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Posted: 8/1/2014 6:49:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/5/2014 8:20:05 PM EST by chadjetlag]
Have a couple of no start questions
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 6:53:28 PM EST
Year, prior repair history, explain no start
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 6:53:56 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/1/2014 6:56:20 PM EST by CROWDLG]
Yes, ask away or You can IM Me.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 6:55:12 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/1/2014 7:00:38 PM EST by CROWDLG]
You need 500 psi ICP to start. If You don't have that it is probably an STC bracket, D rings, or other HP oil leak or possible low pressure oil pump / base engine issue.

You need sync and ficm sync to start. If You dont have that it could be a crank or cam sensor issue.

You need ficm voltage of @ 48vts at cranking. If it starts @ high 40's at first crank and voltage crashes to 30's while crankin the ficm is bad.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 6:57:39 PM EST
The Six-Oh No?

Cut your loses and sell it.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:02:41 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SwedeJesus:
Year, prior repair history, explain no start
View Quote
This will be helpful. Starer spinning but motor not catching? Nothing at all? Clicking?
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:02:48 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:
You need 500 psi ICP to start. If You don't have that it is probably an STC bracket, D rings, or other HP oil leak or possible low pressure oil pump / base engine issue.

You need sync and ficm sync to start. If You dont have that it could be a crank or cam sensor issue.

You need ficm voltage of @ 48vts at cranking. If it starts @ high 40's at first crank and voltage crashes to 30's while crankin the ficm is bad.
View Quote




This.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:04:05 PM EST
Late 04, intermittent no start. Icp- well over 500, ipr-good, new batteries (less than 1 yr old) ficm-48.0v. New fuel filters (racor) new upper filter cap (ford) new blue spring regulator mod. It wouldn't start the other day, i loosened the upper cap to check for fuel and it made a hissing sound i tightened it back and truck started.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:07:16 PM EST
Truck will turn over but will not fire. While trouble shooting i put a fuel pressure gauge and had around 55 psi. When the fuel pump runs before start I hear a fluid noise at the upper filter. I have remove all injectors to clean shuttle valves and reinstalled with new ford o rings and copper gaskets
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:08:49 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Truck will turn over but will not fire. While trouble shooting i put a fuel pressure gauge and had around 55 psi. When the fuel pump runs before start I hear a fluid noise at the upper filter. I have remove all injectors to clean shuttle valves and reinstalled with new ford o rings and copper gaskets
View Quote
I have a scangauge to get all my parameters. As far as I can tell I have everything it needs, just wont run. I do not have the codes to program x gauge for cam sensor
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:08:49 PM EST
The one truck that most car lots will not even take on trade in.....


Research before you buy.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:09:19 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/1/2014 7:10:38 PM EST by CROWDLG]
Check You lower fuel filter for grey paint.
The tank maybe coming apart.

Or You have an injector sticking and it's getting compression in the fuel system displacing the fuel
when You took the cap loose You bleed out that air and thats why it started after doing that.

quote...."When the fuel pump runs before start I hear a fluid noise at the upper filter"....quote
this is normal.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:09:46 PM EST
Was this right after the filter change? Another possibility is the rail pump is cavitating or it's sucking air any where from the tank pickup to the pump..doesn't sound like combustion gas as they usually turn into a runs rough / stalls...and with a 6.0 it could have been a coincidence that it started after cracking the cap..do you know if it was synced during cranking?
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:10:30 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By joker2041:
The one truck that most car lots will not even take on trade in.....


Research before you buy.
View Quote
Actually this is my second one and I will probably get another, I have gotten quite good at troubleshooting and repairing them. This one has me stumped
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:11:48 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SwedeJesus:
Was this right after the filter change? Another possibility is the rail pump is cavitating or it's sucking air any where from the tank pickup to the pump..doesn't sound like combustion gas as they usually turn into a runs rough / stalls...and with a 6.0 it could have been a coincidence that it started after cracking the cap..do you know if it was synced during cranking?
View Quote

I have seen lower fuel filters changed and not tightened up far enough or the o-ring pinched causing this as well.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:12:11 PM EST
The only sync code for the scangauge I can find is ficm sync, it does not sync until after the engine starts.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:15:36 PM EST
I changed the filters after the intermittent no start began. The upper filter had been replace by previous owner and was aftermarket brand, it was crushed in the housing.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:15:58 PM EST
ECU
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:17:03 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
The only sync code for the scangauge I can find is ficm sync, it does not sync until after the engine starts.
View Quote

For Me on Ford IDS it syncs after about 2-3 sec of cranking.
Not sure on aftermarket scanners...but if You don't have sync it wont start and if it gets it when it runs it maybe the issue.
Maybe try a new cam sensor, what is the mileage?
I have only seen them go bad on high mileage trucks or I have seen rust on the block push the sensor away a few thousands and have a larger gap.
Cleaning the rust between the sensor an the block fixed that one.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:17:29 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:
You need 500 psi ICP to start. If You don't have that it is probably an STC bracket, D rings, or other HP oil leak or possible low pressure oil pump / base engine issue.

