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Posted: 4/17/2010 6:03:41 PM EDT
anyone have aluma hyde experience on lower receiver?? good/bad??
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 4:36:50 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
anyone have aluma hyde experience on lower receiver?? good/bad??

A couple of weeks ago I sprayed my complete AR w/ Aluma-Hyde II and it seems more durable than Krylon or similar types of paint. Granted, I haven't shot the carbine since it was painted, but I've handled and cycled the weapon plenty. It doesn't seem to peel or crack like regular paint and while it might not be as durable as say Duracoat, it is easier to apply. I'd guess it to be somewhere between Krylon and Duracoat. It takes about a week to cure fully and goes on fairly easy. I've read of some folks having issues w/ the nozzle clogging, but I had no issues. Here's link to a post I put up earlier today w/ some pics. The lighting makes it look a little lighter in color than it really is:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=493614
_______
mugdava

Link Posted: 4/17/2010 5:07:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
anyone have aluma hyde experience on lower receiver?? good/bad??


I've used AHII dozens of times and had decent results. I wouldn't say it's as good as DuraCoat, but it's pretty damn tough if applied correctly, and it's a whole lot cheaper and easier than messing with mixtures and airbrushes. Follow these instructions and you will have good results. Failure to thoroughly degrease the part, improper application (not using the dusting/heat gun technique shown in the Brownells instructional video), and spraying under the wrong conditions (humid or cool climates) will cause you to have less than good results.

It's best to apply the stuff on a dry/hot day. Lightly warm the can (hot water works) then shake the hell out of it. I usually shake it for 10-15 minutes. According to Brownells, cure time can be sped up to 3 days if you circulate warm air around the part. I just hang the finished part in a closet and forget about it for a few weeks. Some people claim you can lightly bake it for a few hours and it will fully cure, while others have said that it's not recommended and baking could compromise the finish. You could always experiment on a piece of scrap material to see if baking produces the desired results.

Warm the part prior to spraying, too. And as with any rattle can paint, be careful not to lay it on too thick. Also resist all urge to touch the part for at least 7-10 days. If you get a fingerprint on the uncured finish, it will become permanent. Just to be safe, I wouldn't re-assemble until a full 3 weeks.

Also check out AR15.com's Refinishing Forum. It's a treasure trove of valuable information. Good luck.

ETA: Be sure to buy some of those replacement nozzles from Brownells.
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 5:08:30 PM EDT
[#3]
I've used Aluma-Hyde II on a whole shot gun and also did some mags with it. Make sure you get the piece warmed up to the recommended temp (I put my stuff out in the sun) then shake the hell out of the can for like 5 minutes and then reshake it a couple of times while you are painting. Be careful not to put it on to thick .. you can always recoat after 24hours.

This is the shot gun before


And then after


I wouldn't hesitate to use it on a lower if one of mine needed to be refinished
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 5:21:27 PM EDT
[#4]
wow shotgun looks great...im following directions and letting cure, shaking hell out of can, trying out a lower that i won from raffle for the little girl with cancer...thought i would give it a whirl painting...first coat was put on hanging from a coat hanger...then lit propane heater and let it sit slightly on it for about 15min...then off...1hr later i coated again relocating coat hanger and flipping it over...light 5-10min with propane heater, and its just sitting again, i know patience is a virtue with it...

does anyone or has anyone sprayed like a krylon clear coat or anything over it as a protectant or sealant
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 5:28:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Another thing, if you don't like the results or would like a do-over, use Klean-Strip to remove Aluma-Hyde II  (as well as DuraCoat and many other finishes) without damaging the lower's anodizing. Let it soak for about 10 minutes then hit it with a nylon brush. It cleans up with water and dish washing detergent and doesn't leave an oily residue on the receiver.

