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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 2/6/2006 10:38:18 PM EDT
after shoooting a round the slide locks up and i cant eject the spent cartridge...i have to pull back on it pretty hard for it to release shotgun is basically brand new...any ideas what is wrong with it?or is this normal for break in?
Link Posted: 2/6/2006 11:12:16 PM EDT
mine did this as well.. i think its just part of the brake in process.. if your worryed about it go grab your dremal and some polishing compound and get to work on the edge of the chamber...

Jess
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 1:41:28 AM EDT
Bill2k,

There shouldn't be a break-in process with a Remington 870! Assuming the weapons is clean and properly lubricated, it should be pretty easy to rack the forearm after each shot. I dont' know what would cause the problem you are experiencing, again, assuming a clean and lubricated weapon, but it is definetly something you need need to have checked out.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 1:58:04 AM EDT
An 870 should be flawless and smooth as silk. There is something really wrong.

1. Are we using correct ammunition? (no forcing a 3" shell into a 2-3/4" chamber?)

2. Is the ammo good quality? (some steel head ammo will swell in the chamber causing difficult extraction)

3. Is the chamber area honed and polished ? (some new guns have pretty shoddy QC) a "groovy" chamber will cause the same effect as #2.

4. Is the chamber area clean and not full of cosmoline or packing grease?
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 2:12:21 AM EDT
Contact Remington.

Regards,
Mild Bill
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 2:41:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/7/2006 2:42:52 AM EDT by Anarx]
hey guys this isent as uncommen as it may seem.. me as well as a coupple of friends of mine have ran into this problem..

i hit mine with some polish and put a few hundrad rounds through it and it was gone...

it just seems like its one of the problems with getting the budget 870.. the QC isent all that great and sometimes theres a small burr or something thats causing a round to stick..

Jess

ETA: one solution might be to take a live round and cut the load out.. use the base plate to put some mild lapping compound on it and run it in the chamber like a valve..
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 4:16:02 AM EDT
I know some barrel makers will use a hand drill with a buffing wheel or emery cloth to hone the chambers.

Remington barrels in the past ten years or so have steadily declined in quality compared to ones made
25 years ago in the old green boxes with white lettering or - ones from the 1960s in white boxes with
red lettering.

The old ones, were nice and polished and honed - - and straight, albeit their field and trap bbls naturally shoot a bit low.

The new ones are a joke. You look thought them and they're DULL - like they're still dirty because they've never been honed properly - if at all. Some even have the mandrell marks looking like four bright cross-haris amidst a dull, carmel colored bore. Run your finger inside the chamber and you can sometimes feel the ridges and grooves that haven't been honed out smooth.

Shoot them and clean them and clean... and clean... and they still seem to come out slightly dirty because the surface roughness acts like Thomas, English Muffins "nooks and crannies" that hold in the butter (or dirt, plastic and lead in the barrel's case)

Pick up an old fixed choke skeet barrel, field barrel slug barrel - or if you can FIND one - trap barrel
and the insides are mirror smooth and bright. I've shot trap with them for 25 years and when I clean them after a 300 bird day, all it takes is one solvent soaked patch around a bore brush, two or
three swipes, one dry patch and - - DONE. Mirror bright again. Spend about 60 seconds total cleaning the barrel and 5-10 minutes on the action parts.

The new ones - forget it. You can sit there all day and wear out five bore brushes, a bag of patches plus a cut up T-shirt and a quart of Hoppes #9 and you will STILL have dark gray patches at the end of the day.
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