User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 2:02:52 PM EDT
YMMV |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 2:05:01 PM EDT
[#1]
Damn.
I guess I will be using my el cheapo Lee universal decapping die. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 2:06:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Damn. I guess I will be using my el cheapo Lee universal decapping die. I use the Lee .223 die - only after having my Hornady busticated 3X after maybe 30-50 cases each time. Yeah I know - slow learner. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 2:31:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Is that due to a thin primer cup or a heavy crimp?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 2:38:21 PM EDT
[#4]
Funny........because my LEE pin broke (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html ) on another brand of brass.
But......NO WHINING is allowed around my bench. So........I moved on. Not to mention that...........I already had a spare on hand. Because, I believe that $%&^ happens. 
Aloha, Mark PS............I use that LEE tool for only the most stubborn of primers. And, If/when I pierce through (like in your picture).........well, that brand of brass will probably be recycled w/o wasting more effort. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 2:57:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Is that due to a thin primer cup or a heavy crimp? I am thinking the crimp combined with the sealant, but I know they are some tough SOBs and are hell on pins - so now we know why. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:06:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Funny........because my LEE pin broke (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html ) on another brand of brass.
But......NO WHINING is allowed around my bench. So........I moved on. Not to mention that...........I already had a spare on hand. Because, I believe that $%&^ happens.
Aloha, Mark PS............I use that LEE tool for only the most stubborn of primers. And, If/when I pierce through (like in your picture).........well, that brand of brass will probably be recycled w/o wasting more effort. Normally, I'd agree with you. My issue was I had near 3K pieces of it, cleaned it with lemmie-shine (as it had lain on the ground at least 18-36 months) and tumbled the daylights out of it to get it clean. Even after all the nonsense, I discovered that 30% wouldn't fit a case gauge - but then again - neither would the factory rounds. Seems the rim of the cases are a bit too fat to allow the case to drop in . . . seriously me starting reloading and Prvi was a huge nightmare. To this day, I just buy processed brass - .223 is where I save the least money. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:20:55 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Funny........because my LEE pin broke (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html ) on another brand of brass.
But......NO WHINING is allowed around my bench. So........I moved on. Not to mention that...........I already had a spare on hand. Because, I believe that $%&^ happens.
Aloha, Mark PS............I use that LEE tool for only the most stubborn of primers. And, If/when I pierce through (like in your picture).........well, that brand of brass will probably be recycled w/o wasting more effort. Normally, I'd agree with you. My issue was I had near 3K pieces of it, cleaned it with lemmie-shine (as it had lain on the ground at least 18-36 months) and tumbled the daylights out of it to get it clean. Even after all the nonsense, I discovered that 30% wouldn't fit a case gauge - but then again - neither would the factory rounds. Seems the rim of the cases are a bit too fat to allow the case to drop in . . . seriously me starting reloading and Prvi was a huge nightmare. To this day, I just buy processed brass - .223 is where I save the least money. 3k.......that sucks. Aloha, Mark PS..........a lot of folks have mentioned that PPU brass was GTG. I'd give it another try............perhaps, the percentage of good vs. bad will improve. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:22:23 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Funny........because my LEE pin broke (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html ) on another brand of brass.
But......NO WHINING is allowed around my bench. So........I moved on. Not to mention that...........I already had a spare on hand. Because, I believe that $%&^ happens.
