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Posted: 10/10/2007 5:47:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/10/2007 5:48:16 PM EST by mrushing76]
I’m looking to get a suppressor soon and I'm curious as to what will fit my SBR. It’s an AR-15 10.25” YHM upper with what seems to be 1-1/8” from the end of the barrel to the gas block (It’s hard to tell with the flash suppressor on, but its 2-7/8” from gas block to end of YHM phantom flash suppressor). The inside diameter of the handguard is 1-3/4”. I assume the barrel threads will be standard. I would like a quick detach if possible, and would like it to recess as close to the gas block as possible. I would really appreciate any advice...I know you Gun Gurus can handle this!http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/mrushing76/DSC00456.jpghttp://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/mrushing76/DSC00458.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/mrushing76/DSC00459.jpg



Link Posted: 10/11/2007 7:25:59 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 9:46:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/11/2007 9:47:34 AM EST by JohnnyEgo]

Originally Posted By BookHound:
So you want the can to go UNDER that rail? I wouldn't do it just because of the extra heat.

A fast-attach can using a flash suppressor should work fine, but won't mount the can under the handguard.

The barrel should have standard .5x28 threads.

Which can? Depends on what you want to do really. Cans from most of the major manufacturers should work just fine.

Mark



Mark - keep in mind the YHM has a much larger ID then any of the other railed forearms out there. A lot of 9mm folks use them because they will clear the OD of most 9mm cans. My personal preference is the Daniel Defense for a 9mm SBR, which has a large enough ID to clear my Evo. So many cans will fit under the hand guard, although it may still be a bad idea.

Mark brings up an excellent point in regards to the heat generated by a .223 can. May not be the best of ideas. However, if you are set on it, several folks make .223 cans with an OD of approximately 1.5", including OPS and AAC. If you want a can that is going to backspace over the barrel, you could go with the OPS line or Surefire, although I am not certain you'd have enough room in front of the gas block for either can. You'd probably need at least an 11.5" barrel and a lo pro gas block, which doesn't consume as much barrel real estate as a conventional FSB.

With your barrel length, I'd be looking at a fast attach can that mounts over a proprietary flash hider, such as the AAC M4 2000, or one with a collar that doesn't take up as much room behind the flash hider, like the Gemtech Halo.
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 1:14:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/11/2007 1:18:31 PM EST by mrushing76]
Yeah I was looking at the Advanced Armament M4-2000 and the Gemtech Halo, but I don't know how far back the go from the end of the barrel (I've got a max of 1-1/8" til I hit the gas block)? I would really like to know what the total recess of the halo or 2000 is with the proprietary flash hider or collar is? The gas block is only about 3/8" inside the end of the handguard so the suppressor wouldn't be in very much.
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 1:29:54 PM EST

Originally Posted By mrushing76:
Yeah I was looking at the Advanced Armament M4-2000 and the Gemtech Halo, but I don't know how far back the go from the end of the barrel (I've got a max of 1-1/8" til I hit the gas block)? I would really like to know what the total recess of the halo or 2000 is with the proprietary flash hider or collar is? The gas block is only about 3/8" inside the end of the handguard so the suppressor wouldn't be in very much.


If you buy a new M4-2000 you will not be able to cover up the rear of the suppressor, the locking mechanism must be accessible to remove the can. However, if you buy an M4-1000, you can cover the rear of the can like this.


I had to modify my Troy forearm to do this.
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 1:42:10 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/11/2007 1:42:55 PM EST by mrushing76]
That looks nice! How far does it recess past the end of the barrel and what is the ID of your handguard?
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 1:49:29 PM EST
It sets inside the forearm about 3/16 of an inch.

I opened up the front of the Troy forearms ID to 1.620, if I recall correctly.

You can see the shiny aluminum ring inside the forearm where I milled it.
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 2:00:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/11/2007 2:06:05 PM EST by mrushing76]
That is about as far in as it can go in mine...but what is the total length from the barrel (inside the hider) to the back end of the suppressor or hider which ever is recessed more. I love the price of the 1000!
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 2:28:04 PM EST
If I understand you correctly, you are worried that the FH will hit your gas block.

In your original post, you stated that you have an 1-1/8 from the end of the barrel to the front of the gas block. If this is true, you have nothing to worry about.

The AAC FH for the M4-1000, once theaded on the barrel, will cover only 1/8" of the unthreaded tip of the barrel. When the silencer is attached it will only cover the FH, it will not thread past the back of the FH.

I hope this helps.
Link Posted: 10/11/2007 4:03:37 PM EST
yeah...that was what I was looking for...thanks so much guys! Now I just have to come up with the money!!! It will be a Spring project.
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