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Posted: 8/2/2006 6:06:01 PM EDT

ok folks, it's time play "spend someone else's money" !!!

i've graduated from ar15 building foolishness school (with high marks i might add), and now turn my attention to the 10/22.  whereas i can identify various brands of ar15 freefloat forearms at 100 yards, and can tell the difference between the sound of brass cased 5.56 vs steel cased 5.56 hitting the receiver deflector on the ar15, i'm pretty much starting at ZERO with the 10/22.  so i turn to you folks...

the idea here is not break my piggy bank, the idea is a high value, high accuracy per dollar 10/22 that i can use (non-competitively) at the range, ranch, and to bring others into the world of firearms.

so far i've sort of worked out the following...
instead of buying a 10/22 and then chucking stuff aside, i've preliminarily decided to build one from the bottom up. to that end, i need some details filled in.  

receiever: ?  (Volquartsen seems to be the cream of the crop, but pricey. what about MOA? SS or alum is preferred?)
trigger assy:  ?
barrel: Green Mountain or similar
bolt:  ?
stock: Hogue, or Bell and Carlson Anschutz style
glass: Mueller APV 4.5–14×40 AO or similar
mount: ?

what other bits and pieces do i need?

thanks
ar-jedi

ref material for the next guy to try this:
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143017
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=6
rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144357

Link Posted: 8/3/2006 11:51:34 AM EDT
[#1]

You must have a huge piggy bank
Link Posted: 8/3/2006 4:16:05 PM EDT
[#2]
I was looking for more people to respond because I am after some of the same info as you.  I've come across this barrel/mount combo that may be of interest to you.

GM and Vol
Link Posted: 8/3/2006 4:43:41 PM EDT
[#3]
I have a very highly accurate 10/22.

it's Bone stock with a 3-9x30 scope on top.

Alot of .22 accuracy depends on the ammo.  Most .22 ammo is good to fair.

Perhaps you want to consider a different platform - like the .17HMR - this will be the future of the rimfire rifle as far as accuracy and performace is concerned.
Link Posted: 8/5/2006 8:03:33 PM EDT
[#4]

i asked what i thought was a decent question, with enough information wrapped around it so folks can give a reasonable asnwer.

one guy says i must have too much coin.
another guy says he's looking for the same info.
and the next guy says i should get a .17 even though my title says i want a 10/22.

where are all of the 10/22 experts/gurus/interested parties?

regards,
ar-jedi

Link Posted: 8/5/2006 10:57:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Well I can say I was very much in the same boat a few months ago...
spent some serious time pouring over threads here and RFC
(excellent classifieds there! )

and so far I've ended up with a B&C Anshutz stock, Boyd's Special .920 18" bbl.
Mueller AVP scope, bolt release mod, and a polished FCG.

It took a while to break in, but it is spooky acurate even with bulk ammo.
More of a bench gun, but still fine for me in the woods
(not so good for the local sage rat population though...)

I myself can't justify a new receiver or trig. housing...
My level of shooting just doesn't require them.

Next on the list:
WK buffer and maybe a VQ hammer
custom mag release
mini rail mount for QD bipod
and maybe a little sumpin' to quiet her down a bit...
Link Posted: 8/7/2006 9:35:59 AM EDT
[#6]
I’ve owned my little 10/22 Carbine since 1998 and over the years I've modified it to include many MILD aftermarket parts.  These include HiViz sights, a Power Custom Hammer, extended mag release, bolt release, buffer, etc.  The addiction is almost as bad as black rifle disease.  Invariably someone in love with the 10/22 always envisions a plan to build the ultimate edition.  I am no exception.

I recently purchased a brand new 10/22T so that my wife and I could both shoot at the same time.  It’s a bonding experience and she likes how much “nicer” the Target model looks over the carbine.  A 10/22T is plenty accurate for her, since it’s more about the quality time rather than tack driving.  With her getting the 10/22T that leaves me with a slightly modified 10/22 Carbine.  NO GOOD!  I need to have one that has a bull barrel too!  It wouldn’t be fair otherwise.  :: grin ::

After reading that article “How a Barrel is Made” I’m personally now sold on a Cut Rifled Barrel for my future build.  I would choose a barrel made by Krieger.  Why?    Because Krieger once made a barrel that held a 5 shot group at 1.564" at 1000 yards.  With a Krieger, the ammo and the shooter are the problem not the barrel.

