User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:25:54 AM EDT
[#1]
Oil is too thick. Will cause dents in the shoulder.
Imperial Sizing Wax is the best lube. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:30:15 AM EDT
[#2]
I used full synthetic royal purple oil for FL sizing .223. Works for me, and I've never seen a dent on any of my cases. I think I'm using 5w30. I also use the same oil on my AR, no problems there either.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:58:05 AM EDT
[#3]
You're using it to lube your bolt? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:02:45 AM EDT
[#4]
I use this stuff called Dillon case lubricant.
It works pretty good. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:20:27 AM EDT
[#5]
it'll work as a resizing lube, easy to put on. PITA to remove. There's a bunch of resizing lubes out there: Dillon, One Shot (had to menton it), RCBS, Lee, Imperial sizing wax. Lube isn't a place to cheap out when reloading IMHO
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:47:58 AM EDT
[#6]
+1 |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 10:02:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Imperial is the best case lube, and it is dirt cheap as well.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 10:05:12 AM EDT
[#8]
I use Hornady One Shot. Easy to apply easier to remove (because I don't).
Some guys have had problems with it, but I have only had one stuck case and that was with a brand new die. I had more stuck cases with the Lee paste lube and it's a PITA to apply. I would not use motor oil. Too much of a chance of contaminating the charge or the primer. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 10:18:06 AM EDT
[#9]
There are many ways to do things and many products to use.
I prefer to use a product specifically produced to lube cases. And, I purchase ENOUGH so I don't run out, during a loading session. Lesson learned, from living in Hawaii. Though, in an emergency, when things CAN'T WAIT, I can see that someone may want a "field expedient" fix. Some have used Pam cooking spray (among other things). So..........IF YOU want to use motor oil (Syn or Dino) that's up to you. Though, as others have mentioned there are some drawbacks. Handloading is part experimentation. Hey, IF someone on YouTube used "snot" would you want to use that too? LOL. Aloha, Mark |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 3:29:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Get a can of Crisco spray on cooking oil...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 3:45:13 PM EDT
[#11]
I prefer not to use petroleum based oils or synthetics to reduce the issue of primer or powder contamination.
I also no longer use Hornady One Shot as I've seen too many stuck cases using it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:20:18 PM EDT
[#12]
If you don't let the Hornady One-Shot dry after applying it you are guaranteed a stuck case. Let it dry first and it will never stick.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:37:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Dillon case lube, or Imperial.
Depends if you want spray, (Dillon) or solid applied with fingers, (Imperial) |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:39:46 PM EDT
[#14]
I use Moble 1 synthetic 0/20 weight oil on all of my guns and reloaders, not on my brass. I use Lee case lube cut down with 1 part lube,water & alcohol on a pad. Then use a Q tip to lube the neck. After resizing I clean the brass in corn cob and clean my dies and press WD40. I use a sealent on my rounds to keep water and oil from contaminating them. Alot of gun oils contain synthetics. A buddy of mine shoots competition and had problems contamination from synthetics oil tranfered from the gun to the round. that's IMHO. Mike |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 6:39:07 PM EDT
[#15]
I've used straight weight motor oil and light gun grease to lube in a pinch. I sure as heck wouldn't dip a case in any lube, including Dillon or Lee or others intended for reloading.
Wipe a tiny bit on with your fingers, and don't use it on any more cases than necessary until you can get a proper lube. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 6:52:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Motor oils are designed for motors. They do not have the lubricating properties necessary for sizing brass.
