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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 6/26/2003 9:26:37 AM EDT
I just ordered one of these with the camo stock any pointers?? Good rifles?? basically what is the low down on these things.

Thanks in advance
Link Posted: 6/26/2003 9:58:58 AM EDT
In general they're good .The barrel is not chrome lined though but, not a biggy if you keep it clean.
Most guys install USGI parts for longevity reasons as there has been problems with the commercial parts.
It also has a lifetime warranty as you probably already know,which is a good thing to have.
The synthetic stock should hold up very well although I'm partial to nice walnut.I do have a supermatch with a McMillan fiberglass stock on it.
You may also find that the bush rifle makes an excellent deer hunting rifle.
Link Posted: 6/26/2003 11:17:37 AM EDT
Pretty much what shepherd said. Love mine. The more parts that aren't stamped SA the better...TRW, WRA and HRA stamps are parts from the sixties which means they are forged. SA stamped parts may not be. Also, get an M14 combo tool and order a forged extractor from Fulton Armory and replace the one in your gun. SA is using cast extractors now. You can tell because they have a fine, sandy texture...forged ones are smooth.
Link Posted: 6/27/2003 3:15:19 PM EDT
Hopefully the camo paint will stay on better than the black paint on the Scout Squad rifle.

If the rifle comes with a rubber butt pad get a M14 buttplate and pry off and discard the piece of rubber. Makes the stock an inch and a half too long and doesn't allow use of the butt trap where you can carry cleaning equipment.

If the rifle comes with a muzzle brake you'll need a pair of "castle nut" pliers so you can remove the it and put on the M14 flash supressor (or the new Vortex). You'll need to grind off the bayonet lug if you use a genuing M14 flash supressor so you can get the gas cylinder plug out. The pliers are a good idea anyway just in case you need to remove the muzzle device.

There are some genuine SA marked M14 parts which were made by the real Springfield Armory, but not many.

The M14 and M1 extractor are the same part, so you may already have a spare. Installing the forged part is a good idea.

-- Chuck
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 9:49:25 AM EDT
so if i were to get an sa postban M1A i need to get the standars unit, i need to change all of the stamped parts to the older forged usgi ones, and be sure that i get a chrome lined usgi barrel...

can i get a new M1a with a chrome lined barrel?
the stock is no big deal, i will get a usgi, and cammo it, and the flash hider minus the bayo lug, where is a good place to find all of these parts
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 10:27:08 AM EDT
The best place for parts is from the CMP (www.cmp.com) under parts for sale. These are govt takedown parts and the prices are well below anybody else. Some parts won't be listed under M-14 but will be under M-1 for those that are identical (extractor, hammer, trigger which doesn't have auto ear, safety, etc). All parts won't be available. The complete trigger group for $35 is an excellent item. No more than two of each item per year per person. On the other hand, if you have tons of money and just want to pauperize yourself, send me your money or Fulton Armory.
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 3:41:14 PM EDT
i am ojk with replacing all of the trigger group ect with usgi to get some longevity, but what about the bolt, and related parts, does that need to be replaced too?, and how can i be sure that i get a chrome lined barrel on a new rifle
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 4:04:08 PM EDT
Most of the postban std rifles will have a chrome lined barrel.This is easy to check by looking at the barrel under the hand gaurd near the receiver.

These chrome lined barrels are marked Winchester,SAK,TRW,SA or H&R with the following federal stock number 7790190 and a date like 6-69,5-66,etc.

The commercial Spfld Inc.bolts seem to be blowing apart so a USGI bolt is a must.If the bolt is a little tight on headspace,it can be lapped in untill headspace is correct.

This can be done by a gunsmith familiar with these rifles.Be sure to use all USGI parts on the USGI bolt for trouble free shooting.I hear that trigger groups are an option as some people have had good luck with the commercial ones.