For the trigger group I wouldn’t be cheap like I did with my carbine and simply replace the hammer and sear.  Nor would I pay a gunsmith to trick out a factory one either.  I would buy the Tony Kidd group and be done with it.  Even naysayers of aftermarket trigger groups haven’t shit on the Kidd package (at least I’ve never heard any moron say something negative)

For the receiver I would pick the Magnum Research because it’s completely machined with an integral Weaver base.  When building an Uber Rifle I wouldn’t mess with finding a good scope base and relying on those 4 little screws to keep it secure.  If I remember I’ll post pictures the 3 scope bases I have.  Two of them are Ruger Factory bases and the other is just a Weaver T-09.  Having the base as part of the receiver leaves me with a nice warm fuzzy feeling.



Barrel:  Krieger
Receiver:  Magnum Research
Bolt:  Volquartsen
Stock:  McMillan
Magazine: Stock
Glass:  Still looking


Link Posted: 8/7/2006 12:55:22 PM EDT
[#7]
if i was to build another 10/22 from scratch heres what i would do

plane jane 10/22 from sporting good store.
tactical solutions threaded bbl
power custom or vq base
kidd trigger with reciever pins
worked bolt from randy @ cpc
recoil buffer and stock screw from weaponkraft
anschutz stock
glass imo either simmons 44mag for cheap or nightforce for money no object.
and of course a suppressor from either gemtech outbackII or aac's prodigy
Link Posted: 8/7/2006 3:12:34 PM EDT
[#8]
The cheapest 10/22 you can find.  USE the stock that came with it, open up the barrel channel for the .920 barrel.  Bed the barrel in marine tex with the action freefloated.  Volquartsen or Power Custom action parts, i.e., bolt release, mag release, trigger/hammer stuff.  A Green Mountain barrel of your choice.  A Weaver or similar base, Leupold PRW/QRW rings, and a Mueller of your choice.  That ought to shoot under half an inch @ 50 with any good target ammo.

Rifle 100-150
Scope, base, and rings 200
Action parts 150
Barrel 100-150

My numbers might be high.  Good luck, but hey it will be cheaper than an AR :)
Link Posted: 8/7/2006 4:58:53 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
I’ve owned my little 10/22 Carbine since 1998 and over the years I've modified it to include many MILD aftermarket parts.  These include HiViz sights, a Power Custom Hammer, extended mag release, bolt release, buffer, etc.  The addiction is almost as bad as black rifle disease.  Invariably someone in love with the 10/22 always envisions a plan to build the ultimate edition.  I am no exception.

I recently purchased a brand new 10/22T so that my wife and I could both shoot at the same time.  It’s a bonding experience and she likes how much “nicer” the Target model looks over the carbine.  A 10/22T is plenty accurate for her, since it’s more about the quality time rather than tack driving.  With her getting the 10/22T that leaves me with a slightly modified 10/22 Carbine.  NO GOOD!  I need to have one that has a bull barrel too!  It wouldn’t be fair otherwise.  :: grin ::

After reading that article “How a Barrel is Made” I’m personally now sold on a Cut Rifled Barrel for my future build.  I would choose a barrel made by Krieger.  Why?    Because Krieger once made a barrel that held a 5 shot group at 1.564" at 1000 yards.  With a Krieger, the ammo and the shooter are the problem not the barrel.

For the trigger group I wouldn’t be cheap like I did with my carbine and simply replace the hammer and sear.  Nor would I pay a gunsmith to trick out a factory one either.  I would buy the Tony Kidd group and be done with it.  Even naysayers of aftermarket trigger groups haven’t shit on the Kidd package (at least I’ve never heard any moron say something negative)

For the receiver I would pick the Magnum Research because it’s completely machined with an integral Weaver base.  When building an Uber Rifle I wouldn’t mess with finding a good scope base and relying on those 4 little screws to keep it secure.  If I remember I’ll post pictures the 3 scope bases I have.  Two of them are Ruger Factory bases and the other is just a Weaver T-09.  Having the base as part of the receiver leaves me with a nice warm fuzzy feeling.

www.magnumresearch.com/products/receiver_only.jpg

Barrel:  Krieger
Receiver:  Magnum Research
Bolt:  Volquartsen
Stock:  McMillan
Magazine: Stock
Glass:  Still looking





MocoMan

is the  Magnum Research Receiver already drilled out in the back for the cleaning rod to go through.

it looks like it is.
Link Posted: 8/7/2006 5:11:47 PM EDT
[#10]
I'm just finished my third 10/22 build, so I'm no expert.  But, IMHO, I like the following:

Receiver:  Buy the cheapest 10/22 you can find. Replace the bolt handle with a VQ.  It's a big improvement . Not sure what the benefits are for the high $$$ aftermarket receivers. Beside, you get ALL the internal parts you need.  I like to strip the paint and then refinish the receiver and trigger group.  That's the fun part.

