Ok, here we go.
I have up for sale a 1980 camaro Z-28. I will list details of the car below, and i will list everything as accurate as i possibly can. i will not mislead anyone. if you have ANY questions about the car, please email or call me and we can talk. i am very open to discussion, and will answer with complete honesty.
1980 camaro z-28. original paint. T-Tops. NON-stock 350 motor, Rebuilt 350 tranny (about 30-40K ago). GM 10 bolt in the rear with 4.10's or 4.11's (can't remember which specifically) with posi trac (not sure of make). all the fun suspension stuff, sway bar, ladder bars, subframe, the works. rear tires are (i believe) 265/50-15. they are pretty wide. the have about 2000 miles on the rear ones. front ones i don't know, but they look decent. not sure of make on the rims, and i don't think they are stock.
Now for the specifics:
Engine: STRONG motor, it is a built 350 motor, internally balanced, i believe it has stock heads, not sure of the cam. i raps out at about 5500 to 6000 rpms. the intake is Edelbrock performer, part number 2101 i think. Carb is Edelbrock 600 cfm electric choke. The car is setup for Nitrous Oxide. i have personally not run Nitrous through the motor. the nitrous system needs a little electrical work, i.e. a switch needs to be installed for the activation (this is what i am told). brackets for the bottle, as well as plate under the carb are installed, and lines run to the tank bracket (which is in the trunk, by the way) for hookup to the bottle. as far as i know, the system is functional, except for the electrical. the ingnition system is MSD. the motor could use a good tune up, and timing needs to be readjusted, i believe it is a degree off or so. the oil in it is about 500 miles old and is still very clean. doug thorley tri-Y headers, into true dual exhast, with flowmaster super 40 mufflers, so its not quite by any means. headers are wrapped with insulating wrap. it could use a new thermostat and fluid change. the fuel goes through a pressure gauge (psi is about 6.5 lbs). the fuel is pumped by an electric pump that is about 300 miles old.
Body: I would say the body is decent. i don't believe there is any rust. the plastic body moldings on the car most definetally need new paint, as one can see. the molding under the front bumper is cracked. the steel on the car is pretty good. there would need some smoothing out needing to be done over the drivers side front wheel wheel, basically it is just some shallow dents, about 3 inches long each, but very shallow!!!! when sitting in the drivers seat, one can see what i am talking about perfectly, it is not near as noticeable out side the car. the passenger side hood hinge is a little tired, so you have to keep pressure on the hood out wards while lifting the hood up so as to not scrape on the windsheild, where it scrapes on it, is below the field of view, inside or outside the car. on the drivers side rear quarter panel, there is what looks to be a crappy fix job of a dent. it is nothing that would require the entire quarter panel to be removed and a new one installed. a good auto body place would be able to smooth her out just fine, if that so suits you. the T-Tops are NOT the stock tops, i had to buy replacement ones, so the plastic does NOT match in color for the rest of the interior. the passenger side plastic is cracked and not in very good condition. i have the drivers side plastic (right color) but it is not installed. it is in the trunk for whoever gets the car. spoiler is perfect. this is the original paint. it is decent for 26 year old paint. the accent stripes and induction stickers are faded and or cracked or just plane not there from wear. trunk is perfect. solid closing of the lid. there are two holes cut for subwoofers, 10-12 inch, with wires run for an amp. no amp or subs come with the car. don't ask me for them, because i never had any nor were there any in the car when i bought it. besides, why cover up the beautiful growl the exhaust makes, with other non-deserving loud noises? just kidding.......... oh yeah, before i forget, the passenger side door does not open, i believe some of the linkage is not connected. when i got the car, the door worked fine, then one day it would not open. besides, who needs doors when you have t-tops?
Driveline: generally solid. Transmission is a chevy 350, rebuilt about 30-40K ago, shift kit, and ratchet shifter. the shifter is B&M, but i am not sure of which one. you can ratchet the car down a gear, or up a gear. to get the car from park to reverse, neutral or drive, you pick the shifter up about 1/4 inch and then slide it backwards. from there, you may "bump" the shifter down twice into 1st gear, up into second, back down to first, then to second, then to drive, and so on and so forth. most of you gear heads know how it works. i took the car out to make sure everything was the way i left it, and on occasion, when in drive, the tranny did not want to shift gears until about 3000-4000 rpms in each gear. when manually shifting it is was firm and quick. i am not sure why this was happening. the axle is a gm 10 bolt with 4.10/4.11's and a posi. the brakes in the REAR ARE DISK BRAKES!!!! same for the front, obviously. if you do your own work on your vehichles, you will apreciate this next part. i designed my exhaust with the transmission in mind. essentially, the exhaust is three separate parts. you may unbolt the exhaust at the end of the headers, and before the tail pipes, and remove that entire section of exhaust for easy access to the driveline. Trust me, this was a good idea. it makes things ALOT simpler.
