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Posted: 9/5/2011 11:32:23 AM EST
Sarter is good, I can jump the starter solinoid and it works.

The clutch safety has been removed by a prior owner. I can not fid the male plug for it under the dash. I think that I've found where it has been looped to avoid it.

When I try to test the ignition switch with a prick tester I can not get it to light up

HELP! please.
Link Posted: 9/5/2011 12:44:55 PM EST
The Ignition swith is good.
Link Posted: 9/5/2011 1:23:36 PM EST
neutral safety switch. , on shift or steering column.
Link Posted: 9/5/2011 1:25:47 PM EST
Probably all the California smog equipment choking out the 5.slow....

If you have a Chilton or Haynes manual, track down the clutch switch to ensure it is in good working order or at least properly bypassed.....

Only thing I can think of, i'm not really a Ford guy
Link Posted: 9/5/2011 1:45:14 PM EST
Originally Posted By USMCBuckWild:
Probably all the California smog equipment choking out the 5.slow....


Yup, the cats might kill 6-10 hp...


If you have a Chilton or Haynes manual, track down the clutch switch to ensure it is in good working order or at least properly bypassed..... BYPASSED

Only thing I can think of, i'm not really a Ford guy
>>>>>>>>>>>Kid's car I hav a C-6 Corvette

Link Posted: 9/6/2011 4:11:35 AM EST
lets start again.

so it won't crank over with the key is what I hear.
is that correct?

if you put the car in run, and bypass the solionid, does it start?

when you say you tested the iginition switch, did you turn it to start, or leave it in run?
Link Posted: 9/6/2011 4:16:47 AM EST
Look for fusible links. If one opened up, this is your problem.
Link Posted: 9/6/2011 7:31:06 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/6/2011 7:32:39 AM EST by Interceptor_Knight]
There is no neutral safety switch on a 5 speed stang.
There are 2 pigtails for the clutch under the dash near the pedal assy. One is for the cruise control and the other is for the start safety switch.

Link Posted: 9/7/2011 10:42:38 PM EST
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
There is no neutral safety switch on a 5 speed stang.
There are 2 pigtails for the clutch under the dash near the pedal assy. One is for the cruise control and the other is for the start safety switch.

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/forum_images/TechExchange/blykinsT52C4/pic10.jpg


The one to the right is the starter safety switch and it's been looped to allow the driver to start the car in gear and lurch forward if he's a dumbass.
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 2:48:40 AM EST
The ignition module on the distributor is a likely culprit along with the distributor itself. My daily driven 1990 GT left me stranded two months ago when the distributor quick working which meant no spark. A billet distributor from Summit Racing fixed it and it drives fine with just over 270K miles.
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 12:13:34 PM EST
Check that you're getting voltage to the starter solenoid trigger wire when you push the key to start. If you're getting voltage, bad solenoid.

Disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid before you do this so you don't run yourself over
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 7:54:22 PM EST
Originally Posted By Agilt:
Check that you're getting voltage to the starter solenoid trigger wire when you push the key to start. If you're getting voltage, bad solenoid.

Disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid before you do this so you don't run yourself over




I Jumped the poles, cranks.
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 8:03:17 PM EST
Originally Posted By subjectofcalifornia:
Originally Posted By Agilt:
Check that you're getting voltage to the starter solenoid trigger wire when you push the key to start. If you're getting voltage, bad solenoid.

Disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid before you do this so you don't run yourself over




I Jumped the poles, cranks.


Well yeah, because you're applying 12v direct to the starter. There's a little wire with a rubber boot on it that should be off from the two big posts, thats the one that triggers teh solenoid and you need to make sure you're getting voltage there when you start the key.

Also try hitting the solenoid with a mallet while someone holds the key to start. If it kicks the solenoid and cranks, bad solenoid
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 8:30:10 PM EST
I'm guessing bad solenoid. They go bad frequently. The ignition module, though troublesome, wouldn't be the problem since the car starts by jumping the solenoid. If you eliminate the solenoid and it works, most likely that's the problem.
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 8:51:00 PM EST
Be careful now that you have jumped the solenoid the threads could have been buggered up from jumping them so just telling you to be careful its not a fun one trust me lol
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 8:56:48 PM EST
Well there you go, bad starter solenoid. When my solenoid went bad it actually hung up and would not disengage the starter. It is an easy and cheap repair for you.