Trigger assembly:  I've done my own trigger work with good results. First time, I used all Skeeter parts with adjustable set screws. www.hawktecharms.com/ruger/10-22.htm I install my own set screws in the stock parts now.  If you don't want to mess with the trigger yourself, send it to  www.ttshooter.com/1022triggerwork.html

Barrel:  Best bang for the buck=GM, However, I've got 2 TacSols that I love. Weight is the BIG difference. You should be able to get .5 inch @50yds or better with either. You get into the big bucks when you start going for the sub .25 inch stuff.  Bought my GM here  
shootersdiscount.com/cart/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2

Stock:  No experience with B&C, but I do like the looks and feel of the Hogue, especially with the Harris bipod.  Stock looks great in Black or OD. Nice pics of stock w/bipod from Rimfirecentral.  




Glass:  Can't go wrong with Meuller ATV.  Silver ON SALE now www.muelleroptics.com/products/MAPV451440S.html

Mount: I like the Power Custom www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=482570
or www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=752380
with Leupold Rifleman Low rings www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=985615

Mag Release: B&C are cheap, look good and should work as well as any. www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=662086

Synthetic Bolt Buffer: be sure to get one.

That pretty much describes my latest project.  My others used TacSol barrels with Boyds laminated stocks.  Once you get a few 10/22's, you can mix and match, just like AR's.

Link Posted: 8/8/2006 5:27:24 AM EDT
[#11]
Most of the guys here have already given good advice so I'll echo some of it.

1.  Receiver:  go with stock, I don't see the need for a custom receiver.

2.  Barrel:  GM is best value but keep in mind GM has a Bentz chamber, which is tighter than factory.  Some Tac Sol barrels have chambers that are a bit more forgiving and will be therefore a bit more reliable.  I have a GM 16" fluted on mine but will probably get a Tac Sol for my next 10/22 build.



3.  Mount:  I used the Volquartsen Picatinny Rail ($50 from MidwayUSA) but as others have mentioned, PowerCustom makes a good one as well.  I liked the extended rail on the VQ (see above pic) because I wanted to put the HOLOsight as far forward as possible.

4.  Stock:  matter of personal preference, really.  The stock above is a Bell & Carlson classic -- I had to install a Blackhawk raised cheek pad to fix the cheek weld but it works very well.  Some on RFC have noted that the Hogue rubber stock is too "flexy" for serious target work but YMMV.  

I like my B&C because it has a nice rubber recoil pad, shaved at the top so it makes mounting the gun easier.  It also comes stock with Uncle Mike's sling studs pre-installed.  The sling is a cheapo Butler Creek that I got from Cabela's.

Justin
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 7:16:44 PM EDT
[#12]
If you're not dead set on the stock and barrel, watch Midway. Every so often you can get a .920 heavy barrel and stock combo for a couple of bills.

Link 1

Link 2

As far as building from scratch, you're probably better off just buying a stock rifle and having parts left over pricewise.

What to to do a stock 10/22:

1. Fix the trigger. Get a hammer, or a hammer/sear, or a complete trigger kit (mine was Volquartsen, and I got it in pieces. If I had it to do over, I'd get a kit). I'd also get the buffer pin for the back--it tends to beat up the receiver after awhile and the pin just falls out when you pull the stock off.

2. If you didn't get a kit, fix the bolt release so that it releases the bolt when you pull it back like every other firearm on the planet. This just requires a little grinding, but if you get a kit, you can just drop in a new part.

3. Throw away the damn barrel band and get a different stock. This may require a barrel too.

4. Your new barrel won't have a front sight, so get a real scope mount and glass of your choice (not the tip off that comes with the gun).

I remember reading advice from Reid Coffield at Brownell's about free floating the barrel. He said it doesn't work that well on the 10/22 because the receiver doesn't have enough surface area to mate well with the stock. He suggested bedding the barrel and letting the receiver float where it may. My Fajen stock has a pad at the front, and I've never done anything with it. It's accurate enough to pick off a 1" target at 25 yards offhand consistently if I do my part with cheap Federal value pack ammo.

As far as the build, it's as easy as an AR, with a whole lot less tools needed.

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