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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 12/30/2005 12:28:37 PM EDT
89 4runner with a worn out camshaft. Got another camshaft to install in it. Can the "pads" be changed out on the rocker assemblies? The part that "rides" on the lobes of the camshaft?

I realize that by pulling the camshaft that I may bust the seal on the head gasket, so I'm prepared to totally go all the way and pull the head, however, I'm trying to see if I can "cheat" and fix it without going thru all of that. Drained the antifreeze, opened the engine block drain for the coolant........just need to get a hair dryer and stuff it in the upper radiator hose to totally dry out the engine before loosening the head bolts.

Anyway, when I pull the old camshaft out, is there a way to change out the "pads"? Thanks.

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:30:42 PM EDT
Nope the whole rocker arm needs to be replaced..
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:32:21 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Nope the whole rocker arm needs to be replaced..



Thanks. Any idea (off the top of your head) how much those cost?

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:32:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/30/2005 12:32:58 PM EDT by TheRedHorseman]
replace the pads/arms for sure. get a top end gasket set, and drop a timing chain guide in there too as yours is probably worn pretty bad as well.

why did the cam go bad?(mine is at 263k mi and original)
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:35:12 PM EDT
+1 on the timing chain guide. Went in my old Toy (22RE) at 130K. Good idea to replace it every 100K just for preventative maintenance. Cause if that thing goes, you'll do good to limp anywhere.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:38:18 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
replace the pads/arms for sure. get a top end gasket set, and drop a timing chain guide in there too as yours is probably worn pretty bad as well.

why did the cam go bad?(mine is at 263k mi and original)



Don't know why it went bad (this is the truck I drove back from Texas last summer and it made it all the way back without too much shiney stuff on the back couple lobes).

Truck has 175,000 miles on it and as far as I can tell (using carfax), is original mileage.

vmax84

In the end, I'll probably end up pulling the head and having the local machine shop go thru it, but for now, just have to try a cheap fix. Engine runs very smoothly and has good power (for a 4 cylinder) without any hesitation. It is a little loud with the worn cam, however.

Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:40:50 PM EDT
is the cam really worn or does it just need a valve adjustment?
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:41:59 PM EDT
I've got lots of time to get it fixed, since I'm not driving it (keeping it in my pole barn out of the Michigan salty roads).

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:43:18 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
is the cam really worn or does it just need a valve adjustment?



The cam is junk. I pulled the valve cover off and saw first hand that a couple of the lobes, the shiney part, is missing on part of the lobes.

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:46:03 PM EDT
that makes me wonder what would have caused faliure, cams are pretty hard. I'd look to see if those pads failed and let the rocker ride directly on the cam or if there is contamination in the oil due to a worn out chain guide letting the chain eat through the chain cover.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:48:31 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
that makes me wonder what would have caused faliure, cams are pretty hard. I'd look to see if those pads failed and let the rocker ride directly on the cam or if there is contamination in the oil due to a worn out chain guide letting the chain eat through the chain cover.



Thanks. I'll look into this as well. I know just enough to end up costing myself much more money vs. taking it in and having the pros do it!!

vmax84

But, my best friend is an excellant mechanic, so it might be time to invite him over for a couple beers to help me figure this out.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:49:17 PM EDT
Gotta take the little lady out for dinner and then get to work. Thanks for the help.

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 1:06:46 PM EDT
replace rockers w/cam. Learned that one the hard way...it was ugly.

it is about a 1.5 hour job, if that. other lessons learned in process:

Drain coolant when you pop the top to get the rockers off.
replace oil filter
get a magnetized oil plug, drop the pan and put a magnet in it, or something to get rid of the metal shavings. If I had to do it again I would do an oil change w/some cheap oil, run it for a few minutes and flush, maybe a couple times.

My engine tanked after only 20,000 after my cam died.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 4:52:20 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
replace the pads/arms for sure. get a top end gasket set, and drop a timing chain guide in there too as yours is probably worn pretty bad as well.

why did the cam go bad?(mine is at 263k mi and original)



I don't have my service manual handy, but what exactly is the "timing chain guide"? I did quickly look in my manual before running off to work, and I saw a "chain tensioner" and there were two guides.............do you mean replace both of the guides? What about the tensioner?

Thanks.

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 4:55:35 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 4:55:41 PM EDT
If memory serves (and I didn't do my chain guide replacement), there are two plastic 'arms' that serve as guides and tensioners on the 22RE.

I think dad said it was as simple as taking off the timing chain cover and replacing the parts.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 5:03:49 PM EDT
Thank you very much.

vmax84
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 5:23:00 PM EDT
The stock timing chain guides are plastic and most replacements from auto parts stores are junk. Get the metal ones from lc engineering.

For lots of good info about your truck check out www.4crawler.com/4x4/index.shtml
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 5:42:23 PM EDT
I had an '84 Celica with the 22RE. Two things that stand out in my memory from having to tear into the engine.

1. On the bottom side of the intake manifold, towards the front and well hidden, there is a bolt that requires a torx bit to remove.

2. The bolts that hold the timing chain guides in place are pretty small diameter with a thicker shoulder. Do not over tighten these as they break very easily.

Other than those two things, the rest of the job went pretty smoothly.

I don't know if they changed these between '84 and '89.

Link Posted: 12/30/2005 6:39:20 PM EDT
Thanks again for your help.

vmax84
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