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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 8/28/2001 6:12:32 PM EST
Anyone know of any way to lighten the pull of a stock BM trigger group without, at the same time, turning the rifle into a "danger" or hazard? Only interested in tuning the 9 lb. monster pull down to something like 6 or 5 1/2 lbs. Not interested in a Jewell or other match trigger group. Want to retain the ruggedness of the stock trigger but just make it a little friendlier to use.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 6:29:15 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/28/2001 6:38:51 PM EST by MelonPopper-M1A]
It'll cost, but what I did was buy the BM match trigger, and just swapped in the match trigger, and kept the original other stuff. The sear engagement area of the match trigger is ground to a slightly different angle, and while it was just as rugged, it gave me a really, REALLY light trigger pull, without being unsafe (the stock trigger actually "pushes" against the hammer as it pivots downward; this is what gives it a heavy pull. The match trigger doesn't "push" near as much. You may also want to bend the legs of the trigger spring to make it a little stiffer, as this will help the trigger to return fully back if you pull it half-way, and then release it.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 6:56:04 PM EST
Brownell's sells a trigger adj screw which replaces the pistol grip screw. It then has a concentric screw which lines up and adjusts the amount of take up travel before the sear drops.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 7:04:09 PM EST
Don't know if this will get you down to 5.5-6 lbs, but this will make your trigger feel a helluva lot better. *Remember that the fire control parts are only surface hardened.* The following is done with a Dremel or like tool using only the felt wheels and polishing compound - I used the white brick of compound from Sears - forget whate grade it is. Polish the sear surfaces of the trigger and hammer to a mirror finish - a few visible indentions is ok, but otherwise, a mirror. When you start polishing, you'll see just how rough these bastards are. Only the "top edge" (about 3mm)of the trigger sear surface needs to be done - you'll be able to see where the hammer was rubbing against it. These are the two most important surfaces. If your hammer has really deep grooves in the sear surface (they run against direction of travel), you can CAREFULLY and LIGHTLY sand with the direction of travel using VERY fine sandpaper that has been folded to be stiff - 800 grit or up. Big hint - only sand the center of the surface - if you get sloppy and start hitting the edges, you will round them off more than is necessary, thereby making your sear surface smaller, thereby increasing the force to area ratio - you want as much sear area contact as possible. Polish the inside portion of the hammer and trigger pins - don't polish the ends of the pins where they rest in the receiver. To make it even smoother, polish the "arms" on the hammer and trigger that the spring coils go around - there's friction there. You can polish the aft end of the trigger where it contacts the selector if you'd like smoother selector movement. Clean the parts with brake cleaner or similar and make sure to wipe the gunk off manually too - especially out of the hammer sear groove - the buffing compound likes to stay there. Lube liberally and reassemble. Take your time and enjoy yourself. You WILL feel a difference. Hope this helps. Tate
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 11:37:10 PM EST
For a cheap and sleezy time call---uuuhhh. sorry, got carried away. for a cheap trigger job try this. [img]wsphotofews.excite.com/037/oJ/GT/IE/8X89267.jpg[/img] I did this about 12 yrs ago, and it worked well. It's just solidered with regular stuff with an 1000 watt iron, just remember to remove the bluing so it will take. one thing about it is that you haven't modifyed the trigger to the point it won't go back to orginal specs. I didn't touch the contact points except to use a felt bob and polishing compound. Pull was about 3 lbs IIRC, any thing lighter hada tendancy to double. Have about 20000 rds over it and the solider held up. HTH KenS
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 11:50:16 PM EST
Just have a competent smith do a "trigger job" for ya. I had one done for $45. He dug out a couple of polishing stones, a jig, and 15 to 20 minutes later I had a beautiful 3.5 lb trigger. Perfect for my CAR-15 (my opinion). Will not slam fire. Will not fire while on safe. Crisp. You can help it out a little bit using some "trigger slick". Look for it at Brownells. It's a moly lube you apply to the faces of the trigger. I've also heard (but never done) that you can lighten the pull weight some by moving one foot of the trigger spring under the pin it's resting on. Sounds reasonable, just never had the need. First choice though would be to have someone who knows what they're doing do a trigger job and polish it up.
Link Posted: 8/30/2001 6:50:02 AM EST
Tetra-Gun teflon grease will do wonders to clean up a trigger pull. Polishing the trigger and hammer pins with a non-abrasive polish(Flitz) will take out some creep as well. Good luck! Steve
Link Posted: 8/30/2001 6:50:19 AM EST
Tetra-Gun teflon grease will do wonders to clean up a trigger pull. Polishing the trigger and hammer pins with a non-abrasive polish(Flitz) will take out some creep as well. Good luck! -Steve
Link Posted: 8/30/2001 7:04:40 AM EST
you can say that again CATM
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