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11/9/2018 9:21:38 PM
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Link Posted: 11/7/2018 3:05:32 AM EST
Mine likes Gen3 PMAGs (all gens) as well as Lancers and Tango Down ARCs.
I don't have any aluminum mags to test.
Link Posted: 11/7/2018 7:55:10 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/7/2018 9:17:07 AM EST by SickMAK90]
What’s odd is gen 3 20 round and 40 round work but not 30s.
Link Posted: 11/8/2018 10:40:25 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/8/2018 10:41:04 AM EST by SickMAK90]


I still can’t figure out why thirty round gen 3 pmags won’t fit when the hammer isn’t cocked, but they don’t. Everything else I have seems to work fine.
Link Posted: 11/8/2018 10:49:31 AM EST
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Originally Posted By SickMAK90:
http://i66.tinypic.com/2lk380o.jpg

I still can’t figure out why thirty round gen 3 pmags won’t fit when the hammer isn’t cocked, but they don’t. Everything else I have seems to work fine.
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Hammer cocked, or bolt locked back?

Try 28 rounds instead of 30.
Link Posted: 11/8/2018 3:20:17 PM EST
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Originally Posted By RDTCU:

Hammer cocked, or bolt locked back?

Try 28 rounds instead of 30.
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If the hammer is cocked they go right in, they won’t go in if the hammer isn’t cocked, even when the mag is empty.

Gen 2 pmags and lancers worked fine, it dropped a GI mag halfway through also.
Link Posted: 11/10/2018 9:51:27 AM EST
I finally got into the bullpup game, I just bought a KSG and a RDB from the guide. Great prices!
Link Posted: 11/11/2018 9:09:41 AM EST
Quick question for you new RDB owners....

Living behind enemy lines in Marylandistan, rifles need to be >29 inch OAL. I know the RDB doesn't meet it, but a simple pin and weld muzzle break would fix that. How is muzzle device that comes with it attached? I believe I read somewhere that it has a jamb nut, so it should be relatively easy to remove. Yes or no? Also, is the barrel profile wide enough to accept a pin/weld job easily enough? Lastly, does anyone have a measure on the length to the shoulder of the threads on the barrel? How long of a muzzle device would I need? Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 11/11/2018 10:24:10 PM EST
I shot mine today with no issues.

After I got it home I noticed every screw was loose, all of them! Except the rail because I already used red loctite on those. The four screws on the top cover are critical, as they hold the rails in place. Now that I tightened every screw 30 round gen 3 pmags fit.

So far I’ve had no major issues but whomever assembled these things at keltec sucks.
Link Posted: Yesterday 9:41:56 PM EST
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Originally Posted By SickMAK90:
I shot mine today with no issues.

After I got it home I noticed every screw was loose, all of them! Except the rail because I already used red loctite on those. The four screws on the top cover are critical, as they hold the rails in place. Now that I tightened every screw 30 round gen 3 pmags fit.

So far I’ve had no major issues but whomever assembled these things at keltec sucks.
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Similar here, well sort of. My butt-pad screws came loose & needed loc-tite, which they apparently don't have in Florida since it's a problem on multiple KT guns. No further issues subsequently.
Link Posted: Yesterday 9:52:36 PM EST
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Originally Posted By cap6888:
Quick question for you new RDB owners....

Living behind enemy lines in Marylandistan, rifles need to be >29 inch OAL. I know the RDB doesn't meet it, but a simple pin and weld muzzle break would fix that. How is muzzle device that comes with it attached? I believe I read somewhere that it has a jamb nut, so it should be relatively easy to remove. Yes or no? Also, is the barrel profile wide enough to accept a pin/weld job easily enough? Lastly, does anyone have a measure on the length to the shoulder of the threads on the barrel? How long of a muzzle device would I need? Thanks in advance.
View Quote
On my 'standard' RDB, the distance from the buttpad to the front of the gas block is 23 inches. I believe that length is the same between the different models (it's kind of set by cocking handle travel). The RDB-S/survival is 26" OAL, so I think any of the longer fixed-brakes should work. The RDB-C says it's 30" and has a longer foregrip so the barrel isn't all ant-eater-ey
Link Posted: Yesterday 10:09:05 PM EST
I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality.
Link Posted: Yesterday 10:37:54 PM EST
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Originally Posted By SlimBlundt:
I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality.
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Can you point me to the facts about how those materials will likely warp in the cold? I would love to read them.
Link Posted: Yesterday 10:49:55 PM EST
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Originally Posted By SlimBlundt:
I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality.
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How does the frame rely on thin plastic? I've got my gun in front of me, and I'm just not seeing what you were seeing, I guess. Frame's basically an upside-down AK steel receiver shell with a plate welded across the rear. Not too much there to go wrong. If you mean the lower, it's got so many ribs on it that strength isn't my concern, but brittleness (simply because IIRC it's not fiber reinforced or anything, and the Nylon or Polyester will get brittle if you get it cold enough). It's no thinner than the new CZ BREN 2 lower, in that case (that gun's aluminum receiver on the other hand, is frighteningly thin in places), but that gun also has some fiber reinforcement that's reassuring. The RDB lower also seems to have a lot more metal molded inside it than we might think (each screw or pin port appears to be reinforced)

