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11/24/2017 4:44:23 PM
11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 10/13/2004 7:49:11 PM EST
I'm looking at getting a THOMPSON SEMI-AUTOMATIC CARBINE 45 ACP. I don't know much about them. Other than they are 13lbs and look cool. I want a shooter. So can some of you fill me in on what I should or should not get. And what they are worth. Are the ones made buy Kahr any good? What about the ones that have the side charging handle?
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 8:40:41 PM EST
You are lucky for even bieng able to buy one. We can't here in CT. I do remember holding one at a gunshop before our ban when I was a little F. The thing was massive, but i loved it.

Don't get M1. Get the one with the forward grip and standard barrel w/comp.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 9:37:19 PM EST
I was looking at the ones with the strait fore arm. I have a hard time getting used to guns with a fore grip. But maybe I could have two fore arms one with & w/out grip. And swap them around. I need some more info....
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 10:34:12 PM EST

Originally Posted By PhatForrest:
You are lucky for even bieng able to buy one. We can't here in CT. I do remember holding one at a gunshop before our ban when I was a little F. The thing was massive, but i loved it.

Don't get M1. Get the one with the forward grip and standard barrel w/comp.



You beat me to the "enjoy the free state, I'm stuck in CT" post


Personally, I'd get the straight forearm.

- BG
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 4:18:26 AM EST
There are a few that make the 1928. Kahr seems to be the leader right now. They are heavy and complicated on the inside.
The CDI (chicks dig it) factor is way up there though.
I've seen 'em go for around $700-750
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 5:02:47 AM EST
OK here goes.

I have a S/A 1927A1 West Hurley Thompson and Kahr Arms M1 Thompson. Like em both. However if I were to stick to one I`d buy the 1927A1, just personal preference.

Here`s why;
1. Cutts Compensator (CC)helps to keep the muzzle down during rapid fire.
2. I like the front fore grip (FFG)on the 1927A1 but the horizontal grip (HG) looks ok too. On the M1 the FFG looks weird.
3. The 1927A1 is easier to charge because the cocking handle is on the top. The M1`s is on the side. The M1 gets a little easier if/when you buy the extended cocking handle. Forget what you saw in Kelly`s Heroes as the S/A guns have heavy springs and cannot be charged a easily as the F/A. And its best to charge them with the non-firing hand.
4. Don`t get a light weight as I heard that they wear out fast. Besides it only saves you a pound or two anayway.
5. Last and probably the most important. The 1927A1 is designed to mirror the 1921 and 1928 Thompson`s and it has the ability to use the 50 and 100rd drums, as well as the 20 and 30rd stick mags. The S/A M1 mirrors the F/A M1 and it doesn`t use the drum. The drum was dump for a number of reasons mostly due to being too expensive to manufacture and throw away. Also with the AWB gone the price of new 50rd drums isn`t too bad from Kahr Arms $284 compared to preban 50rd drums for $500 + depending on who made it.

That being said the M1 is a lot of fun too. If I ws stuck to one (Thank the 2nd I`m not) I`d choose the 1927A1.

After all this there is a few things you should know about the S/A Tommy Guns as well.

1. Most important thing that most overlook; Stick to 230gr BALL ammo. As semi/wadcutters and HP`s will hang up, and light loads won`t cycle the guns properly.
2. Watch the small parts. The guns are heavy but the small parts tend to go in them. On my `27 I had to replace my Firing Pin Retaining Pin and have my CC torqued on. On my M1 I had to locktight the rear sight.

Not saying the it`ll definatly happen to you but it might. Also this is after a few THOUSAND rounds, I have about 8500 and counting on my 27 and about 3000 on my M1.

Buy one find out what it likes to eat and enjoy!
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 8:30:24 AM EST
Also always wear eye protection with them ! Especially if your a Lefty !
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 10:29:54 AM EST
Been looking around on the web and the 1927A1 West Hurley Thompson is looking pretty good. Where can one of those 100rd drums be had for it?
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 11:23:47 AM EST
Here's some more info:

There were only TWO makers of the Auto-Ordnance semi-auto firearms....Numrich Arms/Gun Parts Corporation, and now Kahr Arms, who bought the design from Numrich.

All the other "Thompson" guns are "look-alikes" that only vaguely look like a Thompson.
These other guns ARE NOT Thompson guns, and are made of stamped sheet metal.
For the most part, these guns run more to the "junk" side of quality.

The Auto-Ordnance as made by Numrich and now Kahr is made of solid milled steel and walnut.

You will get a variety of opinion on the Quality of the Numrich versus the Kahr. Various people say one or the other is better, or worse quality.

The M1 version of the Thompson is a semi-auto version of the later WWII M1 Thompson submachine gun.
The 1927-A1 is a version of the original Models 1921 and 1928 Thompson gun as used by gangsters, cops, Feds, and early WWII British commandos and American forces.

The M1 will accept ONLY 20 or 30 round box mags, has a fixed peep rear sight, no cooling rings on the barrel, and no Cutts Compensator muzzle brake.

