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Posted: 4/11/2004 2:59:04 PM EDT
[#1]
run forrest run!
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Posted: 4/22/2004 2:50:20 PM EDT
[#2]
I have been using that stuff for a while and have not had any probs. I am going to shoot the rest.
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Posted: 4/24/2004 1:45:18 PM EDT
[#3]
Same here. |
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Posted: 5/11/2004 6:05:58 PM EDT
[#4]
I fired some cheap Korean ammo with the headstamp PS 74 through my Remington 721 earlier this year. Sixty rounds with no problems.
Looks like CMP has a good deal on M2 ball ammo though. I might have to get that stuff from now on, when I get my Garand at least. |
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Posted: 6/14/2004 5:51:15 PM EDT
[#5]
I do not know if this is so, but I read somewhere that the lot starting with PS had problems, but the KA stuff did not. YMMV etc etc and so on.
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Posted: 7/22/2004 2:04:06 PM EDT
[#6]
Someone at Battlerifles has been working on a list of lot #s. It is based on reports from various members.
Chard |
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Posted: 8/3/2004 11:43:00 AM EDT
[#7]
Yesterday I was shooting my M1 and was saying to myself how I need to get more ammo. I have 2 boxes of 250 rounds linked per box Korean with no lot numbers on the box .The head stamp is 30-06 88. I guess I will not buy anymore Korean ammo. I will delink rest of ammo and do a hard visual before shooting and then do a good visual on rounds fired.
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Posted: 8/3/2004 11:47:37 AM EDT
[#8]
The Garand Collectors Association has a specific warning in their last issue against using the Korean 30-06 as many members reported case head failures. They even had a couple of pics to illustrate.
Dawg |
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Posted: 8/3/2004 12:00:59 PM EDT
[#9]
Is the Korean ammo okay to use in a bolt-action 30-06?
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Posted: 8/3/2004 1:29:54 PM EDT
[#10]
Yes, I've used it in my custom heavy barreled mauser with sub MOA accuracy. No problems occured for me. |
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Posted: 8/10/2004 3:28:09 PM EDT
[#11]
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd/product.asp?dept%5Fid=20221&sku=AMM%2D689&imgid=&mscssid=F4G1P1V7JP569ME03W1P50T20LUF31C9
Is this stuff the Korean ammo you guys are talking about? It's lot number PS-2-152 if that helps. I'm still looking for decent ammo for my garand, which BTW was ordered from the CMP last Wednsday. Ben |
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Posted: 8/12/2004 10:14:36 AM EDT
[#12]
PS 2-152 is the bad lot that has kaboomed some M1's. Avoid it like the plague. Most of the other one's are OK. KA is good stuff too, but it's corrosive.
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Posted: 8/12/2004 5:57:00 PM EDT
[#13]
Actually, not all of it is. Buying it on the stripper clips almost guarantees that it'll be corrosive, but buying it in cans in boxes USUALLY means its ok. |
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Posted: 8/12/2004 6:01:58 PM EDT
[#14]
Famous last words... 
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Posted: 8/16/2004 7:32:51 AM EDT
[#15]
You've seen some KA that is not corrosive? All the KA I've fired has been corrosive. Have never heard of non-corrosive KA. If so, what are the lot #'s? |
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Posted: 8/25/2004 2:35:41 PM EDT
[#16]
Can the problem be visually identified? I have 2 boxes of 3006 marked PS 75. I have checked each round I bought and have found no cracks, or anything that would suggest anything other than good Garand ammo.
Ben |
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Posted: 9/1/2004 5:03:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Caution when ordering from The Sportman's Guide. Shame on me, I ordered 30-06 advertised as "non-corrosive". The stuff they sent has a K A headstamp and is clearly corrosive. I have had no response to the two emails I sent them regarding their "Satisfaction is 100% guaranteed". They have not reponded but they appeared to have had the time to change their on line advertising.
 These are just the facts, draw your own conclusions. 
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Posted: 9/3/2004 5:06:00 AM EDT
[#18]
I fired about 400 rounds of KA-73 through my M1 and had no problems. It is mildly corrosive though. That shouldn't be a problem if you clean your bore with Windex as soon as you get home from shooting. I ordered 960 rounds of the CMP Lake City Arsenal .30/06 and it shoots very well and is non-corrosive. It is dated 1969.
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Posted: 9/7/2004 7:10:33 AM EDT
[#19]
Take note gentlemen, I had the same problem this weekend with Chilean surplus. I took my recently purchased Poly M14 to my local smith to check functionality and he ran some Chilean surplus ammo he had on the shelf through it and.....kablooey. Blew apart the magazine. Thankfully, no damage to the rifle. I will try and post some pics of the exploded case and mag this evening.
