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Posted: 1/7/2012 5:03:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Don't go nuts just yet. Start small, just get 100 bullets primers cases. If you are only loading .45 right now, yeah, just look at the loads and pick a powder that you like. If you are planning on more calibers, then you can pick a powder that will work in both calibers.
I like hodgdon Titegroup for conservative loads. The powder goes a long way! If you want a bit more velocity and Flash, go for PowerPistol. Don't forget to take your time, load up one cartridge at a time, work up your loads, starting 10 percent down, and work up in .3-.5 increments. I'd only do up about 50 rounds, broke down into groups of 5. Go to the range, see how the feed, recoil, accuracy (Although, in a pistol, just about anything is accurate. YOu're more looking for feeding and pressure) |
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Posted: 1/7/2012 5:06:28 AM EDT
[#2]
To get your feet wet with this cartridge, a good plinking and target load to start with is 3.8 to 4.2 grains of Bullseye with a 200 grain LSWC bullet. Crimp to 0.470 inches diameter at the case mouth.
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Posted: 1/7/2012 5:41:59 AM EDT
[#3]
You are doing great
Dillon- great Lyman book one of the best (my favorite) 45-one of the simplest calibers to load I like winchester large pistol primers. Most outfits offer two different primers for large pistol , one regular,one for magnum Both would fit in 45acp but you would use one based upon load and powder type. for whatever reason in large pisstol size winchester only offers one primer,suitable for regular or magnum loads. it works and is one less thing to stockpile The old standby bullet that I have loaded most over the years for 45acp is a cast lead 200 swc (semi wad cutter) Many guys like the plated bullets. I use Bullseye powder for Bullseye loads (imagin that!) and for mid range plinking loads I find Hodgens Clays to be simple,clean and consistent. Some guns and some calibers respond to absolute full power loads that rival or beat what is available from the factories but 45acp in 1911 for various reasoins is not one to fool with the hot rod stuff . With care you can certainally approach the factory loads if you need the power for some reason but generally there is no point and many downsides to that path. Brass is easy. With the exception of a few oddball cases with small primers anything you find that is brass is good to go without worry about brand . Some calibers you will spend hours sorting brass for brand,conditition and various other qualities but 45acp lasts about forever Along with your info in the Lyman book you might also refer to the websights provided by many powder companys for info on loads |
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Posted: 1/7/2012 5:48:50 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I ordered my self a Dillon 550 with some extras set up in .45 ACP, (4"1911) and the Lyman 49th manual. I've read bit about reloading before i purchased and got my self into it. what components should i get? primers, bullets, powder, and brass (will also start saving my old brass now). do you just pick a random load in a book that you want to try out see how you like it? or is there a recommended list of components that you could recommend that i could pick up. In 45 ACP, primer choice is easy. Use LP, Large Pistol any brand. Use what is available locally. Powder, again what's available locally. W-231, TiteGroup, Unique and True Blue are all good choices. Bullets, some decisions here. Jacketed or lead bullets? Either way start with a 230 gr FMJ (full metal jacket) or 230 gr cast RN. (round nose) Cast bullets are always cheaper and all I use in 95% of my 45 ACP loads. Most people start with the FMJ, and that's a good plan. Read the front part of Lyman 49, it has step by step how to reload instructions and will explain the process. When you set up your 550, place 1 case in the press and run it all the way through the press. Continue this "one at a time" process until you are comfortable with the press before going progressive and operating every station. One thing you have to look out for when loading pistol rounds on a 550. It is possible to double charge a case. (Rifle rounds, the powder will overflow the case with 2 charges.) So you need to pay attention and advance the shellplate after every stroke of the handle. Best practice is to look down into the case and check powder height before setting a bullet on the case in station 3. If you do this, you will catch any double charged cases. When I stop the press to do something else, I always leave the ram at the top of it's travel. Then when I start up again, lower press handle, rotate shellplate, seat primer, seat bullet, pull handle, continue cycle. Once you have components in hand, find the load data for your bullet. 99% chance you will not have the exact brands of components listed in the data. This is why the "start" load is listed. (start load is the lowest powder charge listed) At this level like components can be substituted. Case brand, primer and bullet brand. Bullet weight and powder can never be substituted. Example, Lyman listed CCI300 and Rem 2 1/2 primers in data. Ok to start with Winchester LP (large pistol) or Federal 150. 
Welcome to the Reloading Forum and the blue koolaid club. |
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Posted: 1/7/2012 6:01:59 AM EDT
[#5]
do you just pick a random load in a book that you want to try out see how you like it?
No not really, but kinda. You first read the front half of your new Lyman manual. It will tell you all the procedures on how to handload safely. One of those procedures is, after you select a particular powder/bullet combo is to "Start Low and Work Up". Most load data has a "Start" load and a "Max" load. Start at start or a hair above, make a few rounds 5 or so, increase the charge a few tenths of a grain, make a few more etc. and keep working up looking for signs of accuracy and pressure. Never exceed Max loads. Some load data only lists one charge (Alliant). Anytime you run into published data that lists only one charge that is considered a "Max" charge and you should never start there. Reduce this by 10% for a "Start" charge and work it up. There is a ton of powders and bullets that work very well in a 1911 45. That said there are a couple of favorites, 231, Bullseye and WST are among the top three as far as powders go. If you are going to shoot lead bullets then the 200gr LSWC is hard to beat. If you are not ready for lead then the 230gr FMJ or JHP is another great choice. I have five 1911's and they all love 200gr Missouri Bullet LSWC powered by 4.9gr WST. For target and range loads with Jacketed bullets it's 230gr Zero Brand FMJ or JHP powered by 4.5gr WST. If you want to go full power for self defense loads or whatever 230gr XTP and 8.0gr of Ramshot Silhouette is a real barn burner, accurate too. Remember, never load any rounds based on forum data without verifying it through one or more publishes sources. |
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Posted: 1/7/2012 6:12:37 AM EDT
[#6]
well I haven't got the lyman book yet but I did read the ABC's of reloading 9'th edition. and some other older reloading book from the 60's from the library. I'll try loading one at a time like a single stage press just to get a hang of everything first too. lots of good info in this post so far thanks! I planned pistol to learn on as some one that reloads a lot locally suggested that. but i plan on adding more calibers once i get more funds for sure .223 and 9mm. i already have an ultrasonic cleaner what would be good a good solution could i just use some purple power and lemon shine?
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Posted: 1/7/2012 7:25:31 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
well I haven't got the lyman book yet but I did read the ABC's of reloading 9'th edition. and some other older reloading book from the 60's from the library. I'll try loading one at a time like a single stage press just to get a hang of everything first too. lots of good info in this post so far thanks! I planned pistol to learn on as some one that reloads a lot locally suggested that. but i plan on adding more calibers once i get more funds for sure .223 and 9mm. i already have an ultrasonic cleaner what would be good a good solution could i just use some purple power and lemon shine? Sounds like you will get off to a good start. Don't hear much about ultra sonic cleaning, Wet Tumbling is my process. But use what you have. I have read that Lemishine works well. 
Get it a wally world in the dish washing soap section. |
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