Originally Posted By subjectofcalifornia:
Originally Posted By Agilt:
Check that you're getting voltage to the starter solenoid trigger wire when you push the key to start. If you're getting voltage, bad solenoid.

Disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid before you do this so you don't run yourself over




I Jumped the poles, cranks.


Link Posted: 9/8/2011 9:02:21 PM EST

Originally Posted By pavlovwolf:
I'm guessing bad solenoid. They go bad frequently. The ignition module, though troublesome, wouldn't be the problem since the car starts by jumping the solenoid. If you eliminate the solenoid and it works, most likely that's the problem.

I had this problem with a 69 Cougar. I worked on it for almost a week because it would sometimes work and most time not. They are cheap, or were 15 years ago.
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 5:10:12 AM EST
try jumping the solenoid from the big (hot all the time) to the small post (trigger). If no joy, then its a bad solenoid
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 6:20:33 AM EST
Originally Posted By racinfast002:
try jumping the solenoid from the big (hot all the time) to the small post (trigger). If no joy, then its a bad solenoid


Done! That was the 2nd thing that I tried.
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 6:36:59 AM EST
install push button to firewall solenoid.
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 6:48:26 AM EST
Originally Posted By parlay100:
install push button to firewall solenoid.


Yup, Like a Honda S2000.

I told my son that we could use a big throw lever
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 10:47:49 AM EST
Originally Posted By subjectofcalifornia:
The Ignition swith is good.


How did you determine this?

If you do not have current at the clutch switch when the key is turned to start, there is an issue with wiring, PCM or switch.
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 10:39:28 PM EST
replaced it with a new unit same results.
Link Posted: 9/10/2011 12:25:20 AM EST
before digging too deep into the wiring, did you check/reset the rollover switch in the trunk to make sure it didn't get tripped/fail?
Link Posted: 9/10/2011 6:10:33 AM EST
Originally Posted By cda97:
The ignition module on the distributor is a likely culprit along with the distributor itself. My daily driven 1990 GT left me stranded two months ago when the distributor quick working which meant no spark. ....

Originally Posted By FSTRK:
before digging too deep into the wiring, did you check/reset the rollover switch in the trunk to make sure it didn't get tripped/fail?

The problem is that the starter will not crank. The TFI module and Fuel pump switch are not part of the starter circuit.
Link Posted: 9/10/2011 9:57:15 PM EST
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
Originally Posted By cda97:
The ignition module on the distributor is a likely culprit along with the distributor itself. My daily driven 1990 GT left me stranded two months ago when the distributor quick working which meant no spark. ....

Originally Posted By FSTRK:
before digging too deep into the wiring, did you check/reset the rollover switch in the trunk to make sure it didn't get tripped/fail?

The problem is that the starter will not crank. The TFI module and Fuel pump switch are not part of the starter circuit.


Yes! someone has read the thread well!
Link Posted: 9/11/2011 5:02:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/11/2011 5:04:31 PM EST by hotrodlincoln545]
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/819021-there-no-crank-checklist.html


If you need it, IM me your email for a electrical and vac diagram. I got the pdf years ago, and is specifically for a 89 5.0
Link Posted: 9/24/2011 8:47:25 PM EST
Fuseable link behind the ac stuff in the dash.
Link Posted: 9/26/2011 4:49:01 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/29/2011 4:35:47 PM EST
IF IT CRANKS WHEN YOU JUMP THE SOLENOID FROM THE BATTERY POSS. TO THE CRANK CONNECTION THE SOLENOID IS GOOD. CHECK WITH A TEST LIGHT TO SEE IF WHILE CRANKING THERE IS VOLTAGE AT THE WIRE.
THEN WORK BACK TO THE CLUTCH SWITCH AND THEN TO THE IGNITION SWITCH . THE IGNITION SWITCH GETS POWER FROM THE FUSE BOX THROUGH A FUSEABLE LINK.
I F YOU NEED MORE HELP ASK AWAY AS I FIX MANY OF THESE AND OWN MANY FAST ONES MYSELF
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