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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/17/2002 4:49:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/17/2002 4:51:50 PM EST by slt223]
Can someone eplease explain to me how a two stage differs from a standard trigger. What are they two stages, and how do they improve the trigger feel? Thanks.
Link Posted: 1/17/2002 5:03:48 PM EST
This is a great question.. I have been wondering the same thing but didnt take the time to post it.. Hopefully someone will answer it that knows..
Link Posted: 1/17/2002 5:27:40 PM EST
IIRC, two-stage triggers were orginally developed as a safety device for recruits.

In modern service rifle competition, you are required to have a trigger that can lift 4.5 pounds. This is pretty heavy for demanding target work. In a two-stage trigger, you can divide the weight between the two stages.

A two stage trigger ic commonly found in most older military rifles (M1 Garands, M14, 03, 1917, 98K etc). Basically you pull the first stage (2 to 4 lbs in competition) and the trigger will come to a definite stop. You can hold the trigger at this point for a long,long time. When the conditions are right, you take up the final amount and the shot breaks. Two stage triggers are famous for the break-like-a-glass-rod feel obtainable on the second stage. Since the weight required to finally break the shot is not too much, the net effect is a very light felt trigger pull.

Link Posted: 1/18/2002 7:53:10 PM EST
alright now are any of the 2 stage triggers better than the other.......
Link Posted: 1/18/2002 8:57:22 PM EST
I have a Jewell and find it to be quite satisfactory.
Link Posted: 1/19/2002 6:17:27 AM EST
How do you feel about getting the factory trigger worked down by a gunsmith to whatever # pull you like??
I had my Win70 worked down to 2# pull. $35 versus $100+ for another trigger assembly. Figure I might wanna have the same done with my AR. Whucha think??
Link Posted: 1/19/2002 12:25:05 PM EST

Originally Posted By varmitgun:
alright now are any of the 2 stage triggers better than the other.......

I think there are three basic styles, the KM( RRA, Stoner, Armalite), the CLE (Bushmaster) and the Jewell. The CLE's www.compasslake.com work well, but have a habit of changing weight. I like the Jewells. The premier is supposed to be the KM, but they take some tinkering to set up correctly. I just bought a RRA, so the jury is still out, but the it is probably the best for the money. Tommy Haskins at Georgia Precision (Board Sponsor) www.georgiaprecision.com has great prices on triggers and might have some used ones as well.

ORF: Reworking a GI trigger isn't really much of an option but it is possible. One of the problems is because of the surface-hardened contact points. However, if you want a good single stage, check out the www.accuracyspeaks.com

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