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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/17/2002 8:29:05 PM EST
I have a 2.5 ton Bryant AC. We recently had a brown out and ever since then the AC will not work. All the breakers seem ok. There is no fuse. Just a plastic thingy with two copper plates. No burned wires. I have a Honeywell electronic thermostat and even set low it will not operate the AC. The fan is working. Any ideas?
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 4:11:48 AM EST
Bump. The fellas fixed Jarhead's tuesday. There will be a fix here I'd bet.
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 4:36:32 AM EST
Yeah, [b]ARDOC[/b], go check out [b]Jarhead_22's[/b] thread on A/C problems! If that doesn't help, then come back here and you'll get the same diagnostic help as he received! Eric The(Concerned)Hun[>]:)]
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 4:36:46 AM EST
Is the compressor unit outside the house operating? This is the same problem I had here a couple of days ago, and the AR15.Com Heating and Air Conditioning Army got me hooked right up. Check it out [url=www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?id=132650]here[/url].
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 4:49:42 AM EST
Does Ththermostat indicate COOL? Is outdoor unit making any sound? Did you check for a breaker both in the house (for sure) and one in safety disconnect box at the outdoor unit? Cycle both. One for indoor fan is OK or fan would not be running. What is the plastic thingy and where is it? There is a contactor inside the OD unit; is it pulled in? SOME units have a lock out. To reset, remove all power and wait for a few seconds then restore. Those electronic t-stats are a PIA. They can get confused and hold things off. Remove power and wait for 5 min. Turn back on a page through all the programing and make sure it calls for cooling. Further comments and questions held until you gather more info.
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 5:35:23 AM EST
There may be another reset somewhere. I understand that a/c units have a protector for brownouts and brightouts that will trip and shut it down to protect the motor. You may have to look around for another breaker on the power into the a/c unit outside.
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 9:25:08 AM EST
Brown out resets are extremely rare. Those that do exist normally reset when you interrupt power. Electronic thermostats (an un-necessary complexity IMHO) can do some really goofy stuff sometimes. Power reset or remove batt and interrupt power then reprogram solves most of those. To verify T-stat is calling for cooling, remove power to condensing unit. Remove electrical box cover. Look at main contactor and see if it is pulled in. You can remove 24volt lead to coil to verify if you do not know for sure.
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 11:00:55 AM EST
I had to jump out my defrost control board a while back. It stopped the contactor from pulling in. Been working fine for 3 weeks now. Just have to get one before cold weather gets here. Amazing how much you learn about HVAC units when your house starts warming up!
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 11:22:33 AM EST
Originally Posted By PVFD304: Amazing how much you learn about HVAC units when your house starts warming up!
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I can attest to that, brother!
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 2:37:45 PM EST
Yeh the brown outs are bad on capacitors,as they are in reallity just batteries. They are just thin rapped strips of foil that ecentually hold a charge,never touch both terminals or you will see what i say! best of luck, Bob [8D]
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 3:41:10 PM EST
The compresser is not working at all. The copper/plastic thingy is outside in a box with a handle molded into it so you can pull it. I pulled the batteries out of the control unit waited 5 min and restarted. Yes the setting is on COOL, AUTO FAN. Fan is running, no compresser. Breaker in the house is set. The worst part is I paid extra for that piece of CRAP electronic control!!! This house is brand new, so the builder is coming to look at it but, not until his subcontracter is able. MONDAY afternoon! Its a good 85 in the house. I just bought a 8000btu Kenmore for the living room. I figure I can always use it at the cottage. Thanks guys, as always you're very helpful!
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 3:44:26 PM EST
Do you have a test light or voltmeter? Plastic "thingy" is a non-fused disconnect. Is it Heat Pump (ugh) or simple AC? Talk to us, we can help.
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 5:01:55 PM EST
Did you go to Jarheads problem site? The box out side is the disconect box for your compressor,it has two fuses or breakers that you can pull to turn off the juice to your condensor unit. Then you need to take off the panel that contains the contactor switch(the box that has the spring loaded points .ect) There will be a silver colored oblong ,cilinderly shaped Start/run capacitor. This may well be your preoblem,to see if it is endeed your problem you can take a wooden dowell or a insulated (non conductive) thing and push in on the Tee shaped plastic handle on the contactor points. If the unit comes on but goes off as soon as you release the pressure on the contactor points ,then you probably need to replace the run capacitor. You will need to take the old one with you to the A/C shop,LOCKES or whom ever you use. Remember It is charged and can shock touch only one lead at a time! Disconnect the A/C power when working on the unit! This Is no means the same as calling a service rep,meaning this may not be the problem. But I would check this first! Bob [8D]
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 5:56:55 PM EST
If you have a electrical meter check a few things first. The disconnect. Make sure you have 220v up to that point. The transformer on the furnace/air handler. Make sure it has 220v or 110v (whatever the case maybe) going into it. Then check if its producing 24vdc coming out. If everything has juice so far...go to the condenser outside. Verify you have 24 volt on the contactor. The contactor will be a magnetic pull switch that pulls contacts in when the 24 volt circuit it turned on by the t-stat. If everything has juice up to this point we will look into something else. I'm gonna guess bad transformer on the furnace or bad capacitor on the condenser. Both of these items are easily taken out on spikes, surges or lightning. How old is the unit? Does it have a circuit board in it? Any other info you can give will help make a positive assessement. BTW....my internet service call is 75.00 [;)] Rick
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 6:34:58 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/18/2002 6:40:34 PM EST by bobbyjack]
If your blower fan is coming on then your 24 volt transfomer is good! But listen to the last poster as he knows what he is talking about. If not then its time to start looking a fan motor relay switches(not at this time) lets keep it first and simple. Bob [8D]
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 6:44:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/18/2002 6:46:21 PM EST by ARDOC]
LOL, I will email you the $75 right away! The condenser, furnace, everything is 2-3 months old. Yes there is a circuit board. A few computer chips and a bunch of colored wires. Lets make this interesting! The builder has a cooling/heating guy coming on Monday. I will take guesses until then. I will ship a mag to whoever first guesses what is wrong correctly.
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 7:07:12 PM EST
Originally Posted By ARs4EVER: ..... check if its producing 24vdc coming out. ] Rick
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That should be 24vAC
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 7:07:47 PM EST
I reread your post...If the fan on the inside is running, the transformer is ok. Read the instructions on the digital T-stat. Some of the digital stuff they make will need to be reset under a power failure. Its under the cover. They are more trouble than they are worth sometimes. And thats my final answer. mmmmmm...75.00 or a mag.....I'll take the mag. Rick
Link Posted: 7/18/2002 7:19:59 PM EST
Well kiss my ass and call me a reset button,I dont need no stinking mags! Bob [8D]
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