I don't see any posts after 2013 for this so I figured I would ask if anyone is still doing this?

And if pure silicone oil is OK on aluminum?

Yep, I still treat mine with pure silicone. I just posted pics in the last couple pages here

Silicone

Ok sweet. Have you done this with any aluminum? Most of the info I've seen was for SS. Just making sure...

Most def. It will not adversely affect aluminum in the least.  I have been using the 100% sold on Amazon and keep it in the Mason jar for reuse, adding to the jar as it gets low.
The process has been easy and is far more effective than any other. I currently am using the process on 3 serviceable cans.

I saw this link on another post but it doesn't say 100%, it just says high purity

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJNNEJ0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TPMH7VD1G0R7&coliid=I22MRT1FZ9RHN2

I just treated the aluminum baffles from my TiRant 9 can.

Purchased 100% silicone on ebay....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261995872882?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I cleaned the baffles first with CLP and put them in a 200 degree oven for about an hour.  I then immediately put them in a glass jar and poured the silicone over them and let them soak for about an hour or until completely cool.  

I then took them out and let them drip dry for about an hour followed by returning them to a 150 degree oven for another 40 minutes or so.  I did this to help bake the silicone in a bit more plus they come out much dryer but still with a thin film of silicone on them which I like.  I will save the silicone in the glass jar for future treatments.

I reassembled the can and shot it twice and with the light film of silicone still on the baffles it was very quiet.  I have not cleaned it yet but I think it should be pretty easy after this treatment.

Here is how I treat either of my two Outback IID's with this silicone and purchased here
Amazon Silicone
Preheat oven 275 place in small cake pan and bake for 10-15 minutes


Remove and put both tube and core in mason jar filled with silicon purchased on Amazon until cool/room temp.


Remove and and drain for as long as you like, wiping down outside


Shoot


This is after a minimum of 300 Gemtech's .22 rounds and cleaned with paper towel and bore snake

I've been wanting try this for a long time.  I'll play with it on the Mask HD and let you know.  

Here are my thoughts after having worked with this stuff on the medical side of things:

Silicone is generally accepted as biocompatible, meaning it shouldn't harm living tissue.  Just about every disposable medical device has silicone on it or in it (needles, IVs, valves, etc).  Having said that, it's generally frowned upon to allow it to mist and enter into the lungs.  I had to set up one manufacturing process where we sprayed into a protective cover that went over a scalpel.  It was a prototype machine that required manual operation from several feet away.  Even though we were only spraying micrograms of silicone, it would still coat the operators safety glasses.  We joked he was going to quickly develop "slick lung" and gave him a face mask and shut it down as soon as possible we could fully automate it.

10,000 to 12,500 cST is a thicker viscosity.  I don't know why, I always liked working with the thicker stuff better.  It gets EVERYWHERE way too easily.  

When you get a shot or an IV inserted, the reason why it goes in so easily is because A) the needle is freakin sharp, and B) it has a coating of silicone oil on it.  The needles will have it baked on.  For a thinner layer, the silicone is cut with scary chemicals like hexane and surfactant-like additives, dipped, and then baked.  

My recommendation is if you do this, don't leave much left in the can because the blow back will not exactly be healthy for you.  I'm not going to say it's toxic either, but the less you get in your lungs the better.  I would be especially wary of getting a lung full of vaporized DOT 5 with all of its crazy additives.  Again, not saying don't use it, just don't leave the stuff puddled in there like you would in wet a suppressor if you're going to do it.  I feel better about handling "the Dip" than imagining breathing in a mist of silicone.

Oh, and it's 100% fine for aluminum if anyone is still wondering.

It definitely does smoke a little depending how much you leave on your parts/baffles.  But...it also makes for a great ablative.

Interesting. Well I guess I will go slightly dryer than "drip dry"

As I said earlier...after soaking the baffles until they were cooled....I put them back in the oven at about 150-175 degrees for about 45 minutes which did dry them up a bit.

No reason to. You will find the link I provided for silicone has been tested, proven successful, published and many are using the method . There will be no inhalation issues and personally I would be far more concerned with the powder, lead and other metals in the ammo we use.
Not sure why the poster came in to post a reply(maybe needed attention) to the thread with no exp, not to mention why he would recommend a thicker viscosity or different process.
The first round will clear any silicone in its path and the rest generally hangs on the baffles if you are concerned.

For those that want to reinvent the wheel

Original Article

I wish my GM22 turned out like yours after my treatment.  I used dot 5 and it didn't do shit for my gm22.

I hear you, I went through the same thing. It surprises me when I read those that still use dot 5 with poor or less than mediocre results. When it is time to treat any of my cans with silicone again, I have started to spraying them down with slip 2000 degreaser and tossing them in the dishwasher.
I will recommend a god soaking in Slip 2000 Carbon Killer for those wanting to treat their used cans for the first time and need to get them as clean as possible before the process.
Carbon Killer makes other products look stupid.