JB 
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Posted: 9/7/2004 2:16:53 PM EDT
[#20]
I am new to the forum and would appreciate further information on Korean ammo. I bought a can of 380 rounds already loaded into clips and a 400-rd can of separately boxed ammo. I believe that the headstamp on the boxed ammo is KA-75, which has been mentioned as possibly bad ammo. It looks like the ammo loaded into clips is KA-73. What would you advise for someone who does not want to blow up his recently-acquired Garand? Inspect all the ammo? If so, what do I look for? Cracks in the shell casing?
Much obliged. |
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Posted: 9/9/2004 12:19:38 PM EDT
[#21]
The clip loaded ammo should be KA headstamp. Nothing wrong with it except it's corrosive so clean accordingly. In other words, use hot, soapy water, boiling water or Windex on your barrel, oprod, bolt face, etc. Then clean regularly. The PS 75 ammo in the 20rd boxes could be bad depending on the lot #. You need to look at the lot number and tell us what it is. If it is PS 2-152, you'll probably have a kaboom. This is the bad lot. Have seen some reports about other lots, but mostly with that one. Check out battlerifles.com or CSP for more info. battlerifles CSP |
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Posted: 9/10/2004 10:37:13 AM EDT
[#22]
Thanks very much. I will look at the lot #'s per your suggestion. From now on, I think I'll avoid the Korean stuff. Any suggestions on what to buy in the future besides what's available from the CMP? I can't find any of the Danish surplus that others have recommended.
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Posted: 9/23/2004 6:05:23 PM EDT
[#23]
Supposedly, the Yugo ammo is pretty good when you can find it. Not sure the headstamp or other markings. Should be Cyrillic looking letters on the box if you find it. Surplus M2 is getting hard to find unless you get Korean fodder or CMP LC M2. I reload my own usually and shoot the KA and PS I have already. Also have some Danish but I don't shoot it too much as it's getting impossible to find like you said. Talon puts out some made from recovered components, but I've heard its not very accurate. Too expensive too.
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Posted: 10/4/2004 7:16:59 AM EDT
[#24]
Is it just a certain lot number of the Korean M2 that is bad? or is it all suspect? The local shop has a good deal on cases of the stuff, lot number is something like PS - 2 - 198 but I wont shoot it out of my WWII vintage M1 if there is any doubt. I like to get a good deal on ammo but not at the expence of my M1 or worse.
Thanks for any info |
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Posted: 10/5/2004 5:55:57 AM EDT
[#25]
The bad lot of Korean is PS-2-152
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Posted: 10/17/2004 5:10:52 AM EDT
[#26]
I've been shooting the Korean surplus .30-'06 ammo for about a year now in my '03 Springfield. I have not had a single problem at all, although it is very corrosive. I have a friend that is also using this ammo in a CMP Garand and he has had a few cases get stuck and not extract from the chamber. I mean stuck, had to get them out with a rod through the barrel. I think this might be a headspace issue with the rifle though.
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Posted: 12/22/2004 1:14:54 PM EDT
[#27]
solved the KA ammo problem. pull the bullets, weigh the powder charge, punch the primers, clean it, swage the primer pockets. re-assemble in reverse order with #34 cci primers. brass is good and consistant. shoots 1" with my grand old grand. haven't shot a factory round in yearshippie.gif
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Posted: 2/2/2005 1:53:53 PM EDT
[#28]
i have a box of ps-2-162 with no problems. I also bought a case of cmp ammo so i'm just using whats left of the korean and sticking to the cmp stuff.
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Posted: 2/28/2005 11:11:31 AM EDT
[#29]
Typically not a problem to shoot it in bolt actions, it is the semi autos like the Garand that have probelms with cases splitting. |
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Posted: 2/28/2005 11:34:58 AM EDT
[#30]
I have some KA 72 ammo that use to stick in my bolt action. I mean you have to pull with all your power just to get bolt backed out. The brass is sticky, almost feels like a wax on the brass. Now I use a baby wipe and clean the rounds off before heading to the range. No split brass found. |
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Posted: 2/28/2005 12:23:26 PM EDT
[#31]
From my limited understanding of rifle actions, the fact that there is still pressure in the cartridge when the bolt unlocks to extract is the culprit in the case splitting. In you Springfields and other botl guns, the pressure is completely gone by the time the round is extracted. However, it sounds like the casings have brass that is too thin or soft and they are expanding too much from the pressure which makes it hard to extract.
I got to shoot a Garand yesterday and the guy was using Korean ammo. He had one failure to extract and I had a misfire which was scary as it was the second round I have ever fired from a Garand, the previous round having been the first!  Another interesting note was that the commerical Winchester ammo he had shot 2" to the left of the Korean stuff, but the same elevation. The rifle had been his Uncle's and his uncle had gotten from CMP in the 60's. |
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Posted: 3/5/2005 2:53:02 PM EDT
[#32]
I just bought a couple boxes of Korean M2 Ball, lot PS 2-177. So far from what I've read, only the 2-152 lot had problems. Does anyone have anything else to add before I start feeding my Garand this stuff?
