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Posted: 8/9/2007 5:04:06 PM EDT
well...I had a no4mk1 enfield some time ago and sold it...regretted it.

got a No4mk1 Savage / US property marked one from Century as a gunsmith special.....figured I would get myself a project gun.

Needs a safety, front sight, rear sight, magazine....

if anyone has extra parts, i'm open to donations

Link Posted: 8/10/2007 8:41:17 AM EDT
ok so it failed the bullet test....

what would you guys suggest I do with this? I got $80 into this Savage Enfield.



worth restoring still?
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 10:12:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/10/2007 10:21:49 AM EDT by ZekeMenuar]

My criteria for fixing an old milsurp is pretty simple. If I can do all the work at home, and the pitting isn't too bad, it's a candidate for restoration.

If I have to take it to a gunsmith, or sink too much money into it, it's a parts gun. I "might" spring for a cut & crown if the rest of the gun is in good shape.

The wood looks like it's in pretty good shape.

The pitting would have me concerned, as would failing the bullet test.

I think I'd make this a parts gun.

ZM
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 10:24:53 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ZekeMenuar:
My criteria for fixing an old milsurp is pretty simple. If I can do all the work at home, and the pitting isn't too bad, it's a candidate for restoration.

If I have to take it to a gunsmith, or sink too much money into it, it's a parts gun. I "might" spring for a cut & crown if the rest of the gun is in good shape.

The wood looks like it's in pretty good shape.

The pitting would have me concerned, as would failing the bullet test.

I think I'd make this a parts gun.

ZM


damn now i need another...
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 10:52:02 AM EDT
Hell the wood looks damn good compared to what most places are selling nowadays. I'd strip all of the rust and what bluing is left on the metal off with naval jelly and then reblue. Get yourself those few replacement parts and you are in business.
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 11:35:57 AM EDT

Originally Posted By P229SAS:
Hell the wood looks damn good compared to what most places are selling nowadays. I'd strip all of the rust and what bluing is left on the metal off with naval jelly and then reblue. Get yourself those few replacement parts and you are in business.


well tonight i will be removing the rest of the wood from the rifle, as theres rust under there also of course...looks like it was dug up in some farmland or something.

anyhow i ran a bore snake through twice, was REAL gritty in there, front of snake had just a cake layer of rust....

inside the bore looks pretty good though, cant complain. VERY strong rifling.

i will be shopping for parts. worst case, have it recrowned.

again, I am open to parts donations
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 12:13:56 PM EDT

Originally Posted By P229SAS:
Hell the wood looks damn good compared to what most places are selling nowadays. I'd strip all of the rust and what bluing is left on the metal off with naval jelly and then reblue. Get yourself those few replacement parts and you are in business.


What is naval jelly?
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 12:43:42 PM EDT

Originally Posted By dallasfromdallas:

Originally Posted By P229SAS:
Hell the wood looks damn good compared to what most places are selling nowadays. I'd strip all of the rust and what bluing is left on the metal off with naval jelly and then reblue. Get yourself those few replacement parts and you are in business.


What is naval jelly?


Serious heavy duty rust removing stuff.

My method is a little softer.
I soak the offending rust in CLP for two or three days and clean off with brass wire wheel. I used this method on a nasty Turk Mauser and it came out looking pretty good

The pitting is the key. If there is good metal under the rust then the gun is a candidate.

I lucked out on my basket cases. Most of the bad pitting was below the stockline.

ZM
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 12:45:11 PM EDT
Its basically phosphoric acid, which eats away rust and corrosion. The same stuff is in the Birchwood Casey Rust and Blue Remover but the Naval Jelly is much less expensive. You can pick it up in any Lowes near your house.

You basically just spray or rub it on, let sit for about 10-15 minutes and scrub/rinse it off. Repeat until all bluing and rust is gone.
Link Posted: 8/10/2007 12:48:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By dallasfromdallas:
What is naval jelly?


You know that stuff you dig out of your belly button at the end of the day?

Yup. Works great on rust.

Link Posted: 8/10/2007 1:04:37 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Local:

Originally Posted By dallasfromdallas:
What is naval jelly?


You know that stuff you dig out of your belly button at the end of the day?

Yup. Works great on rust.





ill have to see about that


i think the easiest way to refinish the metal is Alumahyde II.

paint it on, let it cure, 2 weeks later you got a great finish. inexpensive too.
Link Posted: 8/11/2007 4:49:39 PM EDT
As promised. If you have 56k, pack a lunch.

Ishy NoI MkIII. Finished with Alumahyde II semi gloss.
The wood was spit coated and finished with Minwax Tung oil finish
FWIW. The Minwax product is a varnish. Not a tung oil. It comes off as too shiny and too thick.
Sure is pretty though. Looks almost like a presentation grade SMLE.







No4MkI Mutt. According to the cartouches and stamps this gun has been around the world a couple of times.
Finished with Rust-o-leum High Temp paint and Behrs #600 Tung Oil. Looks pretty close to a regular beat up issue gun which was my intent.







My other SMLE demanded to be let out to play with the others.
This gun has the original paint metal finish.
The wood is finished with real Tung Oil cut about 50% with mineral spirits.





ZM

<­BR>


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