Interior: it is in fair condition. cloth interior, with seat covers, and i don't think the seats are in that good of condition. i beleive the original cloth is worn and torn, but i am not entirely sure. i forgot to look under them before i left the car, and i would rather tell you that they are worn/torn and have them be nice, than tell you they are nice and have them be worn/torn. orignial gauges except for an autometer tach.
Electrical: could use some work. not bad, but it ain't that good. there have been some after market accessories installed on this machine, and the electrical just isn't great. i think there are some minor issues, such as the windsheild wipers don't always want to stop when you tell them too. sometimes the radio cuts out. not sure why that is. those are the only things i can think at the moment, and i don't think there is anything other than that, but i am not 100% sure.
THE ODOMETER IS NOT CORRECT!!! IT SAYS 6500 MILES OR SO, AND IT IS WAY OFF! the speedo is way off, and thus so is the tach. all i know is that 3000 rpms in drive is 72 miles per hour, on flat ground. it is WAY off. WAY WAY WAY off! ok? i think at about 45-50 mph it reads about 70 or so. easy fix, you just have to figure out which gear you need for the cable on the transmission end.
ok, so the car drives nicely, but it is not an everyday driver. i personally drove the car from butte montana, to denver colorado, about 800 miles and the only thing i had go wrong was al little vapor locking going on right out side of denver (it was about 90 degrees that day), and a bad sunburn from leaving the t-tops off for 500 straight miles. that being said, it was the most enjoyable road trip i have ever taken. i would NOT recommend driving the car back to where ever you may be. i would trailer it, or car dolly it or something. i say this because of the RPM's the motor runs at. i drove 65-70 most of the way (except for the times i decided to open her up a little bit-- just for grins) driving at 2500-3000 rpms is comfortable, but not when you don't have cruise control-- i don't know if the car has it or not, but i know that if it does have it, it doesn't work. i just can't remember. Get this: i got 16 mpg the most of the way, until i hit some high head winds, and then it dropped to 11. i don't know what kind of milage the car gets just bombing around town, probably not very good, especially if you have your foot involved. the car is a blast to drive, and awesome for hot summer nights. its just an all around fun car. the heater core is no good. i believe the car was set up for A/C but it is not anymore.
I am in Butte Montana, the Camaro is in the Denver Area. the title is signed, clean and ready for transfer, and stored in a safe at the time being. it is in my name. paypal transfer of a non refundable 1000 dollars must be made within 48 hours. we can talk about the rest of the payment when the time comes. money order, cash, personal check whatever, but the money must clear one way or another before the car and title is handed over. if you have a better idea for payment, lets talk about it, i am open to discussion. i am not open to anyone asking me to take payments on a car, i WILL NOT DO IT. sorry, to much bull for me to deal with. buyer must figure out how to get the car from denver to where ever, i am not responsible for shipment, or delivery or whatever. you come and get the car, or arrange for someone to pick it up. sorry, about all that, but it is difficult selling a car online, and it is even more difficult selling one 800 miles away online. Fair enough? i also reserve the right to end the auction whenever i may please, as i have had many possible buyers ask about the car without it being listed. i took the camaro around town to make sure everything was still in order, and i had 5 people ask to buy it, but the problem was, everyone wanted to make payments, except for one guy, who was a collector. the collector was pretty sure he was going to buy it, until the home front laid the hammer down.
ok, i know there has got to be some things i forgot, but as you can tell, i tried to be as specific as i can be. i shoot people straight, and that doesn't change online. i have tried to represent this car to the best of my ability exactly the way it is. i would like to get some more pictures of the car put up, but i have to have my brother do it, (that is where the car is) so bare with me. if you want a picture of something specific, let me know, and give me a little time to get it. i don't want this to be a hassle for anyone but myself, which includes putting pressure on someone who gets nothing out of the deal to hurry up and do something for me. if you would like to speak further about the car, please call or email me, and leave a message if i don't answer. I WILL call you back. my number is 303-868-7174. Dustin. i say again, Please ask if you have questions, because chances are, someone else has the exact same question.
the description seems a little weird because i just copied and pasted it off on online auction.
my asking price is $3000.00. trades considered always.
(trying to get pics of the interior)