Link Posted: 4/17/2010 5:29:12 PM EDT
[#6]
The shotgun is also clear coated with Aluma-Hyde II for extra protection
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 6:11:00 PM EDT
[#7]
thanks much guys...that shotgun looks great...i want to do a spare 870 i have in dark earth with black hardware...
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 6:38:18 PM EDT
[#8]
I've used it on AR's AK's 870's and several accesories. I holds up real well. You just have to be patient and let it cure for a couple weeks.
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 7:19:12 PM EDT
[#9]
alright...the patience begins..thanks folks...coat hanger started in front take down pin holes, sprayed...baked with propane heater 15min...sat 15...coat hanger in rear takedown repeat, then start over, front, then rear...left hanging in rear pin hole to cure for a few days...then will shoot some krylon clear coating...let that sit...think it will turn out pretty good...
Link Posted: 4/18/2010 6:46:14 PM EDT
[#10]
alrighty...she has been coated 4x, twice with a coat hanger hanging in front take down, and twice with coat hanger in rear take down...so as to spray the whole thing...then covered with krylon matte clear coat...coyote tan



i got a bit antsy with the paint...so i took an 870 i won at a either DU or NRA banquet...took it down, and it has been painted in dark earth...should look good with the black hardware...getting one of my fathers 870 wins tomorrow and going to do those parts in od green...i need one more 870 to do in coyote, so we'll have cool spectrum of colored guns
Link Posted: 4/18/2010 7:07:30 PM EDT
[#11]
That came out really nice ... looks lke a factory job
Link Posted: 4/19/2010 5:58:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
That came out really nice ... looks lke a factory job


thanks much, gonna let it sit for another day or two, just to make sure then we'll start assembling, i did the 870 in dark earth, it looks very good as well...will spray some clear coat on it this evening, and let it harden...going to do one of my fathers 870's in either od green or light gray...he just put a pistol grip on it, so im thinking maybe the light gray
Link Posted: 4/19/2010 7:36:13 PM EDT
[#13]
so far so good...just have to learn not to touch, lol...hardening nicely...dark earth on the shotgun is looking good, brought my fathers home to do in coyote tan, i need one more donor gun to do one in od green...i'll post some pics up
Link Posted: 4/20/2010 1:40:26 AM EDT
[#14]
That really looks good, you did a good job!
Link Posted: 4/20/2010 11:08:22 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
so far so good...just have to learn not to touch, lol...hardening nicely...dark earth on the shotgun is looking good, brought my fathers home to do in coyote tan, i need one more donor gun to do one in od green...i'll post some pics up


Can't wait to see the shotguns
Link Posted: 4/20/2010 7:10:46 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Quoted:
so far so good...just have to learn not to touch, lol...hardening nicely...dark earth on the shotgun is looking good, brought my fathers home to do in coyote tan, i need one more donor gun to do one in od green...i'll post some pics up


Can't wait to see the shotguns


well...i wanted to do a few to get some experience, just for my sake personally and i emailed a few buddies that would let me test run their 870's in different colors (3 dropped off 870's today)...mine is dark earth, my fathers is in coyote (like a numbnuts i grabbed his receiver and smudged thinking it was mine, so that part is start over as it was only painted yesterday)...state trooper bud wanted od green to match his glock, just sprayed his 2x this evening...i was partial to the coyote but that od green looks sick...i still have 2 others...one has a mossy oak stock and pump, the other just black...the mossy oak the color is for me to choose...im stumped...want to wait and see how the earth and od cure and maybe compare...fun project...waiting sucks because is am horrible at patience, lol...
Link Posted: 4/20/2010 7:16:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
anyone have aluma hyde experience on lower receiver?? good/bad??


I've used AHII dozens of times and had decent results. I wouldn't say it's as good as DuraCoat, but it's pretty damn tough if applied correctly, and it's a whole lot cheaper and easier than messing with mixtures and airbrushes. Follow these instructions and you will have good results. Failure to thoroughly degrease the part, improper application (not using the dusting/heat gun technique shown in the Brownells instructional video), and spraying under the wrong conditions (humid or cool climates) will cause you to have less than good results.

