Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 9/5/2010 6:27:47 AM EST
I've only been reloading for a year or so, sorry if this has been covered.
I started with a Honady single stage kit, and have worked up some pretty good loads for my AR's. Next I plan on loads for .40S&W and .243. I've convince myself I won't get into a progressive press until I work up loads for .40 and .243 on my single stage that I'm happy with.
Anyway, here's my question: With a progessive press that has a case feeded, if you're pumping brass into it then resize/decap, prime, and start dropping powder, when do you messure and trim your brass? It seems to me (again, new guy) that some brands of brass grow quite a bit after resizing. Are you concerned about not trimming brass?
Link Posted: 9/5/2010 6:33:22 AM EST
Pistol brass doesn't stretch when you size it, so there's not much need for trimming it.
Link Posted: 9/5/2010 6:40:09 AM EST
What about progressive loading for .223 or .243? Do you just resize and prime everything on the progressive, then measure and trim, then go back to the press?
Link Posted: 9/5/2010 6:45:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/5/2010 6:46:10 AM EST by DoubleARon]
You could use the case feeder, and run all of them through the sizing/depriming station, then trim them all. Then, just take out the sizing die, and run the cases back through to prime, charge, and seat.
Link Posted: 9/5/2010 8:13:07 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/5/2010 8:16:31 AM EST by StealthyBlagga]
I load pistol and rifle ammo on my Dillon XL650. The press has 5 stations, with the case feeder bringing polished/lubed brass to Station 1.

For pistol ammo, I load in one pass:
1) Deprime and resize (Lee carbide sizing die)
2) Prime, flare case mount and dispense powder (Dillon powder die)
3) Powder Check (optional)
4) Seat bullet (Dillon seating die)
5) Crimp (Lee Factory Crimp die)

For rifle ammo, I load in two passes:
A1) Deprime (Lee universal depriming die)
A2) Empty
A3) Full length resize and trim (Dillon RapidTrim die)
A4) Empty
A5) Flare case mouth (Lee Universal Flaring die)

... then I tumble the brass to remove the lube and flash from the trim operation, swage the primer pockets if necessary, then:

B1) Deprime to remove any polishing media from the flash hole (Lee universal depriming die)
B2) Prime and dispense powder (Dillon powder die)
B3) Powder Check (optional)
B4) Seat bullet (RCBS seating die)
B5) Crimp (Lee Factory Crimp die)

After I build up a good supply of once fired reloaded brass, I am going to switch to an RCBS X-Die for sizing rifle brass, so I can reload it in one pass like pistol ammo (that's the theory anyway).

Link Posted: 9/5/2010 8:17:59 AM EST

Originally Posted By SuperFLY91:
What about progressive loading for .223 or .243? Do you just resize and prime everything on the progressive, then measure and trim, then go back to the press?

for .223 i think i deprime and trim on the press first and then once the brass is ready i put it in the auto feed hopper. from there the first down stroke is a fresh brass then the primer, then powder, then seat bullet, then crimp, then kicked out.

IIRC I dont have my notes with me right now.
Link Posted: 9/5/2010 12:13:31 PM EST

Originally Posted By SuperFLY91:
What about progressive loading for .223 or .243? Do you just resize and prime everything on the progressive, then measure and trim, then go back to the press?

Necked rifle cases take a two step process to handload. The first pass through the press is a case prep cycle and after that's completed many handloaders put up their prep'd brass for a later time when they actually reload it. The reloading cycle is a completely separate cycle using different dies and processes.

Here are my personal necked rifle reloading steps on my XL650 w/casefeeder for information. I also use a Dillon trimmer in my case prep process. There are other ways to do it, but this works well for me and my XL650 w/casefeeder. I check my brass twice during the brass prep process (after initial cleaning and then again after cleaning the lube off) and then again after I've completed reloading the rounds just to make sure I've caught any bad brass and/or rounds.

Brass Prep (using your case prep toolhead setup):

1. Inspect Brass
2. Tumble / Clean Brass - Lizard Litter Walnut & Turtle Wax car polish - 1 hr max
3. Lube Brass - Dillon Spray Lube not One-Shot
4. Install Case Prep Toolhead in XL650 - confirm adjustments

• Dillon Decapper / Resizer die in #1 - I resize and decap at this stage
• Dillon Trimmer in #4 - I have the die set to just touch the case but trim at the proper length
5. Drop Brass in Casefeeder and crank handle to Decap / Resize and Trim - if necessary
6. Tumble / Remove Lube - Lizard Litter Walnut - 10 minutes max
7. Inspect brass again and Dillon Case Gauge - Lot samples: 10% of total. If question, then gauge every case
8. Swage - only if needed
9. Store prep'd brass for reloading in future

Note that I neither chamfer, de-burr the case neck, nor clean the primer pockets.
You may decide to include these steps in your process. For me these processes are unnecessary. I don't do Bullseye shooting and never clean my primer pockets to achieve the accuracy I'm looking for and, the Dillon Super Swage does a great job at both removing the crimp and swaging a uniform primer pocket and, the Dillon trimmer leaves a smooth, 4° slanted, bur free edge and, I use boat tailed bullets so inside chamfering to aid in bullet seating has been unnecessary to achieve MOA accuracy.

Reloading (using your reloading toolhead setup):

1. Install Reloading Toolhead in XL650, fill powder measure, primer feed, and bullet bin - confirm adjustments
• Lee Universal Decapper die in #1 - to remove any media in flash hole
• Dillon Powder die in #2
• Dillon Powder Check die in #3
• Dillon Bullet Seater in #4
• Dillon FCD in #5
2. Drop Brass in Casefeeder and crank handle while adding bullets
3. Inspect finished rounds
4. Box and label

Go to range and make empty brass to start cycle once again.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 10:08:09 AM EST
Thanks Steve, great ino for a new guy. I guess I better get busy with my .40's and .243's so I can buy my Dillon guilt-free!
Top Top