As far as the op-rod goes,try the commercial one.If it works well,then put it to good use and wear it out before changing to a USGI.
Link Posted: 7/7/2003 6:59:14 PM EDT
The Springfield is a fine rifle and no parts need to be changed unless you feel the need. it. I have several, some with all commercial parts and have not had a problem at all. It seems all the guys with GI parts for sale denounce the Springfield cast parts. Look if I charged you over $200 bucks for a GI bolt when I bought it for $15 I would want you to change it out also. What a huge profit margin.

There has been one case on the boards where a bolt cracked at the right lug, it did not blow apart. What happened? Who knows unless an independent test is done. Could be many causes other than a bad part. The parts all have to meet a set standard for strength and durability. The cast parts do just fine.
Link Posted: 7/7/2003 8:15:06 PM EDT
If you bought the rifle new, it comes with a lifetime warranty. If anything should go wrong, Springfield will repair it. As far as Springfield parts go, I've got 3 M1A's - a Super Match with USGI parts, a standard with mostly commercial parts and a PolyTech M14S. The standard M1A is the one that I shoot the most and I haven't had a lick of trouble with their parts.
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 1:47:39 AM EDT
I have the same rifle. I turned mine into a scout though. I wanted a scout orriginally, but I also wanted the flash suppressor. I love it, its been nothing but fun for me so far. I've put about 1200 rounds trough it since I got it last November, and haven't had any problems. Just keep it in a fairly dry area, and oil it up.
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 5:44:49 AM EDT
I did the opposite: turned a Scout Squad rifle into a Bush! I originally fitted a standard M14 flash supressor. Since changed to the Vortex. US-marked, Crane NWS model.

When equipped with the muzzle brake or M14 supressor the rifle required a tall front sight; when equipped with the Vortex the standard M14 front sight works perfectly. I'm not sure why, my T26E1 (7.62mm M1 Tanker) uses the standard M1 front sight.

-- Chuck
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 5:35:49 PM EDT
For those who are interested.Spfld Inc. has announced a recall on their cast and forged (junk) bolts due to bolts blowing up on people.

Those bolts are made in Tiawan as well as the other cast parts.Some of the markings on the bolts include 7790186 SA RRR,790186 SA RR.

This has been posted on BattleRifles.com
These markings include most bolts used by Spfld inc. I would suggest checking with Spfld Inc. on this matter directly.

I have done warranty work for Spfld in the past on the last bolt recall and will be checking with them again on this one.

As I find out more I'll post it here.As I said in a previous post,the ARMY has no more bolts.For this reason and this reason only,the prices will go up on USGI bolts because of the shortage.

Just like anything else when the demand is high and inventory is low,prices always go up.The bad thing is,there's nothing anybody can do about it.

One should also ask themselves if their life is worth more than the cheap soft junk being made by Tiawan.
Link Posted: 7/13/2003 8:09:14 AM EDT
Shepard, How much are you charging for GI bolts?? I had one of the bolts mentioned and it did not explode. It was undersized at the rear and would not always reset the hammer. It was changed with another cast bolt and now works fine.
Link Posted: 7/17/2003 5:50:17 PM EDT
Ya i hear the cast bolts suck bad.
Link Posted: 7/17/2003 11:19:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/18/2003 12:01:52 AM EDT by shephard]

Originally Posted By TUBBY:
The Springfield is a fine rifle and no parts need to be changed unless you feel the need. it. I have several, some with all commercial parts and have not had a problem at all. It seems all the guys with GI parts for sale denounce the Springfield cast parts. Look if I charged you over $200 bucks for a GI bolt when I bought it for $15 I would want you to change it out also. What a huge profit margin.

There has been one case on the boards where a bolt cracked at the right lug, it did not blow apart. What happened? Who knows unless an independent test is done. Could be many causes other than a bad part. The parts all have to meet a set standard for strength and durability. The cast parts do just fine.




Above you mention people buying M14 bolts for $15.00 and selling for $200.00 QUOTE-WHAT A HUGE PROFIT MARGIN.