Aloha, Mark PS............I use that LEE tool for only the most stubborn of primers. And, If/when I pierce through (like in your picture).........well, that brand of brass will probably be recycled w/o wasting more effort. Normally, I'd agree with you. My issue was I had near 3K pieces of it, cleaned it with lemmie-shine (as it had lain on the ground at least 18-36 months) and tumbled the daylights out of it to get it clean. Even after all the nonsense, I discovered that 30% wouldn't fit a case gauge - but then again - neither would the factory rounds. Seems the rim of the cases are a bit too fat to allow the case to drop in . . . seriously me starting reloading and Prvi was a huge nightmare. To this day, I just buy processed brass - .223 is where I save the least money. you can fix those fat cases with a quick trim on the grinder wheel. It allows the case to drop in - it works great, do it all the time on my plinking brass. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:29:08 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Funny........because my LEE pin broke (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html ) on another brand of brass. But......NO WHINING is allowed around my bench. So........I moved on. Not to mention that...........I already had a spare on hand. Because, I believe that $%&^ happens. Aloha, Mark PS............I use that LEE tool for only the most stubborn of primers. And, If/when I pierce through (like in your picture).........well, that brand of brass will probably be recycled w/o wasting more effort. Normally, I'd agree with you. My issue was I had near 3K pieces of it, cleaned it with lemmie-shine (as it had lain on the ground at least 18-36 months) and tumbled the daylights out of it to get it clean. Even after all the nonsense, I discovered that 30% wouldn't fit a case gauge - but then again - neither would the factory rounds. Seems the rim of the cases are a bit too fat to allow the case to drop in . . . seriously me starting reloading and Prvi was a huge nightmare. To this day, I just buy processed brass - .223 is where I save the least money. 3k.......that sucks. Aloha, Mark PS..........a lot of folks have mentioned that PPU brass was GTG. I'd give it another try............perhaps, the percentage of good vs. bad will improve. My first thousand or so reloads were 5.56 PPU brass. I never had any of these sort of issues? Then again, I started out using Lee dies anyway... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:38:21 PM EDT
[#10]
This thread is timeloy for me. I just shot up a bunch of Prvi. I thnk this is great ammo, but based on this thread I'm going to just store the cases away somewhere and probably not use them. I chrono'd the M193 stuff byu the way and it can right att 3050 from my 16" LMT barrel, SD was around 18 for 7 rounds.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:55:24 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Funny........because my LEE pin broke (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html ) on another brand of brass.
But......NO WHINING is allowed around my bench. So........I moved on. Not to mention that...........I already had a spare on hand. Because, I believe that $%&^ happens.
Aloha, Mark PS............I use that LEE tool for only the most stubborn of primers. And, If/when I pierce through (like in your picture).........well, that brand of brass will probably be recycled w/o wasting more effort. Normally, I'd agree with you. My issue was I had near 3K pieces of it, cleaned it with lemmie-shine (as it had lain on the ground at least 18-36 months) and tumbled the daylights out of it to get it clean. Even after all the nonsense, I discovered that 30% wouldn't fit a case gauge - but then again - neither would the factory rounds. Seems the rim of the cases are a bit too fat to allow the case to drop in . . . seriously me starting reloading and Prvi was a huge nightmare. To this day, I just buy processed brass - .223 is where I save the least money. you can fix those fat cases with a quick trim on the grinder wheel. It allows the case to drop in - it works great, do it all the time on my plinking brass. After the struggle I had initially I am not in the mood to grind 4K on any wheel. It shoots good enough. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 3:56:34 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
This thread is timeloy for me. I just shot up a bunch of Prvi. I thnk this is great ammo, but based on this thread I'm going to just store the cases away somewhere and probably not use them. I chrono'd the M193 stuff byu the way and it can right att 3050 from my 16" LMT barrel, SD was around 18 for 7 rounds. Maybe yours will not be bad. 5.56 or. 223? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 4:31:13 PM EDT
[#13]
I've had many problems with PPU brass.
The .308 Win "match" I bought from them was sized improperly when originally loaded (very difficult to close the bolt on 3 different rifles), and resizing it the first time was a PITA. I had to use twice the normal amount of lube to get it size smoothly. The 5.56 (it was originally M855 from wideners) was a total bitch to deprime. I could have swore I was going to bust a decapping pin, but I lucked out. Also, swaging them was TIGHT. I was deswagging them and LC 09, and the LC was a breeze compared to the PPU. I actually avoid the PPU brass as much as possible. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 4:56:43 PM EDT
[#14]
I use a Lyman decapping die when I encounter military or crimped brass.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 7:13:29 PM EDT
[#15]
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer.
