I've been reading the threads in here for a while now, and the more I think about it the more I want a Garand!

Now the grade...  I want a shooter, plain and simple.  This is not going to be a safe queen at all, and I don't really care much about the stock as long as it doesn't have a gaping crack in it.  She will be taken to the range many times and be well fed.

I'm hearing these will do on average 2-3 MOA at 100 yards.  What about out to 400 and 500 yards, I know the cartridge can do it, but is the gun going to do it?  Whats the max range on these things?

And lastly, I live about 4 hours from the North store in Ohio.  Is it mandatory that I go and pick one out for myself?  I know absolutely nothing about Garands right now.  If I went today I would only be able to pick out a pretty one that doesn't have pits at the muzzle.  If I did go, would a salesperson be there to help me pick one out?

Service Grade/

Max

Service Grade is usually good.   If you want to spend some $$ get the correct grade, they are really really nice.

Is it mandatory to go to the north store?  No.  But it is fun.

I have picked up two, and mail ordered 2.   I have not been disappointed either way.

I went there.  It's neat, but if I were you, I wouldn't drive the four hours.  I was driving by anyway.  Personally, I'm not that picky that I thought there was night and day diferences between the same grade guns.  They were all well placed and well graded.  But I'm no pro gun buyer.

When I do go to buy mine, I will wait until I'm driving by again, I go from the Detroit area to Cleveland and back fairly often, so it's not out of the way.

CL,

For what you specify that you want....     SERVICE GRADE.

Best regards,
Swampy

Garands forever

Yep -- service grade.  

Now these rifle won't shoot teeny-tiny groups all day, but you should be able to shoot 5-gallon bucket size groups at 400-500 yards all day long with good ammo.  

Get the rifle, a bunch of ammo and SHOOT the dang thing  !    Don't worry about "groups" -- just get the feel of the rifle and SHOOT ! ! !  

You'll never learn anything just "lookin" at the rifle and a case of ammo.  Take it out and SHOOT -- and shoot often  ! !

You'll be amazed on how easy these things "run" and how your groups will improve after you get the feel of the rifle.

Truly amazing . . . .

Service grade!!!!!!!!!

+1 to service grade.  I had my International Harvester out last weekend and it was running about 1.5 MOA with Danish surplus (great stuff, almost out though ).

The rack grades are a real roll of the dice. Some, like mine, were just the pick of the litter and were not typical of what I've seen from CMP.

Most of the rack grades have very poor wood as their primary drawback. Even a "shot out" garand barrel will still give you "minute of 5-gallon bucket" out a few hundred yards. Good 'nuff for guvmn't work like he said. So, don't worry as much about that. However, I've seen rack grade wood that looked like it had been at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean for 100 years...so I think the other advice you got here about paying the extra money for a service grade is solid.

What you see below is a Greek Rack Grade. NOT typical for other Greek Rack Grades I've seen, but they ARE out there...

I tend to agree with Service Grade for your first, that is exactly what I went with and could not be any happier...

*ETA*
I wish my Greek Rack Grade looked as good as longhorn 789's !!!!!!!!!!

Not trying to hijack your thread, but are there any manufacturers' that are noted to have a little more accuracy than others?  Without going collector grade, what manufacturers are more desirable to have?  Preferred model?  Or if there such a thing as going 'new' and getting a good accurate shooter?

blueheeler66: Going to a higher grade may not get you a better gun, because they are for collectors that have correct parts and/or serial numbers and maybe better wood, double check with the CMP on this though.

I have bought nothing but USGI rack'ers. I love them.

Just remember, you can buy new wood for less than $100.  So its not terrible if your wood is bad.  I would keep the wood that comes with it though (since that is part of its history).  Just build a second set of wood for show/shooting.

I bought 2 Field grade USGI Springfield and couldn't be happier.  I won't post the pictures again, because I'm sure everyone is sick of seeing me post them by now.

Steve L.

Is a IH more desirable than a Springfield or are there some more desirable than others?

Quoted: Is a IH more desirable than a Springfield or are there some more desirable than others?

There are more Springfield's than any other Garand manufacturer, so it's not that they are LESS desirable, it's just that there's more of them.  That being said, a complete and correct IHC is generally worth more than a complete and correct SA.  I wouldn't scoff at owning either of them, of course, and in true ARFCOM fashion you should seek to get both .

Springfield Armory- made the vast majority of Garands and are tops on quality.  These are all that the CMP has in stock at this time.

Winchester- made some(2 contracts- 1 WWII & 1 Postwar)) but, are known for rougher machining. Those tend to sell for a premium due to the Winchester name.

Harrington and Richardson- made a number starting in the 50's. Known for good quality. Fewer than SA or WIN. Usually have not gone through a war, may be in less beaten condition. Many barrels were made by LMR

IHC- Made the fewest garands of any manufacturer. A lot of factory rifles were assembled with SA parts since IHC had some serious issues tooling up. Many barrels were made by LMR. These sell for a premium due to scarcity. They also had a few different variations on their stamping on the heel and are sub-collected by some. You'll hear reference to Gap Letter, Postage Stamp, Arrow head, etc.

HTH

Blitx

+1 RIGHT ON BANKER BILLY!