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Posted: 10/24/2010 8:08:12 PM EDT
I've been wanting to try out glass bedding.  I figured I could try it out on my Stevens 200 in 22-250.  If I can do it with that I'd do it on some other rifles that are wood.  My question is should you bed a plastic stocked rifle?  If so, is there a product that would work better on plastic vs. wood stocks?  Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 9:51:39 PM EDT
[#1]
Acra-Glass does NOT stick well to plastic or synthetic materials.
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 11:37:26 AM EDT
[#2]
As above, epoxies don't adhere to some of the fiber reinforced plastics as used in guns and stocks.

One way around this is to give the bedding compound a way to "lock" itself to the stock.  This is used on both plastic and wood to increase strength and adhesion.
Simply roughen and gouge up the areas the epoxy is to be used on and make holes and undercut areas.  This allows the compound to fill these areas and form mechanical "locks" so the compound can't come free.
In wood or plastic the rougher the area, the better the epoxy adheres and the stronger it is.
This is one time in gun work where smoothness and neatness is NOT desired. The rougher the better.

Drill and cut a series of shallow holes and slots in the area, then undercut these areas with a Dremel bit or wood chisels.
When you apply the bedding compound, first pack these areas with the mix.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 1:27:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for your responses!
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 3:32:30 AM EDT
[#4]
There is no reason to Glass Bed a composite stock. Glass Bedding is for wood stocks to prevent swelling and to maintain a free float barrel.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 3:58:06 AM EDT
[#5]
No.  You need to get something else.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 5:38:10 AM EDT
[#6]
I have used an epoxy intended for joining plastics to bed the action of a Remington 700  in a synthetic to good effect. The product is called "Plastic Wleder" and is manufactured by Devcon. I comes in a two part tube and is intended for use in a cartridge gun with specific mixer nozzles. McMaster stocks these.

I did rough up the area around the recoil lug and action screws with a dremil tool and a very coarse carbide burr.

This particular light barrel rifle had considerable play around the recoil lug and the rear of the action and would not group more than a few rounds before a shift in POI. Bedding the action and floating the barrel resulted in very consistent  groups. Not a tack driver, but a fine hunting rifle indeed.

YMMV
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