This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2011 7:59:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Look at it from the bright side, those primers aren't coming out by accident!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2011 5:39:39 AM EDT
[#17]
Man... I've decapped a buttload of the PPU and/or PRVI brass with that Red Super Glue primer sealant and have NEVER had an issue other than the primer not punching free of the brass on occasion.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2011 7:40:16 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. Are we talking all PPU cases or just the M193? I have some of the 69gr and 75gr match brass that I have saved and now I am wondering if it is going to be a PITA??? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2011 8:19:02 PM EDT
[#19]
I have reloaded a fair bit of that PPU brass (mine was '07). Them primers are stubborn for sure, not a preferred brass to use.
Maybe some brass is best, left at the range. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2011 8:40:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: This thread is timeloy for me. I just shot up a bunch of Prvi. I thnk this is great ammo, but based on this thread I'm going to just store the cases away somewhere and probably not use them. I chrono'd the M193 stuff byu the way and it can right att 3050 from my 16" LMT barrel, SD was around 18 for 7 rounds. If you want to offload that PPU brass, just let me know... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2011 8:41:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted: I have reloaded a fair bit of that PPU brass (mine was '07). Them primers are stubborn for sure, not a preferred brass to use. Maybe some brass is best, left at the range. You guys are killing me. Please, everyone having trouble with PPU brass... send to me, I will dispose of it properly...  seriously, if you want to be rid of it, IM me... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2011 4:13:21 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. Are we talking all PPU cases or just the M193? I have some of the 69gr and 75gr match brass that I have saved and now I am wondering if it is going to be a PITA??? These were M855 - just look for sealant and crimp - that should tell the tale. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2011 6:28:34 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. Are we talking all PPU cases or just the M193? I have some of the 69gr and 75gr match brass that I have saved and now I am wondering if it is going to be a PITA??? These were M855 - just look for sealant and crimp - that should tell the tale. So all of the .223 match brass doesn't have any issues? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2011 6:59:15 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Man... I've decapped a buttload of the PPU and/or PRVI brass with that Red Super Glue primer sealant and have NEVER had an issue other than the primer not punching free of the brass on occasion.
+1 using redding small base die |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2011 7:01:45 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Man... I've decapped a buttload of the PPU and/or PRVI brass with that Red Super Glue primer sealant and have NEVER had an issue other than the primer not punching free of the brass on occasion.
+1 using redding small base die I'm just using a Carbide Dillon resizing die.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2011 7:08:15 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. Are we talking all PPU cases or just the M193? I have some of the 69gr and 75gr match brass that I have saved and now I am wondering if it is going to be a PITA??? These were M855 - just look for sealant and crimp - that should tell the tale. So all of the .223 match brass doesn't have any issues? Probably not - still have sealant I am guessing, but no crimp. I may have some somewhere. best practice is to look it over. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2011 6:33:23 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. So you're telling me, I don't need to order a flash hole uniformer? It is already built into my decapping die?
I have a bunch of the primed privi brass I got from widners a couple years ago. I just started loading and shooting it. I hope it is not going to be a bitch. Brett |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2011 3:54:23 AM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. So you're telling me, I don't need to order a flash hole uniformer? It is already built into my decapping die?
I have a bunch of the primed privi brass I got from widners a couple years ago. I just started loading and shooting it. I hope it is not going to be a bitch. Brett It will be - seriously - save yourself and send it to me for proper disposal .
When I used the Lee dies - with a one-piece decapping rod, all was good. I broke one in 4K of brass; however, if you opt to use a Hornady or other die with a pin that can come out - good luck to you. The other option mentioned is a universal decap die - I have an RCBS one. That brass I posted is the only one in 4K cases that punched through the primer, so . . . . while I started out reloading and ran in a PITA batch of brass, I have a better understanding of what to expect and how to handle less than stellar brass. I'm sure you'll be fine. Also note my brass was the 5.56 variety, not the .223 type. I am guessing they were produced differently. I have some I can check, but haven't gotten to it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2011 6:45:38 AM EDT
[#29]
Privi definitely has some issues as far as depriming/reloading. But I think the key here is when the OP revealed the brass laid out in the weather for months. Water (dew/rain) wicks in around the primer and evenually causes corrosion. The corrosion "welds" the primer to the case.