You need sync and ficm sync to start. If You dont have that it could be a crank or cam sensor issue.

You need ficm voltage of @ 48vts at cranking. If it starts @ high 40's at first crank and voltage crashes to 30's while crankin the ficm is bad.
View Quote

^^^
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:17:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/1/2014 7:19:19 PM EST by SwedeJesus]
There's also a camshaft/ crankshaft sync...I have seen rust build up under the head of the camshaft sensor raise it off the block enough to cause intermittent no starts/ low speed maneuver stalls..


Edit..got beat on the cmp/ rust!
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:17:55 PM EST
When I changed the lower filter I used grease on the o ring and am fairly confident it is not pinched, I also used the correct socket....not chamnel locks like I have seen on other trucks
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:18:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/1/2014 7:20:11 PM EST by CROWDLG]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
I changed the filters after the intermittent no start began. The upper filter had been replace by previous owner and was aftermarket brand, it was crushed in the housing.
View Quote

Check the little black thing in the upper bowl.
It opens when the filter is installed and allows fuel past the filter into the lines to the heads.
They do break or stay shut sometimes and will starve the heads for fuel.

Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:20:12 PM EST
Ficm holds steady 48.0 even during cranking. How hard is the cam sensor to get to? I think its under he ac compressor
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:21:19 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:

Check the little black thing in the upper bowl.
It opens when the filter is installed and allows fuel past the filter into the lines to the heads.
They do break or stay shut sometimes and will starve the heads for fuel.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2289/imag0324xb.jpg
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
I changed the filters after the intermittent no start began. The upper filter had been replace by previous owner and was aftermarket brand, it was crushed in the housing.

Check the little black thing in the upper bowl.
It opens when the filter is installed and allows fuel past the filter into the lines to the heads.
They do break or stay shut sometimes and will starve the heads for fuel.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2289/imag0324xb.jpg
Is it supposed to look like the one in the right?
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:22:15 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Ficm holds steady 48.0 even during cranking. How hard is the cam sensor to get to? I think its under he ac compressor
View Quote

Crank is under the A/C pn pass side
Cam is on the drivers side behind the PS pump and much easier to get to.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:22:20 PM EST
But now that you removed the injectors you're gonna have a hard time even with it running to purge the air out Of the system.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:22:54 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Is it supposed to look like the one in the right?
View Quote

Yes the right is fine.
The left one in the pic is broken.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:23:55 PM EST
The injectors were done a couple of weeks ago all air is purged from hpo system. It will run...sometimes.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:25:21 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:

Yes the right is fine.
The left one in the pic is broken.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Is it supposed to look like the one in the right?

Yes the right is fine.
The left one in the pic is broken.
The black plastic fuel valve on mine is apparently broken, it looks like the one on the left.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:28:11 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
The black plastic fuel valve on mine is apparently broken, it looks like the one on the left.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Is it supposed to look like the one in the right?

Yes the right is fine.
The left one in the pic is broken.
The black plastic fuel valve on mine is apparently broken, it looks like the one on the left.

Well I would start there.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:32:01 PM EST
I off to the ford dealer in the AM. I always had a feeling the problem involved the upper filter, which is why I replaced the cap etc. never knew the other part was broken. Thank you very much for your help. Will post AAR tomorrow.

How many 6.0's you guys got there in Somalia?
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:43:22 PM EST
Take it to a Ford dealer, OP....they will fix it for you.
























I kid, I kid, this is only a tag...
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 7:47:55 PM EST
I had one and just got rid of it. Dealer took it back on a trade. Loved the truck but the "limp home mode" light started coming on everytime I pulled anything heavier than my back pack. No more diesel for me.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 8:20:22 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/1/2014 8:21:54 PM EST by evansvillexbj]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By seag:
When I changed the lower filter I used grease on the o ring and am fairly confident it is not pinched, I also used the correct socket....not chamnel locks like I have seen on other trucks
View Quote

Wow
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 8:25:21 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By evansvillexbj:

Wow
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Originally Posted By evansvillexbj:
Originally Posted By seag:
When I changed the lower filter I used grease on the o ring and am fairly confident it is not pinched, I also used the correct socket....not chamnel locks like I have seen on other truckshttp://goo.gl/K8IsGh