By the way, as I understand it only the KA headstamp stuff is corrosive, and the PS stuff is NON-CORROSIVE. Am I correct? |
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Posted: 3/6/2005 12:15:11 PM EDT
[#33]
PS= non-corrosive
KA=corrosive |
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Posted: 3/11/2005 4:54:56 PM EDT
[#34]
You have Yugoslavian boxer primer non-corrosive ammo! GOOD stuff, no worries about it! |
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Posted: 3/15/2005 3:21:56 PM EDT
[#35]
Wish i found this thread earlier.... Here is wat happened to me when i used it. It was the first round of the day, and would have spoiled my fun had i not had my AR.
 The lower tooling marks around the casing are from me trying to pull it out. I will never use it again, so now I'm just going to get a new barrel. |
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Posted: 3/15/2005 3:52:02 PM EDT
[#36]
Nitewolf, is that a LIVE round stuck like that???
If it isn't you could just use a cleaning rod to push the casing out from the muzzle end. If it is, I highly recommend you geta gunsmith to fix that! |
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Posted: 3/17/2005 5:57:15 PM EDT
[#37]
No it's not live, the case exploded in the chamber. Jacked-up my cleaning rod trying to get it out, so I think the case n chamber r 1 now. Ghey! Not too big of a deal, just have to get a new barrel.
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Posted: 4/9/2005 7:57:39 AM EDT
[#38]
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Posted: 4/11/2005 11:29:53 AM EDT
[#39]
I shot some PS-2-088 the other day. I will not shoot it in a Garand anymore. It was very inconsistent in power and accuracy. Ejection was all over the place from 1 to 5 o'clock. I only shot 16 rounds but there were 2 rounds in particular that felt way over loaded. Some barely cycled the action watch out for this lot.
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Posted: 4/13/2005 2:40:17 AM EDT
[#40]
Good link I bought a box the other day lot was PS 2-105. to shoot in Remington 30/06 Dude told me not corrosive liar. Says he only has one set of corrosive ammo in 7.62X 51. Right I did point out the Hungarian 7.62X 54 that was plus others he swears no way. Maybe I should say okay let me shoot it thru one of your guns and you don't clean it and then tell me if it is not corrosive. Sorry for the rant or Hijack some gun shops don't have no respect or must think another idiot with guns.  Again good link on the Korean ammo always thought their quality control was crap back in the 1970's when I was their in the 2nd Division. |
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Posted: 4/13/2005 11:54:36 AM EDT
[#41]
I got some "non-corrosive" from Turners. I cleaned and lubed it thoroughly (or so I thought). Checked it a week later and the barrel had a very light coating of rust starting. Holy moly. Hit it with the Sweets and then into the kitchen sink for an intensive battle with hot soapy water. And an interesting discussion with Ma Danby when she got home and saw what was happening in her kitchen.
I'm just going to treat it all as corrosive and give it the intensive treatment. Finished all but one clip from that purchase of bandoliers. The sealed can will stay that way as back-up SHTF supplies. The only "BAD" 30-06 surplus I ever had was allegedly Swedish but may in fact be Danish. Got it in the 80's when my supplies of US were drying up the local store was moving and clearing. 20 round grey boxes marked OJP 1961 20 7.62mm S-PATRONEN / GM-1 . The problem was the necks split while feeding and the cartridges broke apart jamming things up. Found another that if I pushed the bullet sideways while holding the cartridge the neck split. What's with that? the necks work hardened in manufacturing and loading? |
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Posted: 4/13/2005 6:01:03 PM EDT
[#42]
Noname's 1st Rule Of Ammo...
-----If it comes from Asia, Europe, Africa, UK, and/or everything south of San Diego treat it as corrosive regardless of what "they" tell you! |
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Posted: 4/21/2005 10:38:23 AM EDT
[#43]
My club bought a case of korean surplus on the clips in bandoliers for our cmp matches. First half of the box was no problem, but the bottom half we started running into problems. Bullets not seated/crimiped/ coming loose from the case, CHUNKS of oily cardboard wedged between the rounds in the clip. Lucky me, I was the first one with a bad bandolier. Just happy I noticed before I slapped it in the rifle (rapid fire stage). It's part of the reason I decided to buy an AR for this season, good ammo isn't an arm and a leg like 30-06. Well, that and some a-hole kept jacking the sights all the way out to the right on the rifle I always used. I'll see if I can get the lot numbers from our director when I go again.
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Posted: 5/24/2005 8:28:48 PM EDT
[#44]
I haven't had any trouble with the Korean I've shot and I will continue to use it. Whatabout Wolf .308?
Ben |
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