my Kennemetal catalog to see if they make one that will do it.

TNMA43NV
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.

Ha, you got me looking at my Kennemetal catalog to see if they make one that will do it.

TNMA43NV


Not gonna work.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:01:38 PM EST
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Originally Posted By WilliamGray:


Not gonna work.
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Originally Posted By WilliamGray:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.

Ha, you got me looking at my Kennemetal catalog to see if they make one that will do it.

TNMA43NV


Not gonna work.

You gonna make me look again?

Why not?
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:04:43 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

You gonna make me look again?

Why not?
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:
Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.

Ha, you got me looking at my Kennemetal catalog to see if they make one that will do it.

TNMA43NV


Not gonna work.

You gonna make me look again?

Why not?

The IC on that insert is 1/2" Then you have to factor in the bar........
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:07:18 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
We are not concerned about scratches on this project. Most likely it will get stuck on the install, and have to torqued on really hard messing up our nice bore anyway.
We better add some wrench flats.
View Quote



Good point! Maybe just send him to a welder.....they can fix anything
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:20:27 PM EST
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Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

The IC on that insert is 1/2" Then you have to factor in the bar........
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boring bar. Insert. Dammit you make the part. I prefer the mill anyway.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:25:39 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:

boring bar. Insert. Dammit you make the part. I prefer the mill anyway.
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Originally Posted By Gun_Crank:
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

The IC on that insert is 1/2" Then you have to factor in the bar........

boring bar. Insert. Dammit you make the part. I prefer the mill anyway.


LOL.

We just ground a small cemented carbide bar. It always sucked with blind holes. especially at a surface speed fast enough for a nice, non torn, finish. I always dealt with cast iron and 4140. Milder steel may not be an issue. I would charge out the ass for it though.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:50:47 PM EST
Thanks for the information guys!
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:54:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 8:56:11 PM EST by OSUBeaver]
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:
I would charge out the ass for it though.
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Oh the can you make it question Time and money you can make anything right?

And FWIW, the front mount inserts from Sandvik are pretty cool. I bet others make them too http://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/products/pages/productdetails.aspx?c=MB-E0500-19-07R (picture on the bottom rightish)

I think that link says grooving, but you can put a threading insert on there too.

PS: Sorry OP

Link Posted: 10/26/2013 7:11:34 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Thanks for the information guys!
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Why not put the missing dimensions on OSUBeaver's drawing?
Or did you already make one?
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 7:33:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 7:37:02 PM EST by Thumbnuts]
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Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.
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I do it all the time, do you think flash hiders and muzzle brakes come from the steel mill with theads in them? Carmex makes small id bars with full and partial prof inserts, Could make that shaft in under 1/2 hour start to finish, including a least one piss break.

But then again i guess id jus run a frikin 5/8 tap into the hole myself....
Link Posted: 10/27/2013 3:41:48 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Thumbnuts:


I do it all the time, do you think flash hiders and muzzle brakes come from the steel mill with theads in them? Carmex makes small id bars with full and partial prof inserts, Could make that shaft in under 1/2 hour start to finish, including a least one piss break.

But then again i guess id jus run a frikin 5/8 tap into the hole myself....
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Originally Posted By Thumbnuts:
Originally Posted By WilliamGray:

Internally threading that small on a lathe? Good luck.


I do it all the time, do you think flash hiders and muzzle brakes come from the steel mill with theads in them? Carmex makes small id bars with full and partial prof inserts, Could make that shaft in under 1/2 hour start to finish, including a least one piss break.

But then again i guess id jus run a frikin 5/8 tap into the hole myself....


Flash hiders are not a blind hole. It is possible to do it,I just would not want o do it.
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