Vegetable/animal oils have much better properties since they are triacylglycerols. When the pressure breaks them down, the remaining fatty acid chains immediately bond strongly to the zinc and copper surface, stabilizing the film. This does not happen with petroleum products, they break down and lose lubricity. Synthetic oils are even more unreactive. While they can be more stable to heat, this isn't an issue here as the oil is total loss, it is not recirculated. It is easily pushed away from the brass-steel interface. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:06:08 PM EDT
[#17]
Well I haven't had any problems yet using royal purple as a case lube, and I've loaded about 2k rounds of .223 and have had about one or two stuck cases. I just put enough on my fingertips get a slight film on the case. If something negative happens to any of my rounds in the future that I can attribute to using motor oil then I'll stop using it. All the lube gets wiped or tumbled off after I do a final inspection with a case gauge. To each his own I guess.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:56:55 PM EDT
[#18]
Imperial sizing wax and Lee case lube for most everything, Mobil 1 synthetic is for the 50 BMG F/L resizing duties, no stuck cases in my dies.
Keith |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/14/2008 9:20:04 PM EDT
[#19]
I sized about 1000 rounds over the past few days with Mobil's synthetic 0w20 without a single stuck case. I wear a nitrile glove on my left hand and barely dip my index finger in the oil. I spread the oil on my thumb and middle finger and smear it on the case while putting it in the shell holder. One little "dip" lasts about ten or so cases. I tumble the cases afterward.
Someone further up posted an instance where his buddy's cartridge came into contact with the oil from his gun and killed his primer. I'm not buying it. This oil vs. primer torture test pretty much has convinced me that oil on a seated primer is not going to do much. I also don't understand the poster that stated synthetic motor oil is "scraped" away from the metal surfaces under pressure. What you're talking about is an oil's viscosity shear stability. I also don't believe that vegetable oil has better shear stability than a full synthetic motor oil. Not without some actual research, that is. ETA-Didn't notice any dents in the brass from using the synthetic. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/14/2008 9:28:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Do a test,, size one with the oil, then size the next with a good lube like Dillons, or Imperial wax.
You will see a difference in the feel of how the case sizes,, the regular lube will size smoothly, while the motor oil starts off harder, then feels like it binds, then lets go all of a sudden. Motor oil will work,, but it's just not as easy. BTDT,, got several T shirts. 'Borg |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/14/2008 9:51:35 PM EDT
[#21]
I've got Frankford Arsenal case lube in a pump sprayer. Although the two feel SLIGHTLY different to me, the difference was negligible. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/17/2008 7:32:01 PM EDT
[#22]
when using one shot you should let it dry? Is this true? Maybe I should read the instructions
 I too have used Mobil1 Syn. - had a little cup and would dip my fingers in and coat the brass. It does a nice job and seems OK to me. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/18/2008 3:40:39 AM EDT
[#23]
I just resized around 500 LC cases using Mobil 1. It was the first time I've used it. I had no stuck cases, no dented necks, and it was much smoother. I had no problems at all. I lubed every 3rd one.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/18/2008 12:29:25 PM EDT
[#24]
Great, can you now verify the removal process? |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/18/2008 12:44:32 PM EDT
[#25]
Is tumbling really a PITA? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/18/2008 12:54:05 PM EDT
[#26]
Messy, makes cases excessively slippery and must be removed.
Lee Case Lube is what they use to form cases, bullet jackets and other deep drawing operations. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/18/2008 11:43:39 PM EDT
[#27]
I like the Dillon lube personally. To each his own. I clean by hand rather than tumble thus far, but it's only a matter of time, on the condition that the wife doesn't find out (yeah right). Every one has a different way of doing things. Find your niche and stick with it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/19/2008 6:47:20 AM EDT
[#28]
I tumbled them in walnut for about 30 minutes, just like normal. They came out dry and shiny, just like normal. I can post up a pic if you would like, but I imagine we all know what tumbled brass looks like. I've used (and still have bottles of) RCBS and Hornidy case lube, which both work too. The Mobil 1 seemed to be smoother. |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/19/2008 7:07:13 PM EDT
[#29]
Lee Resizing Lube is working for me. I am retired and have plenty of time so I just rub a very thin coat on the case with my fingers and it works great. Some people mix it with mineral spirits and use a spray bottle. it is a great product.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/20/2008 4:58:00 AM EDT
[#30]
I use mobil1 for all my resizing and it works very well. The oil tumbles off very easily and sizing is VERY smooth!!!!
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
