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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 10/25/2001 7:22:50 AM EST
As I stated in a recent post, I got laid off recently and now I'm trying to start/finish projects around the house that have been put off, forgotten, or totally ignored. I have better than average mechanical aptitude and probably all the tools required to do the projects I've got lined up: Replace door jamb/door in garage. Install whole house fan upstairs. Replace section of drywall ceiling in garage. Pull lino/replace with tile in gst/bath. My last day was Friday, and since then I've already rebuilt three sections of fence in the backyard, r&r'd the garbage disposal, and I'm going to r&r a water heater for the neighbor today. My question is, when I do the t&t in my garage, since it is in the ceiling,will nailing the drywall sheet to the exposed rafters/floorjoists (2 story home) be enough to support the sheet without cracking it while the mud dries? When I tape and mud the seam, should I overlap by several inches then sand to blend or should should I expect to float the seams right off the bat? I've never done drywall before, but what the hell, I got nothin' but time right now. Like I said before, not workin' SUCKS!
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 7:36:55 AM EST
You are getting ready to develop a lot of respect for drywallers. If you've never hung sheet rock before, expect to do some sanding. Mudding is more a art form than a science. You should be able to nail the sheets directly to the joists and hold just fine. If you are still worried try adding blocking in the corners and between rafters so there are no unsupported seams.
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 10:00:50 AM EST
Nailing is OK, but you can't beat screwing.[:D] As far as the joint compound goes, the wider the taping knife you use, the better. My brother, the contractor uses, like a 12" knife. If you do it in thin coats, it really goes much faster than trying to do it in one shot, then sand it back. When you feather out the final coat, you can "polish" it, after it sets up, with a wet sponge. My brother hasn't sanded a drywall joint in years. I agree with GWIGG, you're gonna have a new appreciation for drywallers by the time you get done. Oh mah aiken bak!!![BD]
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 11:07:34 AM EST
John, where in Cali are you located? dry wall work is not hard. It's like most things formidable until you try it. Definately screw the boards on. YOu can buy an adapter for your drill for about $20 that will set it at the perfect depth. Just like the dedicated drill guns but not as hardy. I've used on for years. Secondly, use the mesh tape that has the self adhesive on it. It makes it a lot easier especially if you haven't done it before. I still use the standard 6 inch knife for doing my first coats of mud. If I need to float it out I'll use a larger knife later. The key to applying the mud is a clean knife! You knife and the tray needs to be cleaned very well when do so NO old mud gets mixed with the new stuff. That leaves streaks and just not worth the headache. The sponge is a good idea, I've tried it but still use the pole sander. Also the best sand paper is the sanding mesh and not the sand paper, As you might of guessed, I've done a little of this type of work. LEt me know if you need more help. Scratch
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 11:35:41 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 12:02:14 PM EST
DVD tracker, You are lucky, interior doors and casing is a piece of cake. If you are around bakersfield, I may be able to help you out. Scratch
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 12:20:16 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 2:37:07 PM EST
I hang drywall for a living, but have done a small amount of finishing so I know how most of the guys around here do it. As far as hanging, if you want to tack it up there with nails around the perimiter, no big deal. That's how 98% of the hangers do it. Not that screwing is a bad idea, just that nailing it while holding it above your head is easier. In the field though, it's best (but not absolutely necessary) to screw it. Whether nailing or screwing, put three fastners in the field. Now to the finishing. First start out with a mudded tape coat covering the seam. Flatten out with a knife. While doing that, spot your screw or nail holes in the field. If screws, you can usually spot them once. If nails, three times. Then go with a fill coat using a eight inch knife, floating the mud out a bit more. After that, put on the third and final coat, the finish coat, floating it out with a 12 inch knife. Of course, make sure to let dry between coats. If butting the drywall up to existing drywall, float out the mud with 12 inch knife till it is somewhat uniform to the eye. Finally, sand with a drywall screen, and a sanding sponge to smooth it out. But make sure not to scuff the paper. Of course, if there's texture on the rest of the ceiling, try and match it up. Hope this was some help. If you have any questions, email me.
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 2:53:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2001 2:58:32 PM EST by DesertRider]
Thanks for the tips, guys. Since I haven't pulled the drywall down yet, I'm not sure if I'll have to put extra support where the seams will be or not. I'll make sure to use drywall screws and get myself some adhesive mesh tape for the seams as well as a couple of sturdy putty knives (and keep 'em clean while I'm doing it) for the mud. Is all mud the same, or is some easier to work with than others (spreadability)? I've never worked with this before, so I don't know what you mean by "polishing" it with a sponge. I expect to spend some time on this project as it's all new to me. I'm sure I'll spend alot of time on the floor when I pull the lino' and lay the tile. That'll be a first for me too. I r&r'd my neighbors water heater today and didn't expect anything in return, but she slipped me fifty bucks and wouldn't take no for an answer. Since it took me about five hours to do the whole job (yeah, I know that's slow)it amounted to ten bucks an hour. If I could cut my time in half (possible with repetition) I might consider becoming an apprentice. Is there such a thing as a flat rate book for home repair projects? Scratch, I live in Moreno Valley, which is just east of Riverside. DVDTracker, if you lived closer, I'd be willing to give you a hand, but I'd be afraid that your beast would bite my leg off.[:D] Seamusmcoi, I'll take your finishing tips but my first concern is getting the sheet in with a clean seam. Since it's in the garage, texture and paint is less of a concern until I'm satisfied with it's appearance.
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 3:20:07 PM EST
The first thing to do when you get the old drywall down is to notice which way the joist are running. More than likely the sheets already there are running against the joist instead of with them. You'll probably notice which way the sheets run when you pull the old sheets down. When rehanging it if you run it against the joists you wont need to put anymore bracing. Just make sure to cut the sheet so it breaks on a joist so you have something to nail to on the ends of the sheet. Hopefully your joist are on center, either two foot or sixteen inches. If on sixteen inches, an 8 foot sheet and a 12 foot sheet SHOULD break if framed right. If not, cut it back one. Any sheets besides a nine foot sheet obviously, will break if on two foot centers. As far as the polishing with the sponge, I think he just meant smoothing out the mud with a sanding sponge, which you should be able to get wherever you get your drywall supplies.
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 5:48:29 PM EST
I would make sure that the ceiling rafters or floor joists are close enough together that the dry wall will not sag after hanging a time. At my old house, I had a unheated garage and because of the damp winter climate it sagged bad. So when I replaced the cieling I instead used roofing strand board, the type with dimples in it. I kept the edges tight and painted it white and it looked great, the dimples added to the look. Another plus using strand board is you can hang things from it, lights, bicycles or whatever. I didn't even have to lath the joints. Good luck and I hope you find work soon. AmOTramp
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 5:54:08 PM EST
Dude, do you have my number? I`ll help next week.
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 11:48:59 PM EST
Thanks for the offer, Rick. Check your email.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 2:40:06 PM EST
Use beadex lite line taping mud if you can get it in your area check drywall suppliers not the lumber yard. Use taping compound to bed the tape (only if you use paper tape). Use all purpose for doubling and touch up, dont use lite topping it scratches if you look at it. the beadex lite is the easiest product out there to work with. There are a few other pointers I could give you but it would have to be via phone. email if you would like more help.
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