The 1927-A1 has an adjustable rear sight, which is NOT adjustable for windage like the original sights, will accept 20 or 30 round box mags, and the 50 and 100 round drums. (Note: The 100 round drum was designed for the early 1921 gun which had a MUCH higher rate of fire. Due to this, many 100 round drums WILL NOT function reliably in the 1928 full-auto OR the semi-auto guns).

The 1927-A1 also has the cooling ring barrel, the original Cutts Compensator, and the top-mounted cocking handle.

Both models use many original WWII era 1928 and M1 full-auto parts.

Original full-auto magazines can be used, BUT, you have to either modify the magazine slightly, OR replace the semi-auto magazine catch with a full-auto catch.
To modify the magazines involves filing the mag catch hole SLIGHTLY higher.

There are adapter plates that can be installed on the semi-auto guns that allow them to accept a full-auto 1928 detachable butt stock.

Many people complain about the semi-auto's weight, reliability, and long barrel, and trigger pull.

The gun is made like the original of massive, milled steel receiver and trigger group. The gun is HEAVY, just like the original. Those movies you see where people are swinging around Thomspon's are made with rubber guns. Milled steel and walnut are heavy.

The reliability problems are almost always traced to worn-out or defective military surplus magazines, or magazines that were improperly modified to fit the semi-auto gun.

The long barrel is a factor of Federal law.

The trigger pull weight is made necessary by the design which makes it difficult to alter it to full-auto. The trigger pull CAN be lightened and smoothed.

If you approach the Semi-auto Thompson as what it IS, a civilian-legal replica of a full auto collectors item, it makes sense.

What it ISN'T is a light-weight modern assault weapon, a target rifle, or a hunting rifle.

Look at it like one of the current replicas of a Winchester or Henry lever rifle: a legal, shooting version of a historic firearm.
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 9:24:23 PM EST
Go to machinegunbooks.com it is all about thompsons, the guys on that sight are good people.
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 11:09:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By jhc:
Go to machinegunbooks.com it is all about thompsons, the guys on that sight are good people.



WOW that is a cool site. Thx!!
Link Posted: 10/15/2004 1:45:47 AM EST
The above site is very good and you will find many posts about the semi-auto not working correctly.

Thats a lot of $$$ to pay for an item that is only going to frustrate you.
Link Posted: 10/15/2004 3:48:40 AM EST
faris does Kahr Arms sell this adaptor plate? And why weren`t the 1927A1`s just made with the detachable stock?

That`s one thing I`ll never understand about S/A 1927A1`s.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 6:11:57 AM EST
I had the M1 version and sold it after about 100 rounds. To much hassle to cock the thing. My friend has two full auto M1's and you can cock them with one finger. For a fun gun I'd look else where.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 9:51:39 AM EST
The extended bolt handle does a world of difference for the S/A M1 Thompson.
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 5:39:05 PM EST
Dumb question: Did the AWB ending affect the ability to buy a Thompson with the "correct length" WW2 style barrel, rather than the as-of-late longer barrels?

Thanks

Link Posted: 10/18/2004 7:57:35 PM EST
Well I picked up a S/A 1927A1 West Hurley Thompson on trade for me Desert Eagle.
Link Posted: 10/19/2004 5:15:27 AM EST
Frankenpez no the S/A Thompsons were not really effected by the AWB, with the exception of the 50rd drums. The NFA of 34 dictated that rifles have a minimum barrel length of 16inches.

RS_Coyote Congrats on your new Thompson and Good Luck with it!
Link Posted: 10/22/2004 10:28:48 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/22/2004 10:30:08 AM EST by BuLLet]
Just picked up the 1927-a1 deluxe today. Nice looking gun, heavy of course, but appears to be well made. I found the take down a bit confusing. You have to depress this rear pin then upper/lower begin to slide apart then get stuck again. You then need a screw driver to depress the same pin again near where the safety is before the two halves complety seperate. I'll be shooting this weekend and can't wait. :)

Anyone know where I can get some of the semi-auto 30 round stick mags? Perhaps even a drum?

Just to add... I paid $884 delivered for it!
Link Posted: 10/24/2004 9:30:47 AM EST
I fired one last year. It was purchased by a guy I know, and he was able to find an unfired, NIB specimen from the 70s (estate sale). The entire rear sight assembly fell off after about forty rounds, and the compenstor starting unscrewing. I was not impressed and am glad it wasn't my money.
Link Posted: 10/25/2004 5:54:56 AM EST

Originally Posted By BuLLet:
Just picked up the 1927-a1 deluxe today. Nice looking gun, heavy of course, but appears to be well made. I found the take down a bit confusing. You have to depress this rear pin then upper/lower begin to slide apart then get stuck again. You then need a screw driver to depress the same pin again near where the safety is before the two halves complety seperate. I'll be shooting this weekend and can't wait. :)

Anyone know where I can get some of the semi-auto 30 round stick mags? Perhaps even a drum?

Just to add... I paid $884 delivered for it!



I found mags at Tapco and What A Country...
Link Posted: 10/25/2004 11:51:53 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/26/2004 4:23:51 AM EST
Lovely collection indeed.
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