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Posted: 8/20/2023 1:18:59 PM EST
So we have a 10x20 covered deck, and one of the outdoor GFCI receptacles is right by the back door on the deck.

I'd like to tap into this and run a surface mounted PVC conduit up to a 2 gang box for fan control and light control (dimmer if possible) then run PVC conduit up to the ceiling where it will terminate into a receptacle for the rope light as well as two ceiling boxes.

Questions:

1. Does the electrical need to be liquid tight? If so what do I need in the way of switches and dimmer?

2. I was going to use surface mount PVC the whole way as I assume it's required. Do I need to continue to use PVC or can I simply terminate the conduit at the ceiling and run Romex to standard blue Carlon boxes?

3. Can I just use silicone to seal the surface mount gang box where the GFCI is? That's how it is today but not sure if that is acceptable or another example of how the builder is a hack.

Anything else to watch out for? I'm super comfortable around electrical but I've not run it outdoors before so don't want to be arrogant and think I have this and do something stupid.
Link Posted: 8/26/2023 9:28:45 PM EST
[#1]
Quoted:
So we have a 10x20 covered deck, and one of the outdoor GFCI receptacles is right by the back door on the deck.

I'd like to tap into this and run a surface mounted PVC conduit up to a 2 gang box for fan control and light control (dimmer if possible) then run PVC conduit up to the ceiling where it will terminate into a receptacle for the rope light as well as two ceiling boxes.

Questions:

1. Does the electrical need to be liquid tight? If so what do I need in the way of switches and dimmer?

2. I was going to use surface mount PVC the whole way as I assume it's required. Do I need to continue to use PVC or can I simply terminate the conduit at the ceiling and run Romex to standard blue Carlon boxes?

3. Can I just use silicone to seal the surface mount gang box where the GFCI is? That's how it is today but not sure if that is acceptable or another example of how the builder is a hack.

Anything else to watch out for? I'm super comfortable around electrical but I've not run it outdoors before so don't want to be arrogant and think I have this and do something stupid.
View Quote


1. Yeah you need weather resisted materials and devices.. 2g weatherproof box with an in use w.p. cover.
2. You could use UF, but you still need weatherproof boxes and covers so you might as well do conduit the whole way.
3. I assume current box is flush mount and not surface?
4. Are you capable of fishing a wire inside the wall?
Link Posted: 8/27/2023 6:01:56 PM EST
[#2]
I just did this.  I didn’t bother with the wall control, the remote works fine.
Link Posted: 9/5/2023 10:32:53 AM EST
[#3]
You could run UF-B without having to use conduit, and easier to hide. Make your terminations in a J box with a weather proof CGB. I like Appleton. For UF-B, Appleton yellow CGB should work. UF-B is usually less expensive than romex also.

You dont have to use PVC conduit. You could run EMT as long as its covered from the elements, or you could use EMT compression fittings if you want tight connections.
If you use PVC conduit, you may need grounding adapters.

If you do use conduit, don't use romex. You're not supposed to use romex in conduit. You can, but not advised and typically against code, plus it makes snaking a lot harder and makes the cost of your job more expensive. Romex doesn't do well in the heat after a long time.
Just go to the home center and buy 12ga or 14ga (whatever your home uses) 3 conductor wire. Solid or stranded. Its cheaper than romex. Stranded is easier to work with obviously.

Im not a licensed electrician, but my work is oil and gas measurement and instumentarion and electrical/automation. All my electrical work is outdoors and exposed to the elements. However I mainly deal with 12-24VDC and direct burial 16ga wire.
Link Posted: 9/5/2023 8:19:39 PM EST
[#4]
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Quoted:
Just go to the home center and buy 12ga or 14ga (whatever your home uses) 3 conductor wire. Solid or stranded. Its cheaper than romex. Stranded is easier to work with obviously.
.
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Are you suggesting he use rubber extension cord? What exact wiring method are you referring to here?
Link Posted: 9/5/2023 11:06:45 PM EST
[#5]
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Quoted:


Are you suggesting he use rubber extension cord? What exact wiring method are you referring to here?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just go to the home center and buy 12ga or 14ga (whatever your home uses) 3 conductor wire. Solid or stranded. Its cheaper than romex. Stranded is easier to work with obviously.
.


Are you suggesting he use rubber extension cord? What exact wiring method are you referring to here?

Dont be obtuse

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File

Link Posted: 9/6/2023 12:07:26 AM EST
[#6]
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Quoted:

Dont be obtuse
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You weren’t very clear about that. Why not give a type in your suggestion?
Link Posted: 9/7/2023 1:23:40 PM EST
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You could run UF-B without having to use conduit, and easier to hide. Make your terminations in a J box with a weather proof CGB. I like Appleton. For UF-B, Appleton yellow CGB should work. UF-B is usually less expensive than romex also.

You dont have to use PVC conduit. You could run EMT as long as its covered from the elements, or you could use EMT compression fittings if you want tight connections.
If you use PVC conduit, you may need grounding adapters.

If you do use conduit, don't use romex. You're not supposed to use romex in conduit. You can, but not advised and typically against code, plus it makes snaking a lot harder and makes the cost of your job more expensive. Romex doesn't do well in the heat after a long time.
Just go to the home center and buy 12ga or 14ga (whatever your home uses) 3 conductor wire. Solid or stranded. Its cheaper than romex. Stranded is easier to work with obviously.

Im not a licensed electrician, but my work is oil and gas measurement and instumentarion and electrical/automation. All my electrical work is outdoors and exposed to the elements. However I mainly deal with 12-24VDC and direct burial 16ga wire.
View Quote


Thanks,
I assumed you meant THHN.

I ran nearly a thousand feet of THHN through EMT at this house and it hasn't burned down yet so I am not a complete idiot. During construction the project manager let me run EMT throughout the house for running electric under each sink for dedicated POU heaters and hair dryers. I did a lot of research on code for that project and settled on THHN and 3/4" EMT. I have all the tools to work with it so I may just stick with that.

So I can just run a regular metal box with a regular switch and regular switch plate if it's covered? It's about 7' inside the edge of the roofline.

Just trying to adhere to code and do it right. Just because I'm not a professional doesn't mean I am or want to be a hack. But it means I need to learn since I've not done anything outside yet.
Link Posted: 9/7/2023 1:32:39 PM EST
[#8]
The location you're describing is considered a "damp location".
Link Posted: 9/7/2023 2:00:52 PM EST
[#9]
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Quoted:
The location you're describing is considered a "damp location".
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What's the technical difference between damp and wet from a code standpoint?
Link Posted: 9/7/2023 2:24:18 PM EST
[#10]
OP,,,Use all PVC and paint it all before you install it.
Link Posted: 9/7/2023 3:03:34 PM EST
[#11]
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Quoted:
OP,,,Use all PVC and paint it all before you install it.
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Why would I do that? Grey is awesome. My house is grey.
Link Posted: 9/7/2023 6:07:26 PM EST
[#12]
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Quoted:


What's the technical difference between damp and wet from a code standpoint?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
The location you're describing is considered a "damp location".


What's the technical difference between damp and wet from a code standpoint?

Wet location is subject to saturation, ie. outside, no roof, underground, etc. I was leading to the fact that it's not a dry location.
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