It's best to apply the stuff on a dry/hot day. Lightly warm the can (hot water works) then shake the hell out of it. I usually shake it for 10-15 minutes. According to Brownells, cure time can be sped up to 3 days if you circulate warm air around the part. I just hang the finished part in a closet and forget about it for a few weeks. Some people claim you can lightly bake it for a few hours and it will fully cure, while others have said that it's not recommended and baking could compromise the finish. You could always experiment on a piece of scrap material to see if baking produces the desired results.

Warm the part prior to spraying, too. And as with any rattle can paint, be careful not to lay it on too thick. Also resist all urge to touch the part for at least 7-10 days. If you get a fingerprint on the uncured finish, it will become permanent. Just to be safe, I wouldn't re-assemble until a full 3 weeks.

Also check out AR15.com's Refinishing Forum. It's a treasure trove of valuable information. Good luck.

ETA: Be sure to buy some of those replacement nozzles from Brownells.



All of the above.

Plus, if you are in only 80-90 degree weather and aren't storing the thing in very warm temps.   Expect full cure to be reached in like a week's time.   It takes a LONG time to cure.

You can cut that time down with low heat baking in the oven for a few hours.

I've done prepped magazines, barrels, stocks.   It sticks and wears really well.   Some of the items I've done roughly 8-10 years ago still look good.


I prefer to mask off any pin holes though.   The stuff can go on thick even with multiple light coats.  I keep the build up out of the critical tolerance areas.

Link Posted: 4/20/2010 7:36:11 PM EDT
[#18]
thanks mate, really just have to be good patient and wait...
Link Posted: 4/21/2010 5:40:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Some things I've done in Alum Hyde





I've also done a Stoeger M2000 completely in Coyote, but I can't find any pics at the moment
Link Posted: 4/24/2010 6:31:10 PM EDT
[#20]
here we go...flat dark earth and od green...pictures dont do justice...turned out badass







Link Posted: 4/24/2010 6:34:15 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
so far so good...just have to learn not to touch, lol...hardening nicely...dark earth on the shotgun is looking good, brought my fathers home to do in coyote tan, i need one more donor gun to do one in od green...i'll post some pics up


Can't wait to see the shotguns


kick ass they look great
Link Posted: 4/24/2010 7:28:06 PM EDT
[#22]
They came out really nice ... makes me want to get out the mossberg and do that coyote and black skeem on it. Nice job
Link Posted: 4/26/2010 4:53:22 AM EDT
[#23]
I've used it on all kinds of things.  My Mustang project is getting odds and ends done with it.



Link Posted: 4/27/2010 11:32:23 AM EDT
[#24]


Coyote AHII. It came out with a slight sheen.
Link Posted: 4/27/2010 5:04:56 PM EDT
[#25]
my fathers i just finished in coyote





Link Posted: 4/28/2010 2:54:11 AM EDT
[#26]
is Alumahyde compatible with Krylon? I was going to AH my savage today but I forgot to order some green and was thinking about just going to WM to get some Krylon
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 4:13:32 AM EDT
[#27]
I'd be afraid it would come out all gummy and wouldn't cure right. You could always test it on a piece of scrap material and see what happens.
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 4:19:47 AM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
I'd be afraid it would come out all gummy and wouldn't cure right. You could always test it on a piece of scrap material and see what happens.


thats what I was guessing as well thanks
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 5:22:30 AM EDT
[#29]


That looks really nice. Think I am going to have to break the Mossberg 500 and buy that coyote color for it.
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 10:18:18 AM EDT
[#30]
the coyote does look good, buddy that works for sabre defence wants to send me his personal to coyote up for him...
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 9:13:42 AM EDT
[#31]
here is the dark park gray...i love it....i am ordering the other 2 colors i do not have today