I saw this frequently when I shot 38cal in the rain. Just threw the empties in a five gallon bucket. The next year when I tried to reload this brass, I experienced the same problem. Sometimes the decap pin would pierce the primer. Sometimes the back of the primer cup would tear off and leave the remainder of the primer welded in the primer pocket. Washing the brass and letting it sit for awhile before depriming could cause problems too. I deprime all range pickups with a Lee tool before I wash it in Lemishine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2011 7:40:50 AM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Privi definitely has some issues as far as depriming/reloading. But I think the key here is when the OP revealed the brass laid out in the weather for months. Water (dew/rain) wicks in around the primer and evenually causes corrosion. The corrosion "welds" the primer to the case. I saw this frequently when I shot 38cal in the rain. Just threw the empties in a five gallon bucket. The next year when I tried to reload this brass, I experienced the same problem. Sometimes the decap pin would pierce the primer. Sometimes the back of the primer cup would tear off and leave the remainder of the primer welded in the primer pocket. Washing the brass and letting it sit for awhile before depriming could cause problems too. I deprime all range pickups with a Lee tool before I wash it in Lemishine. That wasn't the case with the brass in the photo. It was newly fired - like Fired 2-3 weeks ago, picked right up and had the primer issue. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2011 6:47:05 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. Are we talking all PPU cases or just the M193? I have some of the 69gr and 75gr match brass that I have saved and now I am wondering if it is going to be a PITA??? I'm talking all of the PPU brass I have. Just use a little lube, you can thank me later.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2011 7:47:04 AM EDT
[#32]
I've only had that happen on a few occasion with PPU 9mm brass other than that it's not been a problem. I love PPU brass 9mm,X39,54r and 303. As dryflash3 mention the flash holes are smaller in most foreign made brass they measure there's in millimeters not inches,so the standard decapping pin will be larger than the flash hole. Sometime they can be slightly off center as well
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2011 4:49:33 PM EDT
[#33]
I've got Privi brass left over from from their 75 grain match .223 loads. Either this stuff is laoded super weak,
or it's really good brass. The primers come out pretty easy, and resizing is VERY easy... almost like it doesn't need resizing.  I like that brass.
I also have some PMC bronze brass from plinking ammo... that stuff have some SERIOUS crimps and sealant. Very tough on the decapping pin (I use a Lee universal... so it curb stomps fussy crimped primers), and I had one of these cases with an off center flash hole that wrecked the entire zip spindle/expander ball/decap pin on a set of Hornady dies.  Resizing it isn't too bad though.... not as tough as LC 556.
-ZA |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/13/2011 6:42:25 AM EDT
[#34]
I have once-fired PRVI brass from their 55grain M193 loadings - and I have had no issues with it. I lube and full-length size on a Hornady progressive, but I have had no primer issues that I can recall.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/13/2011 3:42:09 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Man... I've decapped a buttload of the PPU and/or PRVI brass with that Red Super Glue primer sealant and have NEVER had an issue other than the primer not punching free of the brass on occasion.
+1 using redding small base die +1 For using Lyman universal decaping die |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/13/2011 7:02:24 PM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
Quoted:
PPU has a small flashole, and a serious crimp on the primer. This is what worked for me learned by trial and error, Use a Lee universal decapping die and lube the decapping pin every other case. I put a little case sizing lube on my finger (Imperial) to lube the decapping pin. The decapping pin is swaging the flashole larger as it is depriming, the lube helps keep the decapping pin from pulling out of the stem. Also eases the swaging process so you don't have to reef as hard on the press handle, which keeps you from pushing the decapping pin through the primer. Next reload will go easy as the flashole was enlarged the first time case was decapped. Also works with IK brass. So you're telling me, I don't need to order a flash hole uniformer? It is already built into my decapping die?
I have a bunch of the primed privi brass I got from widners a couple years ago. I just started loading and shooting it. I hope it is not going to be a bitch. Brett Correct. Just be sure to lube the decapping pin. Or you will learn the hard way, like I did. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