I banged, snagged, and dragged my gun through a series of obstacle-shooting courses in the mid-40s like a goober without hurting anything or having any issues, if that helps . There was another goober doing the same thing with his as well, also with no issues.

Speaking of; issues: the rough-edged steel sling clasps KT includes tear the absolute shit out of the gun, and if using the steel loops right behind the trigger guard, they tear the shit out of the softer sling clasps. After slinging the rifle single-point all day, I looked down & saw a layer of silvery powder from the clasps all over the side of the gun, lol. Gotta get me some of those wire-loop-tie thingies going forward. The gun slings well, though; short & flat-sided, with a muzzle that hangs down on single-point setups.
Link Posted: Yesterday 10:57:47 PM EST
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE:
Can you point me to the facts about how those materials will likely warp in the cold? I would love to read them.
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE:
Originally Posted By SlimBlundt:
I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality.
Can you point me to the facts about how those materials will likely warp in the cold? I would love to read them.
He has a point, but I wouldn't be swinging an M16A1 against a tree in sub-zero either. The polymers in the RDB could definitely be nicer, but the fact they don't melt despite how hot the handgaurd gets, tells me they are some sort of high-temp Nylon or polyamide, so probably perfectly fine for this role, and likely quite stable across human-survivable temps. The lack of fiber (I think) is just a symptom of budget pricing, and would help the gun handle wear and abuse a bit better, but again, I doubt it's the limiting factor anyway.

Thermal expansion between the steel upper and plastic lower is more likely to cause an issue with the fit of the takedown pins, which are crazy tight in most guns as-is. Lose a few thousandths across the length of the lower in cold weather and you might be needing a punch-set to take the gun apart. Takedown is an area I think the gun could maybe use some more development work in, though I think they are on the right track. Any time you have more than two locating pins for this sort of assembly (the lower has three) you are gonna have binding problems.
Link Posted: Today 8:47:39 AM EST
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Originally Posted By barnbwt:

On my 'standard' RDB, the distance from the buttpad to the front of the gas block is 23 inches. I believe that length is the same between the different models (it's kind of set by cocking handle travel). The RDB-S/survival is 26" OAL, so I think any of the longer fixed-brakes should work. The RDB-C says it's 30" and has a longer foregrip so the barrel isn't all ant-eater-ey
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Thanks!

Can you help me out with how the flash hider is attached? Is there a jamb nut holding it in place?
Link Posted: Today 10:21:15 AM EST
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Originally Posted By cap6888:

Thanks!

Can you help me out with how the flash hider is attached? Is there a jamb nut holding it in place?
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There is a jamb nut.

Link Posted: Today 10:42:39 AM EST
Awesome! Thanks!
Link Posted: Today 11:53:40 AM EST
What pin gets hot on the handguard? Is it hard to avoid?
Link Posted: Today 12:09:17 PM EST
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE:

Can you point me to the facts about how those materials will likely warp in the cold? I would love to read them.
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Well, since I no longer have the RDB and can’t hold it in front of me to take notes, no, I cannot. I will add, however, that one of the takedown pins wasn’t going in so I smacked it with the handle of a screwdriver and the head of the pin broke. That reinforced my reservations about the perceived quality of the materials being used. I took it apart and looked it over and thought, “yeah, I’m probably going to break this thing.”

I emailed Kel-Tec about a replacement pin and they mailed one to me, no questions asked.
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