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Posted: 9/30/2011 9:15:56 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/30/2011 9:16:27 PM EST by Misinformer]
First off, I'm not a "car" guy.

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. (not my daily driver) It's a 4.0 liter with 170k miles a strait body with no rust and a transmission that doesn't slip.

The motor started knocking so I parked it and it's now leaking oil.

If it does need a motor should I just get what I've heard people call a "crate motor" and go. Or rebuild the one that's in it?

Have you guys had good luck with "crate motors"?

Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:21:57 PM EST
It depends whether you have the funds or know how to replace a new motor.

If the vehicle is paid off is it more economical to replace the motor or just purchase a new vehicle?

Research the cost of a long block and someone to install it since your are not a "car guy."
Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:22:35 PM EST
You could probably have a shop rebuild it for around $1500 more or less, and that would be if you took it out and brought it to them.

Some people don't like Jasper but I think they do quality work and they offer a descent warranty but are usually more expensive than other reman. engine places.

Lastly, there are places like pic a part, pull a part where you could go pull a whole engine but if a bunch of people have picked over all the Fords, you may be missing certain things but you can get whole engines for like $300 or less at these places, just check the odometer and the integrity of the oil if it still has it in there, some places drain it out...some don't...

If you are not a car guy, I would not attempt a rebuild on your own unless you have a lot of time to devote to it.
Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:23:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/30/2011 9:24:52 PM EST by AZFats]
I bought a straight and clean 1998 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 xlt xtra cab with 139000 on the clock about 10 months ago for $3600. I would have a hard time justifying spending the kind of coin it'll take to have a crate motor installed in your rig. If the motor is truly blowed up I'd say bury it deep and go find another, especially if you're "not a car guy" and will therefore being paying for everything every step of the way.

IMHO...
Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:35:51 PM EST
Thanks for your input guys. In no way by putting car guy in quotations a slur.

What I should've said was I'm a dumb ass when it comes to cars!
Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:44:33 PM EST
Have a good mechanic check it out before you decide the motor is toast.
Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:48:50 PM EST
Originally Posted By southeast_scrounger:
Have a good mechanic check it out before you decide the motor is toast.




This, and if it is toast I'd try to find a decent deal on a used motor for it rather than a rebuild.

Since it's a good truck with 4x4 I'd say it's worth fixing.

Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:50:55 PM EST
Does the engine still run?
Link Posted: 9/30/2011 9:57:44 PM EST
Originally Posted By BuckHammer:
Does the engine still run?


Yes it still runs. It sounds just like a car I was in once before it threw a rod.
Link Posted: 10/1/2011 5:21:41 AM EST
Sounds like if it is still running it may be something worth fixing....get a mechanic to look at it.

But I have to say since its a ford you may just want to set it on fire
Link Posted: 10/1/2011 5:31:01 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/1/2011 5:32:45 AM EST by Archtaan]
You have a couple of options depending on how mechanically inclined you are and your tool avail.

Option one, cheapest

You pull the motor, strip it down, have a machine shop bore it, line hone it, put in new cam bearings, resize the rods, deck the block/heads as necessary. Reassemble with a quality manual and rebuild kit and reinstall. About a week turnaround likely depending on machine shop log and turnaround.

Second option,

You buy a replacement motor from a junkyard that you have heard run, swap motors, yours can be the core if needed. Could be done in a day if you have a couple of buddies to help you out.

Third option,

Purchase a reman shortblock or longblock from somewhere. Google is your friend here. Marshall engines has em for $1600 with free shipping. You add your accessory drives, heads etc to the block. Even Advance Auto can get you a shortblock. Again, about 2 days since there are a lot of parts to swap over from one motor to the other.

4th option,

Mechanic, dealer or shop either rebuilds your motor or performs a swap. This is the most expensive option. Make sure you get some kind of written warranty. Probably count on a day or two.

I would try and recondition your original block if possible and save the money on a crate motor unless you really want everything "new" - many crate motors are new internals in a reconditioned block.

A cool option,

Swap in a 302 with a procharger F1r and have a great time. - This will be the most expensive option, but it would be so much fun!

Whatever you do, dont be shady and just put in an oversize crank bearing or some hacker crap to the motor to get it running good enough to flip.
Link Posted: 10/1/2011 5:34:26 AM EST
Dahh, toss a quart of 80w90 in it and call it good



I would get a price on a crate motor and a price on a verifiable low mileage pulled motor compare the two and make a decision on how much you like the truck and how long you plan on keeping it
Link Posted: 10/1/2011 6:55:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/1/2011 6:58:16 PM EST by BuckHammer]
Originally Posted By Misinformer:
Originally Posted By BuckHammer:
Does the engine still run?


Yes it still runs. It sounds just like a car I was in once before it threw a rod.


What company are you insured with? I've got State Farm, and you can throw a Free Towing option on there for like $6.00 every six months. Mine has paid itself off several times over. I've got liability only, and I can still tack that little thing on there. With free towing or some sort of roadside assistance, I would go ahead and drive it, paying particular attention to proper maintenance, until the engine actually does quit. This is doubly true if you have alternate transportation.
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