Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Posted: 7/12/2008 7:47:07 AM EDT
What if you dont have access to a sand blaster? I want to refinish one of my rifles but I dont have a blaster. Is there something else I can do? Sand paper and elbow grease?
Link Posted: 7/12/2008 9:19:11 AM EDT
Easy, here's what you do.

Reach into your back pocket, go online and buy a plane ticket to madison, Wisconsin. Bring it to my house and I will blast it for you FREE OF CHARGE.

Ok, barring the ability to fly... yeah sandpaper and a lot of patience.
Link Posted: 7/12/2008 6:25:22 PM EDT
Do i need to sand all of the bluing off or just get it really scuffed up?
Link Posted: 7/12/2008 6:57:10 PM EDT
well, I use 160 grit aluminum oxide to blast with, and I dont stop til I see gray on everything. The paint needs something to stick to. What kind of firearm is it?
Link Posted: 7/12/2008 7:15:56 PM EDT
sand it really well with 220 grit paper and you should be fine. It wont take much to get the bluing off.
Link Posted: 7/12/2008 11:33:02 PM EDT
Its just my 30-30. I am not looking for a show finish because it sees a lot of brush. However, I dont want to have to redo it after every hunting trip either.
Link Posted: 7/13/2008 6:19:15 AM EDT
are you going to krylon it or put a more durable finish on it? If just krylon, I would just degrease and spray it. Krylon will wear off no matter what you do, so dont ruin the bluing if you dont have to.
Link Posted: 7/13/2008 8:39:42 AM EDT
Yes I plan to use Krylon. I am thinking of just doing a camo job on the wood only and maybe doing a flat color on the rest. It should be easier to touch it up that way.
Link Posted: 7/13/2008 9:29:07 AM EDT
I agree with East KY, I wouldn't bother sanding. Just degrease.
Link Posted: 7/14/2008 1:39:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Unique1:
well, I use 160 grit aluminum oxide to blast with, and I dont stop til I see gray on everything. The paint needs something to stick to. What kind of firearm is it?

You strip the anodizing off? I did that on a EOTech upper and I can dent it now with my fingernail!

I hope you are joking!

Link Posted: 7/14/2008 3:05:44 PM EDT
I think hes talking about other finishes, not Ano, I do the same, nice and silver, then paint right away.
Link Posted: 7/14/2008 3:19:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 5:24:53 PM EDT by Unique1]

Originally Posted By Tite_Shot_VA:

Originally Posted By Unique1:
well, I use 160 grit aluminum oxide to blast with, and I dont stop til I see gray on everything. The paint needs something to stick to. What kind of firearm is it?

You strip the anodizing off? I did that on a EOTech upper and I can dent it now with my fingernail!

I hope you are joking!


Of course I'm not joking.

Lauer teaches to take the gun down to bare metal. EVERY gun.

The guy I worked with (taught me), he strips EVERY gun.

He's painted over 400+ guns in the last five years.

NEVER had one come back with a complaint on dent-able metal. Not one.

And... he paints for a LOT of SWAT teams LEO's and Nuke plant Security teams.

Those guys can be very particular how their guns look/operate.

I'm not being cocky, just haven't had that situation arise. Yet.
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 6:18:44 PM EDT
Hope you all don't mind me jumping in with a question. I have a Para Ord P16-40 with a factory crappy finish. Hoppe's flakes it off when I'm cleaning it. I bought a can of Brownells Baking Lacquer in hopes of trying to make it look decent (tired of listening to the comments of other shooters) Is it worth/harder to use sandpaper or should I get a blasting unit? I'm in law enforcement and I can't keep the pistol down for to long. I would like to get it done on vacation. Thanks for the help.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 7:57:33 AM EDT
I'm of the theory if you're going to do the job, do it right.

Buy the blaster, if they have a Harbor freight in your area, there ya go.

You won't regret taking it down to nothing and blasting, then spraying. The job you have when done, outstanding!

Email me if you have any questions.

Link Posted: 7/20/2008 10:17:20 AM EDT
Questions? Are you kidding? Of course I have questions. I'm not what you would call a functionally illiterate but I really have no idea just what I'm doing. I do know that after looking at the great pictures on the forums and reading the comments it shouldn't be that hard. Besides the finish on my Para is really torn up at the present time. I thought I would start with a magazine or an old .22 or something else just in case I screwed it up I could hide in the back of the safe. To answer your question Yes there is a Harbor Freight in the area. I have a gift card that needs to be used also. What do I need? I have a 22 gal. 5hp compresser from Harbor Freight can it be used? I also have nothing but time on my hands so there is hardly any problems except getting down and doing it. Thanks for the help.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 5:15:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 5:22:46 PM EDT by Unique1]
Spray cans are a great way to start. But if you want to make a lasting impression, Duracoat is it. IMHO

A good spray gun is one that works best in your hands.

HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure

That means it puts out a fair amount of paint at a fairly low pressure. And that means more paint goes on the firearm, and less in the air (as overspray). Less overspray as you know means less runs and drips (mistakes).

I bought mine through Harbor Freight. ALL my equipment comes from there. Go online and check out Harbor Freight

A decent HVLP spray gun through them runs anywhere from $25-50. Doesn't have to be a lot. Get a smaller touchup gun. They work great. Just make sure to try it out on cardboard before you try it on a gun. Make sure it sprays VERY lightly.

Harbor Freight also makes a really great Blast Cabinet. Check out their website and see if they have coupons on any of it before you buy. My cabinet only cost me about $200.00

A decent compressor. If I had my dream compressor, it would be a two-stage compressor. 10 horse or larger. Alas, I don't.

Mine is about 6 horse, capable of pressures of 120-125. Yours should be fine.

125 is max my blaster can take. If you buy too small of a compressor you have to take more time to blast. If you dont take breaks to let the tank fill up, you'll burn out your compressor motor. And that is not cool. $$$$$

The blaster I bought is red and is a standup cabinet (Har Frght). That is the one you want.

So far I've bought three paint guns. My favorite is the small one (.8mm).

Don't forget there are other things you need. A few you could get from Lauer.

Plugs for the holes (barrels). Also a good set of measuring spoons.

Also, lacquer thinner for cleaning your paint gun and tools. ( any cheap hardware store)

Mineral spirits for cleaning goo from the stencils off your firearm. Won't hurt fairly fresh paint. (hardware store)

Alligator clips to hold all the small parts as you blast them, and paint them. (harbor freight). Also small dowels for holding some items, scope rings, etc..

Mechanics wire to hold larger parts as you paint them, and let them dry. (HF) Or what I've found that works better is wire for electric fence.

Aluminum Oxide - 160 grit. Can find you a name of manufacture. if you need. 50lbs

A GOOD degreaser.

Other than that, a LOT of patience. With a rattle can, you really dont take things all the way apart. With Duracoat, I disassemble my firearms down to the last nut and bolt.

If you blast everything, degrease, and blow off, then paint. And have NO water in your compressor lines.. what you paint will last many lifetimes. Many. Did I mention degrease enough? No. Degrease until you think you've done it enough, than do it again...

Just got home from painting 3 rifles and a pistol. might take some pics when they're done. It's really not that hard. One of the guns I painted today was my daughters .22 savage. SHE did most of the work. Even some of the painting. She's 14 and talented. I will post her pics of her tiger Stripe when it's done.

Buy a mask, and use it. I have one, but didnt use it today, tired and buzzed. Not a good combo. Daughter was wearing the mask...

Top Top