Link Posted: 4/29/2010 11:14:32 AM EDT
[#32]
how long is it supposed to feel tacky? did a surefire flashlight today to experiment.
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 12:17:52 PM EDT
[#33]
depending on temperature where you are letting it dry...here's a tip DONT TOUCH IT...LOL...i let stuff dry/cure in my garage...24hrs its usually dry to touch but it IS NOT cured and rough handling can cause it to smudge/smear then start the process over...the Gray Parkerizing finish i did actually dried faster than all of the others...spray it and just leave it alone for at least 3-4 days...in a warmer air environment (like garage) it can cure faster...but my advice is spray it and let it be...a week is a good time measure...
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 3:17:35 PM EDT
[#34]
thanks, Its good to go, I let it sit out in the sun all afternoon so its not tacky anymore. Gonna let it cure for a couple of weeks but I think I created a monster
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 4:35:10 PM EDT
[#35]
I just did my m70ab2 with alumahyde 2.  No pics yet, but I am very happy with it.  I let it cure for 5 days, each day I went over it with a heat gun it was about 70 most of the week with pretty high humidity.  The only spot mine marred was on the grenade launching site because I moved it down to paint more before it was ready.  Very good stuff imo.
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 5:36:43 PM EDT
[#36]
hey guys add your pics too...love to see them...its just being patient, that was hard for me to get used to...it sucks...but results are good
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 10:10:08 PM EDT
[#37]
I have been following this Thread for a while and I am in the process of doing this to my AMD 65 - I will coat a few parts in OD and the rest in Black. The other project will be another AK & Muzzle Brake in Black. Have not started yet will wait till the weather gets and stays a bit warmer for some reason the weather is not all that warm currently. I will just do some prep work and than will get to work. Glad to get some pointers on what to do and what not to. Purchased a pack of cleaning nozzles and a pack of replacement nozzles just in case. So once I will get it done I will post some picks. Also the Brownells Video was very helpful.

Link Posted: 4/30/2010 5:14:52 AM EDT
[#38]
i just ordered a nozzle pack yesterday along with the silver or stainless steel color...going to give that one a whirl on my HK slide...when the nozzles clog it is immediate
Link Posted: 4/30/2010 5:21:50 PM EDT
[#39]
The cleaning nozzles are worthwhile, but imo the replacement spray nozzle sucked.  I only used one however, so this could have just been a bad nozzle.  After it sucked so bad I went back to using the original nozzle.
Link Posted: 4/30/2010 6:19:35 PM EDT
[#40]
i just ordered replacements...await those...next will patterns
Link Posted: 4/30/2010 6:37:37 PM EDT
[#41]
flat dark earth and camo stock...looks great



Link Posted: 4/30/2010 8:52:42 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
i just ordered replacements...await those...next will patterns


have you used the clear coat I was wondering if I could just use this on a new Lower that is still stripped to just make it look nicer and perhaps also protect at the same time. Any input on this would be appreciated

thanks
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 6:23:51 AM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
Quoted:
i just ordered replacements...await those...next will patterns


have you used the clear coat I was wondering if I could just use this on a new Lower that is still stripped to just make it look nicer and perhaps also protect at the same time. Any input on this would be appreciated

thanks


I have used the glossy and flat  clear coat .. works really good. My shotgun back on page one is glossy clear coated ... gun was for my sister and she wanted it "shiny"
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 6:37:38 AM EDT
[#44]
i have not used it, i have only used the krylon brand matte clear...i just had the alumahyde brand come in...so i will be giving it a whirl as well
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 6:53:41 AM EDT
[#45]
anybody got any camo pics using AH2? or pics with the earth brown or desert tan?
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 3:01:54 PM EDT
[#46]


Link Posted: 5/4/2010 7:42:49 PM EDT
[#47]
like the spikes lower looks good sprayed...i just sprayed my top hk slide usp40 should look badass when im done
Link Posted: 5/6/2010 10:41:37 AM EDT
[#48]
hanging on a coat hanger baking in the heat of my truck while at work...figured a good way to try and help cure paint
Link Posted: 5/6/2010 2:40:16 PM EDT
[#49]
How long do you guys wait between coats? I generally wait a week, having the item in a home at a constant 70 degrees. I have a 1911 frame I did sunday and was thinking about recoating it today. Is that a no or a go?
Link Posted: 5/6/2010 6:24:19 PM EDT
[#50]
the longer you wait the better...
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