Wow
Yes, someone had done that on the first 6.0 I had....i wanted to kick them in the nuts when I had to remove it.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 8:27:22 PM EST
I had all the bugs worked out if the first one, it was quite reliable.....then this happened
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 1:47:59 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/2/2014 1:50:18 PM EST by chadjetlag]
Fuel filter check valve from problem truck....fired right up after replacement. Since no start is intermittent only time will tell but the squirting noise I was hearing at the filter is gone.
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 2:13:31 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 3:50:36 PM EST
Thanks again Crowdlg
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 1:23:21 PM EST
Dammit Ford!!!! Why couldn't you get a cummins deal? 3 days of no issues the Bam...no start.
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 7:24:13 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/5/2014 7:27:33 PM EST by CROWDLG]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Dammit Ford!!!! Why couldn't you get a cummins deal? 3 days of no issues the Bam...no start.
View Quote

Still cranking ok?
If You can have it where it wont start and stays that way start at the top again.
ICP pressure?
Sync?
FICM voltage?
Fuel?

Does the check engine light come on when the key is in run?
Maybe a EBP or other sensor is grounding and killing the 5vt V-ref.
Or could be a power to the PCM issue like a PCM power relay or fuse box.

When it wont start, if You can communicate with the PCM via scan tool it is not totally dead.
I would unplug the EBP when it does not start. I have had a lot of issue with Them grounding internally intermittently.
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 7:27:54 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By joker2041:
The one truck that most car lots will not even take on trade in.....


Research before you buy.
View Quote
You fix the headstuds, EGR, and Oil cooler and they are a damn fine motor. IMO
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:02:19 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:

Still cranking ok?cranks fine just no run
If You can have it where it wont start and stays that way start at the top again.
ICP pressure? Greater than 600psi
Sync?ficm does not sync until start, I just located scangauge code for cam/crank sync will try tomorrow
FICM voltage?48.0 steady
Fuel? Good fresh fuel from different stations with new Racor filters

Does the check engine light come on when the key is in run? I have never seen a check engine light illuminate with a 6.0...ever
Maybe a EBP or other sensor is grounding and killing the 5vt V-ref.
Or could be a power to the PCM issue like a PCM power relay or fuse box.

When it wont start, if You can communicate with the PCM via scan tool it is not totally dead.
I would unplug the EBP when it does not start. I have had a lot of issue with Them grounding internally intermittently.[/quote] I cleaned the EBP tube as part of troubleshooting, I will unplug next
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CROWDLG:
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Dammit Ford!!!! Why couldn't you get a cummins deal? 3 days of no issues the Bam...no start.

Still cranking ok?cranks fine just no run
If You can have it where it wont start and stays that way start at the top again.
ICP pressure? Greater than 600psi
Sync?ficm does not sync until start, I just located scangauge code for cam/crank sync will try tomorrow
FICM voltage?48.0 steady
Fuel? Good fresh fuel from different stations with new Racor filters

Does the check engine light come on when the key is in run? I have never seen a check engine light illuminate with a 6.0...ever
Maybe a EBP or other sensor is grounding and killing the 5vt V-ref.
Or could be a power to the PCM issue like a PCM power relay or fuse box.

When it wont start, if You can communicate with the PCM via scan tool it is not totally dead.
I would unplug the EBP when it does not start. I have had a lot of issue with Them grounding internally intermittently.[/quote] I cleaned the EBP tube as part of troubleshooting, I will unplug next
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:09:58 PM EST
The worst part of a 6.0l is the guy working on it. I love mine



Still likes to go as well :D

Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:23:36 PM EST
This is the first time I've been really stumped and I have fixed a bunch of crap on them.
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:24:46 PM EST
ICP, FICM, HPOP. One or all.
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:41:17 PM EST
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Originally Posted By JAMES77257:
ICP, FICM, HPOP. One or all.
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All and then some
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:45:25 PM EST
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Originally Posted By chadjetlag:

All and then some
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Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
Originally Posted By JAMES77257:
ICP, FICM, HPOP. One or all.

All and then some


ICP pigtail?
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 9:54:00 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/5/2014 9:55:11 PM EST by CROWDLG]
When it wont start unplug the EBP, it could be shorted
Still no start, unplug the ICP, it could be biased.

Will Your scanner show voltages for the sensors?
The ICP with the key on engine not running should be @ .3-.4 vt or @ 15-30psi,

Still thinking it could be cam or crank sensors.
No real diag for those other than Ohm check when it wont run and just trying a new one.

If You give it a shot of starting fluid enough to get it to run, will it continue run then or only for a few seconds until the added fuel is depleted?

The engine light (picture) should illuminate when the key is turned on / not running.
This verifies the PCM is not brain dead.
If You do not have it when it wont run and do when it does run, it is electrical in nature.
Link Posted: 8/5/2014 10:06:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/5/2014 10:09:38 PM EST by Rickesis]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chadjetlag:
The only sync code for the scangauge I can find is ficm sync, it does not sync until after the engine starts.
View Quote

The FICM should sync when cranking. What's your FICM main power answered?
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