First of all I'm not selling bolts right now untill I see what other companies start selling them for.

Second, I'VE NEVER BOUGHT M14 BOLTS FOR $15.00 AND SELL FOR $200.00 EITHER.I know that you didn't mention my name but perhaps you should be more clear who is doing this.I'd like to know myself.

Many post have been made regarding problems with Spfld cast (junk) parts which ARE made in TAIWAN.However,some people may have no problems at all.I for one never said EVERYONE had problems.Just so everyone knows for the record.

Also just for the record,I NEVER TELL PEOPLE (and never have) TO CHANGE OVER TO USGI PARTS.I DO RECOMEND CHANGING THAT SOFT BOLT (due to the recall only).YOUR LIFE IS WORTH MORE THAN $1000.00 LET ALONE $200.00

Anyone who knows how the market works knows also that supply and demand dictates prices not any 1 person.

Another note worth mentioning here is this.I don't sell at prices the other guys do.Am I an exception to the rule?? You bet I am.

Now,If you're talking about Fulton Armory,Armcorp,Spfld Inc. Smith,then that's a different story because they charge more than anyone.Of course it's up to each person what they pay and who they buy from.It's a right they have.

One last thing worth mentioning here is this.SOME PEOPLE ARE STARTING TO CHARGE $125.00-$150.00 JUST FOR A STRIPPED BOLT.I for one will not.However,I will choose who I sell to.If someone was to accuse me of gouging people on price I'd tell them to try to find it cheaper somewhere else.

I for one always beleived in "If it's not broke don't fix it".Unless of course you know there's a problem with a part that could take your life.Life is short enough already and I would like more days to ride my Harley, go fishing,and play my Gibson Les Paul.
Link Posted: 7/18/2003 3:31:07 PM EDT
so what will you be charging for a bolt
Link Posted: 7/18/2003 5:56:06 PM EDT

Originally Posted By avengeusa:
so what will you be charging for a bolt




I can only assume you didn't read the entire message in my last reply to tubby.

I'M NOT SELLING BOLTS RIGHT NOW UNTILL I SEE WHAT OTHER COMPANIES ARE SELLING THEM FOR.

Here's a short list of the "OTHER GUYS prices BEFORE THE SHORTAGE.

Fulton Armory $199.95 (complete)
Smith $199.95 (complete)
Sarco $95.00 (stripped) $140.00 (complete)
Amherst-Depot $149.95 (complete-when available)
Springfield Inc. N/A
U.S.Armory $149.95 (complete-when available)

Of course this is only a partial list but it shows something interesting.They value your money more than you as a customer.

If these guys are raising prices due to the shortage of bolts just like others I've heard about,then expect to see $300.00 + real soon.

Here's my price list BEFORE THE SHORTAGE.
My price was for complete NOT STRIPPED bolts in excellent + condition.

H&R $80.00
66118 (Winchester) $80.00
SA $90.00
TRW $100.00

Since I'm posting this I'll add an update to the above (my price list).I may have found some bolts but I won't know for about a week.I've posted info. under "CMP IS OUT OF BOLTS" also.

When I find out about these other bolts I'll post update there.Everyone seems to be raising prices 50%-75%.Now that's pathetic (my opinion).It's my goal to raise prices by only 25%-35%.

I only have about 10 bolts that I've found so far but I need to sort more parts as they're all mixed in together.The parts I have were not sorted before I put them in the warehouse.

I may find another 100 bolts,maybe more.Sorting these parts is time consuming and I'm a 1 man operation.I'll say this.I won't sell for the same prices as the other guys.

Also,it's not my intention to upset anyone anywhere on this board.But I get questions about something already posted only to reiterate on this.

Please read the post before asking questions.If you have a question regarding something not posted,no problem.As always,I'll help anyway I can as I've done before.

I hope this helps everyone here and those who need help in the future. Thanks-Shephard
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