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Posted: 10/29/2006 9:36:10 AM EST
Now I don't know much about AR's so don't flame me too badly...

Does dry lube work ok on an AR? Could you send important parts to Robar or someone to get coated with something that's supposed to reduce friction?
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:34:12 AM EST
Bump cause I'm still bored at work.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:38:46 AM EST
send your gun to a pots and pans factory to get the internal surfaces teflon-coated!
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:39:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/29/2006 11:41:01 AM EST by Taipan01]
Sure, on the moving parts if you want. Most people use a light coating of CLP inside and out, then wipe dry before going to the range. Remi dri lube/teflon spray is great on 22's.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:49:22 AM EST
Go to the AR General Discussion board and search. You should find quite a bit to read. Or ask there.

Dry graphite is bad. Other than that, you need to read about new stuff over the last year or so.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:50:16 AM EST
I was thinking more along the lines of something more permanent. Robar claims that their NP3 coating requires no lube on oppsoing surfaces, for example.

It's probably not worth the cost, I'll probably end up doing the Rem oil with teflon thing...
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:53:17 AM EST
For a good read on the M16, get a copy of TM 05538C-23&P2, the U.S. Marine Corps Technical Manual. It will answer most of your questions. You can probably find it on the internet.

It specifies CLP, and shows you where to use it. There are other good lubes out there, and maybe some better than CLP (my copy of the manual was written in '84). But apparently CLP works. So if there's a product that is "better" than something that works, so what? This rationale has saved me money and simplified a subject that can be endlessly debated with no clear cut ending.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 11:58:28 AM EST
I like to run my guns pretty wet. Not dripping but a nice coat so they are "well oiled machines", so to speak.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 12:00:49 PM EST
First M16's had chrome bolts.

At the very least it makes them easier to clean
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 12:00:58 PM EST
All I need is Militec-1.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 12:06:12 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/29/2006 12:09:39 PM EST by Nlinc]
I guess I should clarify why I asked. I'm not a fan of wet lubes, mostly cause they tend to wander and seep out of stuff, even when applied sparingly. That and they seem to attract dust at the range. I have been using a dry Moly disulfide lube on my pistols, but felt it would be cool to have a similer, yet more permanent, coating applied to the AR stuff before I even fire it, hence me referencing Robar, since they have 2 coatings that they claim need no lube.
Edited for spelling.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 12:07:36 PM EST
In accordance with the prophecy...


.....let it be done........AMEN.

Link Posted: 10/29/2006 1:55:37 PM EST
So I guess its possible as Robar specifically prices the AR15 Bolt/ bolt carrier /bolt internals for an NP3 or Roguard finish.
Anyone ever had this done, if so, how do you like it?
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 2:13:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/29/2006 2:16:30 PM EST by AR-10]
You are asking in the wrong forum.

We are all trolls, alcoholics, Du plants, and teenagers.
Gun dealers, JBThugs, and paranoid anti-government types.
And paintball geeks. (Almost forgot them.)

Any gun information we may remember will be wrong, anyway.

Go to the tech forums and ask away.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 2:19:59 PM EST
Dry lubes work OK but don't last long. They get displaced and unlike fluid lubricants, can't make their way back to the wear surfaces through capillary action. OK for mags, but I wouldn't use it on rails or any high wear surfaces.
Link Posted: 10/29/2006 2:20:24 PM EST
Is it tuesday yet?

If you want your firearm to work correctly and have the ability to function reliably through many rounds of ammo you need wet lubrication. If you dont like the movement of lube, any chance of drips/runs etc, then use TW25 or other good lightweight grease in the moving parts of the action.
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