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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/18/2005 9:14:22 AM EDT
Guys. I have this three cylinder Case diesel tractor that ate its thrust washers and made a mess in the engine. My block and mains are okay but the crank is trash (well the center journal is). The previous owner ran it out of oil.

I split the tractor and pulled the engine, took the block to the local NAPA machine shop for cleaning and general inspection. I was told it was best to resleeve the cylinders, do rings, bearings while I had it apart and I agreed. I want, essentially, a new engine rebuilt and installed so I don't have to fool with it in the future. The problem is no one at NAPA can remove the current sleeves. They appear to be frozen in place. I thought you heated the block and pounded the sleeves out but that may not be the case.

Does anyone know of a trick to remove the sleeves from the block? I'm no diesel mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inss Express one time.

I may have to bump this to the top a few times since it will quickly sink to page 100 in less than a hour.
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 9:16:25 AM EDT
Sorry, as much as I like diesels, I'm not much of a diesel mechanic.

In before the move.
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 9:20:24 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Wobblin-Goblin:
Sorry, as much as I like diesels, I'm not much of a diesel mechanic.

In before the move.



We have a Diesel fourm?
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 9:24:10 AM EDT
Your thought of heating the block is inline with what I know.

I've never had to remove sleeves, but I know that most guys put their new sleeves in the freezer for a few hours to make them draw up a little bit. They drop in better that way.
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 9:26:06 AM EDT
Depends on the block/sleeve. Some require a special tool. Some engines (mostly, gas, I believe) aren't removal in the field. Find a Case dealer and give 'em a call. Some techs will help you out, some won't.

Good luck,

Eddie
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 10:32:32 AM EDT
A big no to heating the block. Some of the diesel engines have "wet" sleeves as opposed To "Dry" sleeves, meaning that the replacable sleeves in the wet engine contact the engine coolant, where the dry sleeves fit into a metal bore. The wet sleeves have rubber o-rings in the bottom of the block to seal the coolant.

Any reputable engine builder should have a sleeve puller that will work. Basically a threaded rod to go thru the sleeve bore with a plate on the bottom slightly under the outside diameter of the sleeve. Some pullers depend on a hoist to pull up on the sleeve while some have a larger cup to go over the sleeve and tighten a nut to pull with.

Or as LS1Eddie says, contact a tractor shop. Most will be glad to help... fullclip
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 10:35:32 AM EDT
I don't own a Case, but I do own a Massey. When I had my engine done (4cyl.), they had a tool that pushed the old sleeves out. My experience in these tractors, is take the engine to the dealer and have them do it. Their expertise will pay off in the end.
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 10:39:53 AM EDT

Originally Posted By fullclip:
A big no to heating the block. Some of the diesel engines have "wet" sleeves as opposed To "Dry" sleeves, meaning that the replacable sleeves in the wet engine contact the engine coolant, where the dry sleeves fit into a metal bore. The wet sleeves have rubber o-rings in the bottom of the block to seal the coolant.

Any reputable engine builder should have a sleeve puller that will work. Basically a threaded rod to go thru the sleeve bore with a plate on the bottom slightly under the outside diameter of the sleeve. Some pullers depend on a hoist to pull up on the sleeve while some have a larger cup to go over the sleeve and tighten a nut to pull with.

Or as LS1Eddie says, contact a tractor shop. Most will be glad to help... fullclip



most diesel shops have them and most are glad to help
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 11:56:46 AM EDT
What model engine/tractor is it? Most of the Case engines I've seen had wet sleeves, which are sealed in place with o-rings. These normally come out with little fuss, because the o-rings self-destruct when the liners are pulled. If you have a dry liner engine, often you can run a few beads inside the liner lengthwise, and this shrinks the liner, freeing it. A good machine shop would know all this, plus more.

Bob
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 12:15:38 PM EDT
I think the wisest course of action is to take it to the local Case dealer. This tractor was built in 1980. I know the parts and repair at the Case dealership will cost me a fortune since the dealer is one of the richest guys in the county. No bargain there.

I can order many parts via the net at a better discount, it's the re-assembly that's got me stumped.

I've got the original shop manuals and correct tools (bore gauge, mics, spring compressors, etc.) for this job to put it back together. I don't have the big stuff to make sure it's correct.

I've done antique car engines, V8's and stuff but this diesel has got me by the short hairs....
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 12:18:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By anachronism:
What model engine/tractor is it? Most of the Case engines I've seen had wet sleeves, which are sealed in place with o-rings. These normally come out with little fuss, because the o-rings self-destruct when the liners are pulled. If you have a dry liner engine, often you can run a few beads inside the liner lengthwise, and this shrinks the liner, freeing it. A good machine shop would know all this, plus more.

Bob



Bob, it's a Case 380 Construction King. Nice tractor. Also goes by the brand David Brown 885. Case imported them to the U.S. in the 70's. Three cylinders, 164 cdi I think.

I think a Ford would have been a smater move....
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 2:55:01 PM EDT
Are you 100% sure it is a sleeved engine? Many small diesels are not.
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 5:57:13 PM EDT
If it is a dry sleeve block you can run some beads of weld up the length of the liner. Then use a puller to pull them out.

Old trick we used at the Mack dealership.

Bobwrench
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 6:14:39 PM EDT
go to ytmag.com, and ask in the Case forum
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